laegion Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 (edited) I'm looking at a possible need to change my radiator. I'm just wondering what direct fit (or with very minor mods) radiator options there are for 1995 Legacy L, with an auto? Edited August 27, 2020 by laegion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 I've installed a few all metal radiators, including side tanks. I have a 2 OPL aluminum radiators I'm very happy with. 01 Impreza and 06 Forester. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Just get a stock replacement Koyo brand radiator. Hoses from Subaru. A 95 Legacy doesn't need anything special - don't overthink the situation and buy a $300 aluminium racing radiator for a $200 car. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said: Just get a stock replacement Koyo brand radiator. Hoses from Subaru. A 95 Legacy doesn't need anything special - don't overthink the situation and buy a $300 aluminium racing radiator for a $200 car. GD It's nothing to do with performance...I just don't want plastic because plastic side tanks don't last like aluminum. And btw; thanks for insulting my car. I don't need platitudes. I asked for advice on radiators that would fit and are all metal. Edited August 28, 2020 by laegion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Just now, laegion said: It's nothing to do with performance...I just don't want plastic because plastic side tanks don't last like aluminum. They last 10 years. That's the life span of a plastic radiator. You really think this 95 Legacy that is 25 years old will be on the road when it's 35 years old. Even if it is, a Koyo plastic radiator is about $100 so that's $10 a year. Why would you bother with spending more? And no one makes an aluminum radiator for that chassis. Last time I had one custom made for an impossible application the cost was around $850. Been a few years and metals have gone up. Probably be $1k now. Just get a stock radiator and stop over thinking it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 9 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said: They last 10 years. That's the life span of a plastic radiator. You really think this 95 Legacy that is 25 years old will be on the road when it's 35 years old. Even if it is, a Koyo plastic radiator is about $100 so that's $10 a year. Why would you bother with spending more? And no one makes an aluminum radiator for that chassis. Last time I had one custom made for an impossible application the cost was around $850. Been a few years and metals have gone up. Probably be $1k now. Just get a stock radiator and stop over thinking it. GD How about you just don't reply to my post if you're gonna be a jerk? There are plenty of 80's Subies running around...so why wouldn't I think that. Not everyone thinks of their car in terms of resale value; or how soon they can get a new one. I'm not going to have anyone make a custom radiator; but it doesn't mean there isn't one that can't be fit with minor mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, laegion said: How about you just don't reply to my post if you're gonna be a jerk? There are plenty of 80's Subies running around...so why wouldn't I think that. Not everyone thinks of their car in terms of resale value; or how soon they can get a new one. I'm not going to have anyone make a custom radiator; but it doesn't mean there isn't one that can't be fit with minor mods. I am what I am. And I'll reply if my greater experience and knowledge can save you from being stupid and wasting time, energy, and money on stupid ideas. Which this most certainly is. I get it - I have racing radiators in my Legacy Sport Sedan, and my Trans Am, and we install them on virtually every build we do. I routinely build 500 AWHP Subaru's. I own a performance shop with an AWD DynoJet. I am more than qualified to HELP YOU make the right decisions. Get it? Did you bother to notice my post count here? Trust me - you don't need to modify anything and compromise the very well designed cooling system on your car. JUST DON'T DO IT. For the record. I'm not insulting anything. It's just the facts. A 95 Legacy, at this time in history RIGHT NOW, is worth..... virtually nothing. Someday it might go up a bit..... probably not as it's not really an Iconic car of the era like the Brat was for the 80's. It's just a plain old Legacy. It has a current KBB trade in value of $700 and private party is about $1500. In the grand scheme of things..... GD Edited August 28, 2020 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 10 hours ago, laegion said: How about you just don't reply to my post if you're gonna be a jerk? There are plenty of 80's Subies running around...so why wouldn't I think that. Not everyone thinks of their car in terms of resale value; or how soon they can get a new one. I'm not going to have anyone make a custom radiator; but it doesn't