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To rebuild or not to rebuild....E81


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As I start to refurbish my 1984 Brat I am debating what to do about the engine. This is a DL with automatic tranny and A/C. I would prefer to overhaul but research (reality) dictates that some critical components (oil pump / oil pump rebuild kit) have gone extinct. Not sure what swap options there are. Any suggestions? 

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Hearts come into play sometimes in situations like this. 
 

Do you want to be able to flaunt a fairly correct representation of your vehicle or just keep it breathing and rolling ? 
 

The heart says keep looking long and hard and in many places and you will still be able to dig up main bearings and more. Make that engine fresh again and if you have to settle on a used oil pump then just do the best you can with checking play and having seals/gaskets ready. There’s parts out there and more will be showing up from the 80’s 

Notice those recent New Old Stock finds that just popped up.  Couple of guys recently found some stash. And plenty of hoarders going to be cleaning house. Keep your eyes open. 
 

Otherwise find that EJ22 and make it so. 
 

DL Automatic with A/C 

Curious who the original owner was. Seems like an old lady Brat! Enjoy it !

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The original owner was me! Back in '84 purchased this for my day-to-day and then some. When you make a living driving around the metro area, stick shifts get tiresome awful fast. And since most of my leisure time was spent hauling scuba gear to boats nearby or backpacks upstate, I wasn't concerned about the performance loss or fuel economy. Just didn't want to be pumping that clutch M - F, 9-5 in the stop and go. 

I fully expect that since I haven't even spun this engine manually since who knows when (apprx 20 years) that I will be spending some time trying to free up the pistons. No problem. Even if I manage to get it to rotate, I retired the car with 150K plus miles and it was burning some oil at that time and so I think an overhaul is necessary. Have been researching....most key components are within reach (bearings, piston rings, valve stuff, seals and gaskets), but a lot is not.  I got a line on an non-running, 1984  1.8,3AF, 152K at a local salvage yard for $350. Not sure if this warrants consideration, given the dearth of parts for this engine. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks. 

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Your oil pump may be fine and not require any work - just don’t hammer it to get it out, that’s when you crack the pump housing rendering it useless. 

If the bottom end is fine, I’d leave it alone and look at dropping new rings in it as a minimum. Oil usage could be rings or intake valve seals (no seals on exhaust side!). 

Get it turning over first if possible. Don’t force it ;) 

Cheers 

Bennie

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On 3/16/2021 at 9:23 PM, zenzor said:

The original owner was me! Back in '84 purchased this for my day-to-day and then some. When you make a living driving around the metro area, stick shifts get tiresome awful fast. And since most of my leisure time was spent hauling scuba gear to boats nearby or backpacks upstate, I wasn't concerned about the performance loss or fuel economy. Just didn't want to be pumping that clutch M - F, 9-5 in the stop and go. 

I fully expect that since I haven't even spun this engine manually since who knows when (apprx 20 years) that I will be spending some time trying to free up the pistons. No problem. Even if I manage to get it to rotate, I retired the car with 150K plus miles and it was burning some oil at that time and so I think an overhaul is necessary. Have been researching....most key components are within reach (bearings, piston rings, valve stuff, seals and gaskets), but a lot is not.  I got a line on an non-running, 1984  1.8,3AF, 152K at a local salvage yard for $350. Not sure if this warrants consideration, given the dearth of parts for this engine. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks. 

That's excellent.  I'd get it running and see where it's at/what it needs before deciding a rebuild.   It's generally easy to get them to start and run - clean out old fuel and make sure the tank isn't rusty from sitting. 

Clean out the fuel lines and gas tank if needed.  Replace fuel filter.  Plan on the carb being trashed...they always are after sitting for a year LOL.  You'll have to do these anyway so there's no lost time doing this without an engine build. 

Free up the engine, get it lubricated and moving.  If that goes reasonably well (it often does) - then fire it up and see what you get.  You might be surprised. 

If a rebuild is needed - it probably just needs the cylinders cleaned and new rings and you're golden.  The bearings are probably fine if it wasn't mixing oil/coolant, it was full of oil, and not sitting in nasty humid conditions 

MT in cities is horrible, waste of my time and energy!  The boat docks and ramps I've been around aren't exactly manual trans friendly either if they're busy and you're going those places to drop scuba gear. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I finally got around to uncovering this relic, pulled the spark plugs, squirted some oil in each cylinder, put a wrench on the crank pulley........and spun that sucker so easily that I almost feel that I could've done it with my bare hands. I was totally surprised. I am dropping the fuel tank to bring over to a radiator / tank shop to have it checked and boiled out. I will check and clear fuel lines (they look pretty good on the outside) while I wait for the tank to come back. Then I will try and start it up. 

Thanks for the encouragement. 

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  • 5 months later...

As typical of myself, I got detoured away from this project but have got some momentum going now. Unfortunately, my gas tank is badly corroded on top. Tank shop would have to do major repairs to seal it up. Anyone got a tank that'll fit this car for sale?

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In the vintage motorcycle world and I’m sure others you can get freshly made repro tanks. At least a couple companies in India are putting out decent enough quality products according to various users I’ve seen posting. 
 

Maybe it’s time someone sent them a Brat/Brumby tank to copy ?  They didn’t have any problem producing them for rather low production Ducati , Parilia , etc. 
 

Not that it can’t be done here or elsewhere. 

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Can’t have the rad shop weld on a box shaped top to get you going? You won’t see that bit unless you’re really looking anyway, depending on how far down the damage is. If it’s below the tank mounting tabs then it’ll be a bit harder. 

Or they could make you a complete new unit like a touring car (Aussie race car) “drop tank” - a larger fuel tank than stock. They used to look mint back in the day on the track, and they still tough looking on our Aussie muscle cars in my opinion: 

IMG_1492.jpg
 

^ that might be a bit extreme for what you want but you get the idea. Shouldn’t be too hard to pull it off and make it look good too ;) 

Cheers 

Bennie

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23 hours ago, moosens said:

I recall one out west not long ago but have no recent sighting of that post. Sadly that was on face book
 

Does your engine have hydraulic lifters ? Wondering if you bothered with that ‘84 engine.

There is one available in a junkyard in WA but they won't ship it. Never did pursue that '84 engine. How can I determine if lifters are hydraulic without taking apart the engine?

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13 hours ago, el_freddo said:

Can’t have the rad shop weld on a box shaped top to get you going? You won’t see that bit unless you’re really looking anyway, depending on how far down the damage is. If it’s below the tank mounting tabs then it’ll be a bit harder. 

Or they could make you a complete new unit like a touring car (Aussie race car) “drop tank” - a larger fuel tank than stock. They used to look mint back in the day on the track, and they still tough looking on our Aussie muscle cars in my opinion: 

IMG_1492.jpg
 

^ that might be a bit extreme for what you want but you get the idea. Shouldn’t be too hard to pull it off and make it look good too ;) 

Cheers 

Bennie

Fabricating a new top is worth considering. The shop I use is very good but expensive. Not too many choices around here as only a few will still "boil out" and refurbish tanks and radiators anymore. They will do this but it'll probably cost more than it's worth.  I can do a fairly lousy job of fabricating patch panels when necessary  so I may just take this approach. As you said, no one will ever see it until it's too late!  For sure, I'd rather find a usable tank. 

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Decades long trusted Subaru dealer parts manager said no hydraulic EA81 sold by them in Australia, yet plenty of import engines makes it possible. I had one known as an API import. From memory the push rods are all mild steel tube, not alloy of our regular solid littered engines

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