Dusty87 Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Cranks wont start I've replaced plugs wires distributor,rotor and ignition coil still nothing any suggestions and I had no spark prior to replacing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Burnt ignition Module? ... Burnt Fusible Links? Check out the fusible links at the small black Box over the coolant reservoir tank. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 check for power to the coil. Power to the ECU. Test before buying parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 On 12/13/2020 at 6:00 PM, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said: Burnt ignition Module? ... Burnt Fusible Links? Check out the fusible links at the small black Box over the coolant reservoir tank. Kind Regards. Expand Links are fine I had to replace one because of faulty alternator I will go through the list thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 What check engine codes are flashing? If the alt failed by overcharging - which the burnt link suggests - it may have damaged some other components as well. Overcharging alt took out my XT6 TCU two years ago, and fusible link and another smaller item or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 On 12/16/2020 at 6:14 PM, Dusty87 said: Links are fine I had to replace one because of faulty alternator I will go through the list thank you Expand Where is ignition module located Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 On 12/16/2020 at 8:21 PM, idosubaru said: What check engine codes are flashing? If the alt failed by overcharging - which the burnt link suggests - it may have damaged some other components as well. Overcharging alt took out my XT6 TCU two years ago, and fusible link and another smaller item or two. Expand No codes I haven't had it checked I thought the readers only were made for 95 models and up? And I replaced the link months ago but had 1 faulty alternator from orielys so had the 2nd tested beforehand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 To read the codes, remove the plastic panel under the driver side dash. Then locate the ECU. It is a grey or painted box bolted to the bottom of the steering column. There is a hole on the edge facing the driver. The red LED blinks the codes. Long blink is 10s place, short are 1s place. Key in run position, it blinks any current problems. It is a very simple system, so it doesn't know everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 On 12/17/2020 at 2:12 PM, DaveT said: To read the codes, remove the plastic panel under the driver side dash. Then locate the ECU. It is a grey or painted box bolted to the bottom of the steering column. There is a hole on the edge facing the driver. The red LED blinks the codes. Long blink is 10s place, short are 1s place. Key in run position, it blinks any current problems. It is a very simple system, so it doesn't know everything. Expand 7 blinks 1sec then 7 again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 That's the no code things are ok code. All trouble codes are 2 digit. The ECU doesn't know everything, so it is quite common to have failures it doesn't see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 On 12/17/2020 at 9:14 PM, DaveT said: That's the no code things are ok code. All trouble codes are 2 digit. The ECU doesn't know everything, so it is quite common to have failures it doesn't see. Expand I have no clue what to go for next any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Check that voltage is getting to the coil and the ECU. With a volt meter , key in run position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 On 12/17/2020 at 8:21 AM, Dusty87 said: Where is ignition module located Expand Inside the distributor. Is the electronic part that substituted the points, found on older distributors, it generates the spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 The part in the distributor is the timing sensor. It signals the ECU. The ECU fires a transistor on the coil bracket. The coil generates the spark when fired by the transistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 On 12/19/2020 at 4:51 AM, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said: Inside the distributor. Is the electronic part that substituted the points, found on older distributors, it generates the spark. Expand Would I half to take out the entire distributor to get to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 Rotor tries to turn but won't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 On 12/20/2020 at 7:30 PM, Dusty87 said: Rotor tries to turn but won't Expand Do you mean the rotor does not turn when cranking? That indicates broken timing belt/s. It won't turn far by hand,as it is connected to the entire engine's moving parts. You would break something if you try to turn the engine via the distributor shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 On 12/20/2020 at 7:11 PM, Dusty87 said: Would I half to take out the entire distributor to get to it? Expand Nope. On 12/20/2020 at 7:30 PM, Dusty87 said: Rotor tries to turn but won't Expand Broken timing belt for sure, unless you installed the wrong distributor or in a wrong way, when you swapped it. I would start by checking the Timing Belts and components, then the mere distributor itself. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty87 Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 On 12/20/2020 at 8:07 PM, DaveT said: Do you mean the rotor does not turn when cranking? That indicates broken timing belt/s. It won't turn far by hand,as it is connected to the entire engine's moving parts. You would break something if you try to turn the engine via the distributor shaft. Expand Yes when cranking sry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Take off the timing covers. When you need help with the belts there’s archives here. You’ll be ok , just follow instructions. Most people will guess it’s the belt on the drivers (left) side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Rotor not turning while cranking - first thing to check is the driver side timing belt. Replace both belts and all 3 idlers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Second thing to check (if the belt is good) is that the rotor button’s retainer screw is installed. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now