mean there isn't one that can't be fit with minor mods. GD is straight to the point. hear him out, take notes, and listen to or not listen to him. Most of the time he is more right about Subaru's than anyone else you'll find online. He's like a bunch of us, and owned and knows all about $200 Subaru's. I promise he's not judging you, he's just been around hundreds or thousands of them and knows most people don't spend that much to maintain them or waste time upgrading, turbo charging or other wishful thinking type initiatives. if you're an outlier, and want to put forth the time and effort, then no big deal, he's not forcing you to do anything. Just move on to the next reply. I'd recommend aftermarket too, they're cheap, last a really long time, and aren't prone to damage unless the car is being constantly beat at which point i'm not sure i'd want to install a more expensive aluminum. I get it - i've looked into aluminum before too - it's a lot of time figuring what works, fabrication, etc - time that in the long run is better spent on other issues you'll encounter in the next 10 years. In general it's not common to install aluminum radiators in that era. 95-98 legacy radiators should all be the same - you can do a parts search online and see what vehicles a 95 radiator fits. that might help expand what you're looking for as you search for the closest fit you can find. The fan mounts, lower legs, and radiator hose locations and diameters change over time and are the parts that require modifications if you find one that physically fits in the location. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said: I am what I am. And I'll reply if my greater experience and knowledge can save you from being stupid and wasting time, energy, and money on stupid ideas. Which this most certainly is. I get it - I have racing radiators in my Legacy Sport Sedan, and my Trans Am, and we install them on virtually every build we do. I routinely build 500 AWHP Subaru's. I own a performance shop with an AWD DynoJet. I am more than qualified to HELP YOU make the right decisions. Get it? Did you bother to notice my post count here? Trust me - you don't need to modify anything and compromise the very well designed cooling system on your car. JUST DON'T DO IT. For the record. I'm not insulting anything. It's just the facts. A 95 Legacy, at this time in history RIGHT NOW, is worth..... virtually nothing. Someday it might go up a bit..... probably not as it's not really an Iconic car of the era like the Brat was for the 80's. It's just a plain old Legacy. It has a current KBB trade in value of $700 and private party is about $1500. In the grand scheme of things..... GD I'm happy for your post count! I've also owned a 1984 Trans Am WS6, 1989 Firebird, 1982 Z28, 1994 K2500 Silverado, 1966 VW Beetle, 1968 VW Beetle, 1988 Celica Alltrac Turbo, 1984 Vandura 2500, 1976 Datsun 620, 1993 Probe GT, 1984 Suzuki SJ410, 1988 Yamaha FZR400, 2001 Yamaha TW200, 1984 Polaris 250 4x4....etc. etc. I've worked on all of them and done engine and transmission swaps on half of them... I didn't come here for anyone's high handed advice. I simply asked what, all aluminum radiators, might fit this chassis with minimum modifications. Blast your inferiority complex all over someone else's post. I'm only interested in having my specific question answered. If you can't offer an answer go annoy someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, idosubaru said: GD is straight to the point. hear him out, take notes, and listen to or not listen to him. Most of the time he is more right about Subaru's than anyone else you'll find online. He's like a bunch of us, and owned and knows all about $200 Subaru's. I promise he's not judging you, he's just been around hundreds or thousands of them and knows most people don't spend that much to maintain them or waste time upgrading, turbo charging or other wishful thinking type initiatives. if you're an outlier, and want to put forth the time and effort, then no big deal, he's not forcing you to do anything. Just move on to the next reply. I'd recommend aftermarket too, they're cheap, last a really long time, and aren't prone to damage unless the car is being constantly beat at which point i'm not sure i'd want to install a more expensive aluminum. I get it - i've looked into aluminum before too - it's a lot of time figuring what works, fabrication, etc - time that in the long run is better spent on other issues you'll encounter in the next 10 years. In general it's not common to install aluminum radiators in that era. 95-98 legacy radiators should all be the same - you can do a parts search online and see what vehicles a 95 radiator fits. that might help expand what you're looking for as you search for the closest fit you can find. The fan mounts, lower legs, and radiator hose locations and diameters change over time and are the parts that