Over heating

[1197sts]

Update: After my initial short test drives I wanted to take it on a long drive and give it a good test. I drove about 4 hours, highway speeds, large hills, pretty high ambient temps. The temp did fine, never budging from its normal position and the coolant level remained stable. Then the next morning while idling in my garage, the radiator sprung a big leak right at the seam where the plastic and metal are joined together. Possibly the radiator was my issue all along. I was pretty lucky it didn't blow out in the middle of nowhere.

[Stelcom66]

Yea really - it sprung a leak at the best time. I believe you did or were going to order a radiator. Amazing it didn't blow out during the drive.

I know we're talking apples-oranges - but in the early 90s I replaced the radiator in my 1985 GL 4WD that was overheating. That was a lot easier than the one in my truck since the Subaru was a 5 speed manual and didn't have lines from the transmission through it like the truck did. 

[tylertrend]

I replaced the radiator today along with new coolant and flushed the system. The old radiator was full of sludge and crap but the car runs great now and the temps are right where they should be. Problem Solved! Hope everyone else can find success.

[mikestrick1]

New radiator and it runs around 185 all the time now. Thanks for the suggestions. I've never saw a radiator stop up as fast as my old one did.

[Monacle-Pete]

Hey everyone, I can really use your help. I'm at a loss for what to try next. So I posted a few weeks ago about my 2009 Subaru Forster antifreeze bubbling into the overflow tank but never fully returning back into the radiator after the engine cools down. I had rebuilt it in May 2018 and used FelPro gaskets. Was running fine until I noticed the antifreeze issue and the overflow reservoir being always full. So I pulled my engine Labor day weekend (last weekend) and replaced the head gaskets (I did see where it was blowing the exhaust gases into my cooling system. Put everything back together per all the specs. So after putting it all back together and putting the engine back into the car, it wouldn't start. Kinda sounded like it was sometimes trying to start and sometimes almost like a mild backfire. Thinking I screwed up the timing I put a compression gauge on cylinder 1 and finding TDC and that my timing was set correctly. Both heads as well as the crankshaft were set correctly. I checked compression on all 4 cylinders, all good. Thinking I screwed something up I pulled it again yesterday (Saturday). Replaced all of the gaskets with new ones (MLS Subaru head gaskets) and verified TDC with the heads off. I checked the heads and pistons to see if maybe they made contact or even possibly the valves were bent. All looked good and no issues found. Put it all back together and put the engine back into the car. Put everything else back on and tried to start it. Same thing as before. Some times sounds like it is going to catch and sometimes a mild "poof" but not starting. I checked the coil and the spark plugs. All plugs are getting a spark and working. All cylinders are getting fuel. I pulled each plug after cranking to verify gas was present. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm at a loss as to what to do next. Thanks!

[GeneralDisorder]

You don't time a Subaru at TDC. You time it off the timing marks.

GD

[Monacle-Pete]

I used TDC to make sure I had cylinder 1. I put the timing marks in the correct positions and then put the timing belt on.

[el_freddo]

9 hours ago, Monacle-Pete said:

I used TDC to make sure I had cylinder 1. I put the timing marks in the correct positions and then put the timing belt on.

??? 

Thats old school thinking with a distributor. TDC doesn’t matter with the cam belt fitment. In fact, the pistons are halfway down the cylinders when the crank timing mark is set properly. This ensures the timing belt is installed correctly in terms of crank position 

If you use any other mark to align the crank you’ve got it wrong. 

And if you’re using the arrow on the cam wheel that’s wrong too. You need to use the small line on the rim of the cam wheel on either side. One side will be free of valve spring tension, the other side will be held by/have spring tension acting on it. 

All the beat with it, I’m sure your issue is that the Cam belt timing/alignment isn’t correct. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Monacle-Pete]

Hi Bennie,

Thanks for the information. I feel it is a timing issue also but I've followed the steps in the manual while setting the cams and crankshaft before putting the timing belt on (see attached picture). The metal cam gear (driver side) is under tension and the plastic cam gear (passenger side) is not.

Paul

[nvu]

You have compression, it's not likely timing belt issue.  Spark and fuel are there.  Next thing to check are your cam and crank sensors.  Check all hoses on intake are plugged in. 

On older engines, unplugging the maf will force the ecu to limp mode.  It should fire up even with no intake installed.  Not sure if newer cars still do this.

[1 Lucky Texan]

is this a DBW - I missed what car this is but, on older cars, you must make sure the IACV hose is connected.

[Monacle-Pete]

Thanks NVU, I will double check them again.

1 Lucky Texan, it is a 2009 Subaru Forester X Limited 2.5 non turbo

[Monacle-Pete]

NVU, I double checked all of the connectors and hoses on the engine and intake manifold. All are tight. I ordered two new camshaft position sensors and a new crankshaft sensor to be safe. I also ordered two Variable Valve Timing solenoids because mine were looking a bit shady. They will be arriving on Thursday.

[nvu]

Also you mentioned you pulled the engine to do the headwork.  When you put everything back, those big super junction connectors, take them off and inspect every pin on both ends.  Make sure none are bent/broken.  Other things to check:

grounds, rule out a bad ground, run a thick copper wire from the battery negative post to any bolt top center of the engine block. 

the fuel lines aren't installed reverse

coil wires, pull out the boots and look at the connectors, do they clamp the plugs tightly.  check with a used plug laying around

Have you tried starting the car with a freshly charged battery, or jumper cabled to another running car?

[Monacle-Pete]

NVU, thank you for that info.

I will double check the big connector.

I do have a thick copper ground wire connected to the engine and I cleaned the end before reconnecting it.

Fuel lines are correct. I had them labeled but I will double check.

I will check the coil wires and I have an extra boot laying around.

Battery is freshly charged and when I was cranking I put the battery charger on boost (100A) so as not to run the battery down.

Thank you for your help with this, I do appreciate it very much!

 

[el_freddo]

22 hours ago, Monacle-Pete said:

Hi Bennie,

Thanks for the information. I feel it is a timing issue also but I've followed the steps in the manual while setting the cams and crankshaft before putting the timing belt on (see attached picture). The metal cam gear (driver side) is under tension and the plastic cam gear (passenger side) is not.

Paul

That alignment looks bang on Paul. 

Ive not heard of cam or crank sensors going bad. They’re just coiled copper wire wrapped around a magnet, they’re sealed pretty tight and there really isn’t much to go wrong with them (they also make good cruise control speed sensors for after market units!). 

Are the cam and crank sensors plugged in correctly/fully? 

I like NVU’s suggestion of the super junction plug pins. Although I’ve not heard of this being an issue it could be worth the 10-15 minutes to rule them out. 

Any codes from the ECU to share? 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Monacle-Pete]

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions. Well this turned out to be kinda strange. The problem is solved. I used the diagram in a Chilton manual for cylinder to coil connections, however, that diagram is wrong. Bennie, thank you! You set me on the path to check and recheck everything and that is how I came across the problem with the plug wires going to the wrong connections on the coil. Once I connected them properly it started right up! Thanks again! I appreciate all the help and suggestions!