Bobinbigsky Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Hello, I bought a 1990 Subaru Legacy 2.2 from an estate sale in Montana. Anyways the last time they changed the PCV valve it looks like they did not put any anti-seize on the threads. And yes it is seized. I have tried penetrating oil. I am using a deep 19MM socket. I can not get it to budge. I even put a box end wrench on the rachet for some leverage but nothing. I do not want to break it any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You in advance. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 Don’t lever on it. You need a quick punch to the spanner/breaker bar/whatever you’re using as this will break the hold on the threads. Alloy is good for holding steel. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 if you protect sensitive parts in the area, you could use a propane torch (the blue wrench!) to heat cycle it a coupla times. Maybe the last time, carefully spray it with PB Blaster or other penetrant . As it cools, it may pull some penetrant deeper in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 (edited) Another option is to spray the internals with copious amounts of cleaner and just clean the old one. PCVs aren’t typically cleaned and it’s not ideal but this might be a time to try it. They’re just a ball and spring so it’s not a big deal. I’ve cleaned them before, albeit out of the vehicle. it might be worth it here even if it’s just to get it drivable and heat cycle it a few times before trying any other solutions. Try to tighten it a very small amount - like 2 degrees, barely noticeable amount. Once you get it to move the key is to work it back and forth at very small ranges and let it cool. - like a 1/4 turn, or less, depending how bad it is. Loosen 1/4, tighten 1/4, repeat a few times then go have lunch to let it cool down. Repeat. Increase the amount you’re turning it depending how bad it feels. If it’s really tight go up to 1/2 a turn, if it’s loosening fast then go up to 1 or 2 full turns. Loosen tighten loosen tighten. Again give it cooling breaks, more and longer the tighter it is. The heating will encourage expanding and poorer metallurgic properties for easier shearing and stripping. Keep it from heating up. When removing stuck fasteners they can be way too hot to touch, smoking hot. The alumnin manifold won’t handle that much very well. Id guess (granted I can’t see it), you’re not putting as much torque on it as you think. The PCV threads are huge and not typically rusty like radiator hold done bolts and dan bolts that shear off left and right with torque. I can’t see it but if you’re using a short handle 3/8” socket it’s not that much leverage for the large diameter PCV threads. I don’t want to suggest going Hulk and destroying it but I’ve put some pretty big tools behind older PCV valves that are stuck in there from a quarter century. Edited October 17, 2020 by idosubaru 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 (edited) If you wanted to hack job around it, cut the PCV off with a cut off wheel and plumb a new one in line behind it with generic hoses and clamps. That would be pretty cool for novelty conversations and the “look at what I did” factor. Lol Or gut it and do the same. but that would be tricky to do without getting steel bits in the engine intake. Edited October 17, 2020 by idosubaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobinbigsky Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 Thank You for the suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 CRC makes a product called Freeze Off in a spray can. Most auto parts stores, even Walmart carries it. It is a light weight penetrating oil and cleaners with a freezing action. I have used it a few times and it works. It may have to be cleaned off and reapplied a few times to soak into the threads. Use a rag to catch the runoff of oil. Check it out here. https://www.crcindustries.com/products/freeze-off-174-super-penetrant-11-5-wt-oz-05002.html Working with electronics, I use a Freeze Spray (no residue) and it works like Freon freezing and shrinking anything it is sprayed onto. It can be sprayed inside the PCV Valve and at the base of it to shrink it. Then a light tap on the end of the wrench with a small hammer and it should loosen up. Then work it back and forth with Freeze-Off on the threads and it should come out. Another miracle in a spray can to keep in mind is Fluid Film. It is a lanolin based lubricant. I sprayed it around the center hole of the rear brake drums on our 97 Legacy one night and the next morning I pulled the drums off by hand. No hammering. https://www.fluid-film.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobinbigsky Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 Thanks for the answers guys. I will post back after I get it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Mine was a little tough to get out too. It felt a little like it may have been crossthreaded but it wasn't. Went in with a little difficulty and does not sink in all the way anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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