require modifications if you find one that physically fits in the location. I may go with aftermarket...that's not the point. I asked a question. You all are assuming a lot about my level of knowledge and expertise...I didn't ask for anyone's advice on how to or how not to modify or spend money on MY car. I asked a simple question...if you don't have an answer or don't want to answer that question...move on to the next post. I've already done an engine swap, '99 outback struts, roof rack and lots of other work on this car. What I do and don't deem worthy of spending on it is my business. Edited August 28, 2020 by laegion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 15 hours ago, lmdew said: I've installed a few all metal radiators, including side tanks. I have a 2 OPL aluminum radiators I'm very happy with. 01 Impreza and 06 Forester. Looks like a lot of modification work for my car unfortunately...I was looking at the radiator made for the 90-94 Turbo but I read on another post that it's taller and uses a different radiator support. I really don't want to cut and weld on the sheet metal; but I don't mind modifying or making new brackets... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 That's all we can do is assume. It's the internet. Regardless of your level of experience or expertise, it doesn't change the fact that it's a stupid idea to modify the perfectly functional cooling system on a 95 Legacy. There IS an all metal radiator that will fit that chassis. It's not aluminium - which is what you asked for and doesn't exist. But you can figure it out. Seems that you have plenty of experience and don't need our advise. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 52 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said: That's all we can do is assume. It's the internet. Regardless of your level of experience or expertise, it doesn't change the fact that it's a stupid idea to modify the perfectly functional cooling system on a 95 Legacy. There IS an all metal radiator that will fit that chassis. It's not aluminium - which is what you asked for and doesn't exist. But you can figure it out. Seems that you have plenty of experience and don't need our advise. GD You apparently don't understand the difference between advice and information. I asked for information. What would you know about my cooling needs? You didn't bother to ask, when, where or how I drive my Legacy or for that matter even ask what motor I have in it. You just assume I'm a newb, and that I only drive to the grocery store for prune juice and granola. Not that it matters. I clearly asked for information, not advice. I hope you don't treat your customers with this same level of disdain...you clearly have a lack of customer service expertise and a raging inferiority complex. I didn't sign up for this site to be preached to about how my car is worthless and doesn't warrant modification. That's my determination to make...not yours. I could care less what it bluebooks for, I happen to like it and plan on fixing it and driving it regardless of if hipsters take a liking to the model and increase it's resale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 If it's been done, it's not widely known or public so you'll have to do a little more legwork. That's why I gave you what I know about converting and retrofitting Subaru radiators. You won't find a highly visible or well known answer to your question so you'll need to do some legwork to find any. Predominantly new users ask the wrong questions and frequently are working on misdiagnosis or wrong assumptions, so we need to get to a point of understanding quickly or it's just a waste of time. We are experienced Subaru people and it wastes less time getting straight to the point. And we got there. You want aluminum and not just because your cousins friend suggested it as is normally the case. This isn't a big deal. Take the advice that's helpful and move on from the rest. It's a bit over the top to think anyone's objective goal or care is even remotely related to how you spend your money or what you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 I treat all bad ideas - customer or no - with disdain. And if they don't like it they know where the door is. My reviews would suggest that in the *vast majority of cases*. my expertise is appreciated. Complex? I have no time for such foolishness. I have answers and I solve problems. That's what I do professionally - for several decades now. It doesn't matter what engine is in there unless it's not a Subaru engine - in which case you wouldn't be here because you would have already figured this out on your own or paid someone to fabricate a proper cooling system designed to cool whatever the swap may be. