New member here.

[Wayne M.]

Hello. I’m searching for a place to learn about Subarus. 
I’ve never owned one, but worked on a few over the years, and have always been keen on certain models.
I do understand the basics and I love frameless doors. 
I’ve been picking up vibes along the way about dilution of the brand in recent years- vertical integration as they say- it’s happened to so many brands, and I understand it’s happened to Subaru too. 
What I’m really after is buying a good model for my Son as a first car. He’s not a WRX/STI guy- more of a wagon but dosent need to be a forester. I’m open to ideas about making a cool ride for him. 
I’m trying to learn about the various engines, transmissions and drive lines and their strengths/ weak spots, and what trouble spots are to look for when shopping.
I am a purist, and I want the most original DNA in a newer model. When I look under the back, I want to see that rear diff I’ve always seen and a proper boxer under the hood. Not a fan of CVTs. 
I am looking forward to learning the details from you all here. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

not sure when the framed windows came in but, probably around 2011 ?

 

You need to shop very carefully indeed if you're looking for a 10+ year-old car.

In a new thread, ask for a subaru friendly shop near Pittstowm. 2 reasons, you may need a mechanic to do a prepurchase inspection. You could also ask if they have a customer selling a car.

Edited January 1, 2021 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Wayne M.]

Thanks Texan, 

Im here primarily to learn about the platforms, engine families, and whats good and not so good. I know there is/ was a tango with Toyota possibly, and I was wondering what those models are. That’s my DNA reference. I can hear a Subie 500’ away sometimes and some subarus just don’t sound right. Was there a major change in engines at some point (I don’t think I’m hearing a 6 in an Impreza or smaller model. 
I would be my own mechanic in all this, so I’m just trying to graduate Subaru 101 to try to pick a good model. 
TIA! 

[1 Lucky Texan]

primary difference in sound is; 4 cyl NA, 4 cyl turbo (unequal length headers) and I guess the H6es. I LOVE how my WRX sounds with my Stromung muffler.

early DOHC 4cyl (90s - early oughts) have a poor reputation for internal HG leaks, later ones might seep externally. Most of thos cars have either been fixed now (using turbo gaskets) or scrapped. Problem with rebuilding one of those is, how hot/how often did it cook from overheating. A better choice for a project would be a later car that someone let the timing belt system fail. Likely get away with just head rebuilding. Of course, if you find a VERY straight body with any bad engine, dropping a used engine in(properly prepared) is another approach. Basically, just careful shopping.... You can check the 'sticky' posts at the top of each generation's Forum for the common issues.

[Wayne M.]

Thank You. 
That’s the idea- finding a hurt car and fixing it. I’m in the rust belt, so I’m also all ears about rust and rot problem spots. 
In my listings, I’m seeing plenty of 20 teen era Foresters. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

I think Foresters got the timing chain engines starting about 2012 or so, BTW, you can check that and other feature introductions at www.cars101.com , good info there.

some folks feel 2010 or so are the best Forries. I dunno

Edited January 3, 2021 by 1 Lucky Texan

[idosubaru]

A southern EJ22 swapped 1998 Forester or 96-99 Outback is the best for reliability and ease of maintenance. Buy one of those from the south and you won’t learn much because there won’t be much to do to it. That engine and 4EAT trans will run forever.

00-04 Outback and 99-04 Forester are a close second. They have head gasket issues that can be mitigated by a DIY mechanical person and have a perfectly reliable 100k with that same bullet proof 4EAT as the 90’s stuff.  

Those head gasket issues make them really easy to pick up cheap. Proper repair and you’re good for a reliable 100k.  

05+ is when degradations start but many are small and mostly annoyances. Drivetrain and stranding items like engine/trans is largely the same as 00-04. Same thing - get one cheap leaking oil and repair it properly for a reliable 100k. This is also when the annoying CANBUS system.  Not a big deal but can’t do engine swaps any more.

05-09 outback (forester years and shifted slightly but are less common so I’m less familiar) is basically the same on overall drivetrain like engine and trans. Same head gasket points, can still get the 4EAT  

This range Forester or Outback with EJ25 and 4EAT is probably your best bet for newer and predictable issues and maintenance.

Right around 2010+ starts to drift into CVTs, early FB engines with ring issues and oil consumption.  I would avoid those.

I usually recommend favoring 00-09 or getting as new as you can 2017+ to avoid 2011-2016 first iteration CVT and FB engines in Forester and Outback. But if you’re buying a low cost car needing work then sometimes that all goes out the window for a good deal.

Its not like they’re all blowing up - I just picked up a 2011 Forester for parts with 260,000 miles and it runs perfectly fine. Some of us here see too many Subaru’s and have the wherewithal to be picky. I get mine from the south or west to avoid rust....but I can’t expect family and friends I help to do the same.

 

Edited January 3, 2021 by idosubaru

[Wayne M.]

Thanks Idosubaru (and Texan), THATS precicely the info I’m looking for. 
I was on Amazon looking for a good general reference book and there was only one SA book that didn’t get very good reviews. Any advice on that? 
So I’m assuming the FB is the timing chain engine? 
I was on Rock auto last night throwing darts at random parts prices for a ‘11 Forester (I saw one on craigs) and I gotta say I liked what I saw. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Wayne, if you thought the car would be off road much, the Forester has better stock approach and departure angles. Of course, Outbacks and legacys can be lifted/modded......

[Wayne M.]

Texan, 

Not likely to be going off road, we have some nice county roads and it may turn into a bit of a corner carver.