89Ru Posted February 8, 2023 Author Share Posted February 8, 2023 On 1/17/2023 at 5:40 PM, el_freddo said: Oil weeping always occurs with the cam retainer plate, especially if it’s not resealed when replacing HGs. Even then there’s no guarantee the leak won’t stay away for a great deal of time… I think a lot of the oil down under is due in part to a bad oil pan seal (done by po) and the drivers side head cam retainer plate (I call this a cam cover??) done by me. And yes I sealed it but looks like I need to rethink how I did it. I think the cam retainer-cover leak is getting oil all over the drivers side exhaust gasket. Valve covers are leaking a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted February 14, 2023 Author Share Posted February 14, 2023 Pulled the driver side head off. All the bolts creaked and some thread shavings on at least one bolt. Visible fluid trail on the cylinder walls of #2 and #4 at 6:00 (bottom of cylinder). Looks like oil and coolant mix. Same section of the head (bottom) is oil stained. Heads look different from when it was an obvious coolant leak (prior job). Exhaust valves were clean before, now they are carbonized/oily. Don't think its bad rings. Compression and leak down test was ok. Could be from the oil galleries? (low pressure) or from the oil high pressure side on top? (the high pressure section of the gasket looks suspect to me). I used subaru turbo multi level steel (mls) gaskets. Wondering about flatness of the block. Heads were decked previously. Going to clean the block and head with 3m 120 grit white abrasive disc. Waiting for a decent mech straight edge. I don't trust my old straight edge anymore for assessing the flatness of these surfaces, but there is light showing through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 Well the subie is finally running and NOT stalling What fixed the stalling? Not sure but possibly something in the throttle body. I did a JDM engine swap, long block only. Kept the original intake. Still stalling in hot weather. Put the JDM intake on it with the original injectors and new oem seals, and changed/swapped some other bits that were incompatible (fuel rail, intake harness, coolant crossover pipe temp tensor, passenger side AVLS solenoid assembly, airbox hose to the block next to the pcv, plus longer brake booster vacuum hose to get to the right hand drive fitting on the intake). jeepers, this is why everyone keeps their intake. No stalling. Its been about 3 weeks of driving, city/highway in 88+ degree weather. Unless the mech at subaru changed them, the only two unswapped parts are the throttle body and the EGR. Everything else on the intake was swapped at some point. I'm cautiously optimistic. And maybe the original long block is probably fine as a spare if the rear main seal and head gasket(s) are redone. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 I imagine this was already mentioned but I’ve seen some 2005+ vehicles have idling/stalling problems after having the battery disconnected for awhile. I assumed the ECU has some relearn procedure due to lost stored data. On 6/1/2024 at 6:39 PM, 89Ru said: Well the subie is finally running and NOT stalling What fixed the stalling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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