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Good god. Ease up Laegion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, idosubaru said: If it's been done, it's not widely known or public so you'll have to do a little more legwork. That's why I gave you what I know about converting and retrofitting Subaru radiators. You won't find a highly visible or well known answer to your question so you'll need to do some legwork to find any. Predominantly new users ask the wrong questions and frequently are working on misdiagnosis or wrong assumptions, so we need to get to a point of understanding quickly or it's just a waste of time. We are experienced Subaru people and it wastes less time getting straight to the point. And we got there. You want aluminum and not just because your cousins friend suggested it as is normally the case. This isn't a big deal. Take the advice that's helpful and move on from the rest. It's a bit over the top to think anyone's objective goal or care is even remotely related to how you spend your money or what you do. It seems to me that it would be a mistake to assume that new users are also new to Subarus or cars in general; rather than that they had never needed or wanted to register previously. I'm just trying to avoid plastic end tanks because they are the most common failure point on a radiator. If it's more efficient then so much the better. It doesn't look like there is anything wrong with mine yet; it was a false alarm. No it didn't overeat; and no; I'm not mis-diagnosing a combustion to coolant head gasket leak as a radiator. I actually have a combustion gas tester for coolant and the head gaskets were replaced about 30k ago when I put in the other engine. I just thought I had coolant seeping from a side tank seal...but it's my bleed port washer. Either way; I'm still interested in an upgrade as it would be nice especially for transmission cooling when on slow steep uphill climbs with a car fully loaded with camping gear. Do people commonly use secondary transmission coolers with 4eat transmissions? or maybe upgrading cooling fans? Edited August 28, 2020 by laegion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 1 hour ago, laegion said: Do people commonly use secondary transmission coolers with 4eat transmissions? or maybe upgrading cooling fans? One thing to consider on the tranny cooler is winter driving. The tranny will delay shifting into 4th and lockup when cold to warm up the engine quicker. It uses its own heat and heat from the radiator to warm up the fluid so it can shift sooner. In the summer climbing hills it might be a good thing. If you hook one up, I would keep the oil flow through the radiator. Our 95 RHD Legacy wagon AWD 4EAT (476k miles mail car) the original radiator lost the fins between the tubes on the lower third of the radiator. On the aftermarket replacement after a few years the upper hose plastic tube started to crack around the tube where the clamp was. The next one has been in a lot of years and is fine. The OE radiator fans have one 4 and one 5 blade units. I replaced the 4 blade with a 5 blade and motor. I think the 4 blade is the Main Fan and the 5 blade is the Sub Fan. The 5 blade is listed under A/C parts on RockAuto. I just looked and they show 5 blades on both fan assembly's. ? I order three of those (for spares) and then swap one of the motor and fan to the old 4 blade shroud. They move a lot of air. In case you don't know about this there are two green test connectors under the steering wheel. You have to remove the panel. Connect them, turn the key to ON (no start) and the ECU will run the fuel pump, solenoids, ac compressor clutch and then both fans on low speed, then high speed then off and repeat the cycle until you turn the key OFF. Good way to see if both speeds are working on both fans. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) The stock cooling fans move more air than most of the aftermarket stuff unless you step up to Spal or Derale, etc. Been through this too many times on the WRX's and STI's. The stock fans are superior than any of the aftermarket offerings. I have had STI's overheat because some idiot put on aftermarket fans that looked really flash but couldn't move enough air. External transmission cooler is highly recommended for towing. If you aren't towing then don't bother. The 4EAT's typically last 250k+ at which point you huck them over the fence and install a used one. GD Edited August 28, 2020 by GeneralDisorder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 (edited) 38 minutes ago, Rampage said: One thing to consider on the tranny cooler is winter driving. The tranny will delay shifting into 4th and lockup when cold to warm up the engine quicker. It uses its own heat and heat from the radiator to warm up the fluid so it can shift sooner. In the summer climbing hills it might be a good thing. If you hook one up, I would keep the oil flow through the radiator. Our 95 RHD Legacy wagon AWD 4EAT (476k miles mail car) the original radiator lost the fins between the tubes