tim414 Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 (edited) Hello. I have been wanting to ask Suburu owners their experiences with WRX and WRX STi. I'm looking to replace my work car and considering WRX. I have to drive a lot with my work. Are this cars expensive to maintain? Are they reliable? I know they require premium fuel and use more fuel than comparable models. I know their all wheel drive. Is that reliable? I narrowed down to WRX or Camry V6 <-----(better mileage, more HP and proven reliable, cheap to maintain) Thank you in advance ETA: I also wanted to say I'm impressed with WRX. I like HP, I like and know what all wheel drive does with performance, both in s sports car sense and all weather sense. The car is light for what it offers as well. Edited February 6, 2021 by tim414 add Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 Don't buy a turbo car for work. That's stupid. It's a sports car, not a Camry. Totally different vehicles. Do you need a sports car or a work car? That's the choice. And sounds like it should be an easy one. Subaru does make non-turbocharged cars that are much more targeted at the Camry market but with AWD if that's what you are looking for. But they no longer produce a V6, and neither does Honda so if you are looking for a reliable non turbo engine with V6 power, then the Camry is the ticket. And Toyota's tend to be more reliable than Subaru's anyway. Subaru's provide a niche product to enthusiasts looking for performance or off-road capability in a specific (small-ish) package. They aren't the ultimate in reliability and they don't suffer owners that neglect them. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 The laws of physics and math dictate turbos have to be less reliable just based on them having more parts than non turbos. more hoses clamps bearings seals orings gaskets... Add in the additional heat which taxes the coolant and oil for the engine and that makes them also far less forgiving when they do have issues. A leak in a nonturbo means a $300 seal or hose replacement and fluid top off. In a turbo that could easily quickly turn into a 4 digit engine replacement real quick. Great cars but know what you’re getting. Ideally get it new or buy a used one with a blown engine and have GD build your new engine and turbocharger. A 10 year old used one will be a gamble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) yeah, I know mine is a ticking time bomb, and it is under 80K miles. already had a $2k transmission repair and replaced the radiator. god I love driving that thing. Edited February 7, 2021 by 1 Lucky Texan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 7 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: yeah, I know mine is a ticking time bomb, and it is under 80K You know and are perceptive. You owned it most (all?) of its life that’s a big plus. and you know to be perceptive and not put off anything. like that radiator. Normal average repair for you could have been a $5k failure for someone who limps, ignores, or gets a low grade shop/ repair, or buys a used car that had those things already happen. they can be reliable but they’re unforgiving so lack of attention and familiarity is a huge cost. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 it just is what it is. I will say, I have driven it on occasion like I stole it and, while it isn't ALL of them, those 5 spds have a poor reputation. Owned since new, no power mods, SPT pink springs and stromung axleback went on after a 1000 miles or so. it's close to needing a clutch I'm sure. I will probably farm that out and whoever does it I will also pay for 2-3 other things. Be due for it's second TB service, it'll get a waterpump this time. Block-off plates for the air-cut valves (forgot to mention I had to kill 14 codes for those things), service/remove the banjo bolt filters, might have a conversation about a tune, and maybe killer B oil pick-up., get a price for a TGV delete, I dunno, I don't have the money or really the inclination to rice it out or get nuts with it, but the torque is very 'peak-y' and maybe a tune could smooth that out a little? but I'm with everyone else, VERY risky buying one used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Agree with the others.. if you are looking for reliability, turbo is not the route to go. I have been quite happy with my basic NA Subarus - Legacy and Forester. The Forester is quite peppy for a NA car.. EJ251 and fairly light.. it will get up and move pretty well.. is it a sports car? no, not even, but has plenty of umpf to get out of the way/pass when needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim414 Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) Thanks guys. I suppose wishful thinking. Had I'd bought one it would be the STi. But, driving in heavy traffic and having to row gears is not fun either. especially since I have to drive a lot for work, I would like a fun car to drive, but don't want it to eat my lunch in maintenance/repair bills either. I guess the V6 Camry it is. Thanks again ETA: BTW, I've never owned a turbo car, only NA. I do own a 2010 Z06 Vette. Owned since new,. I'm keeping it, 427 ci., the first gen (C6) to use carbon fiber body panels.. Had to put two clutches in it in 34k miles. She's a garage queen lol. Edited February 8, 2021 by tim414 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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