on the lower third of the radiator. On the aftermarket replacement after a few years the upper hose plastic tube started to crack around the tube where the clamp was. The next one has been in a lot of years and is fine. The OE radiator fans have one 4 and one 5 blade units. I replaced the 4 blade with a 5 blade and motor. I think the 4 blade is the Main Fan and the 5 blade is the Sub Fan. The 5 blade is listed under A/C parts on RockAuto. I just looked and they show 5 blades on both fan assembly's. ? I order three of those (for spares) and then swap one of the motor and fan to the old 4 blade shroud. They move a lot of air. In case you don't know about this there are two green test connectors under the steering wheel. You have to remove the panel. Connect them, turn the key to ON (no start) and the ECU will run the fuel pump, solenoids, ac compressor clutch and then both fans on low speed, then high speed then off and repeat the cycle until you turn the key OFF. Good way to see if both speeds are working on both fans. Yes; if I added an external cooler I'd definitely still leave it routed through the radiator. Thanks for the info. I'll look into the 5 blade vs. 4 blade fans. I didn't know that about the test connectors. I guess it's just something I haven't come across in my FSM with the stuff I've used it for so far. Thanks for the info. Edited August 29, 2020 by laegion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laegion Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 22 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said: The stock cooling fans move more air than most of the aftermarket stuff unless you step up to Spal or Derale, etc. Been through this too many times on the WRX's and STI's. The stock fans are superior than any of the aftermarket offerings. I have had STI's overheat because some idiot put on aftermarket fans that looked really flash but couldn't move enough air. External transmission cooler is highly recommended for towing. If you aren't towing then don't bother. The 4EAT's typically last 250k+ at which point you huck them over the fence and install a used one. GD I definitely don't intend to install pretty fans. I could care less what they look like. In my mind my Legacy is like a work truck, function is primary and looks are far down the list. I wouldn't install anything unless is was proven to give better cooling performance. Also, I did install a tow hitch, mostly for a bike rack but I do plan on towing a small utility trailer for dump runs, moving stuff and camping. So it's something I will look into. I mainly haven't because I didn't want to block any airflow through the condenser and radiator if it wasn't necessary for the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 (edited) Geez we’re not playing for sheep stations! That was hectic!! The four and five blade fan combo is to reduce/eliminate acoustic harmonics where the fans make that oscillating like sound. Having blades with a different number of fins achieves this. As for radiators. Pick something off the shelf that’s easy to fit. My EJ22 converted L series runs a dual core Nissan Pulsar radiator. Minor mods were done and now it’s a drop in setup. Works perfect for what I need in my climate variations. As for GD and his bedside manners, he’s about as good as a great doctor. Take the medicine/don’t take the medicine, it’s your call, but it’s what’ prescribed as much as it may be painful to hear. Try owning an L series and reading his thoughts on this “dead” platform (which for the engine I totally agree, otherwise I love it and parts are still around). So listen, take advice, ask appropriate questions etc, and try not to shoot from the mouth in anger/or when upset! Keyboard warriors always get caught out on this - just look at facestalk. Cheers Bennie Edited August 29, 2020 by el_freddo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I have a 95 aftermarket leggo radiator, new in box, has trans cooling connections. Yes it has the plastic sides. I paid $200 for it, would let it go for $50 plus shipping. Sold my 95 legacy a while back, was a great car, my last non interference engine and the first of the subaru line to have OBDII, a year before it was standard. I routinely change radiators before they fail, every 100k, just cheap insurance. Never had a problem with side tanks, but had a leak from a top tank once on an impreza. I have a 2002 EA4T with an external transmission cooler plus an inline mag filter in addition to the stock screw-on filter, that isn't routed through the radiator. All my towing is done with a manual gearbox. I figure a clutch is slightly easier (and far cheaper) to replace than a transmission, and I've done both. Sounds like you know your way around under the hood. Hope you stick around on this board. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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