Drive Axles and Rotors

[yblocker]

Our '92 Loyale 4wd needs a driver side axle (worn inner CV), and I want to replace the brake pads and rotors on both sides while I'm at it becuase the shudder transmitted to the steering wheel when the brakes are applied is getting intolerable.  Do you guys have a suggestion on sourcing these parts?  I could do this at autozone, but wanted to see if there is a better option.

[carfreak85]

RockAuto.com will probably have better selection and prices, even after including shipping costs.

There is also a 5% discount code that gets posted to the forum every few months.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Amazon, RA, and ebay have all been good source in the past. As have various online dealers like subaruonlineparts.com subarugenuineparts and subarupartsforyou, etc.

Centric makes fine rotors and their PosiQuiet Ceramic pads are a good value. Any name brand rotor/pads (stay with ceramic or, maybe , semi-metallic for the pad material)

stock brake parts are Tokico with Akebono pads. Good stuff but quality aftermarket is as good and cheaper. Don't get anything labeled economy or w'ever. That stuff is for folks flipping cars or who have minimal finances.

 

so many questions about axles have been asked and answered. My opinion, a used Subaru axle, 'maybe' with new grease and boots, is the best 'practical' option. Next would be new from Raxles or maybe a highly rated brand, FEQ heavy-duty or ????

most risky is typical parts store rebuilt axles. OEM is extremely pricey of course.

[yblocker]

 

What about this? HD Axle

I don't see why its necessary to have them on both sides as it states.  

Cheaper than Raxles. Maybe better than the 8 year old Cardone that's on there?

[DaveT]

OEM axles are painted dark green on the cups.  Unless they are extremely trashed, clean, regrease, reboot.   FAR better than aftermarket axles.   Do a few searches on here for all of the past threads with horror stories about aftermarket axles.  CVJ / half shaft / front axle.

 

[yblocker]

DaveT - My Loyale is the same color as yours!

I wish the axles I have were OEM.  They are not.  They are reman Cardones or equivalent.  I suppose I could source good CVs and use the shaft I have.

[DaveT]

I replaced the balls in one of my oem ones.  The cup was good, the star was ok, but the balls in this one had taken the abuse.  I got new ones, re assembled it, so far, so good.  Keep your eyes open for used oem, but it's going to be tricky depending on where you are.

[idosubaru]

I’ve seen zero difference with pads and rotors except cheap rotors sometimes last a year/15,000 miles and most rotors rust easier than OEM, even “coated” ones. But rust doesn’t matter much on a daily driver as use will mitigate it. So it doesn’t make me avoid any I’m just not going to get excited about any over any others either.  I avoid cheap pads and often land on quiet cast, they come with new clips. Alright aftermarket clips also rust faster than OEM.

CVs 

5 hours ago, yblocker said:

What about this? HD Axle

I don't see why its necessary to have them on both sides as it states.  

Cheaper than Raxles. Maybe better than the 8 year old Cardone that's on there?

No - garbage.  But how do you hear my anecdotal response over the axle whores flooding the internet?

Id try to get OEM. I’ve got OEM axles that no one would ever offer decent money for so they can’t be that hard to find. eBay?  Facebook classified parting out, if you’re not in the rust belt which is devoid of older Subarus  

Every clicking or vibrating OEM axle Ive cleaned and rebooted with fresh grease ran like new afterwards. There’s two such axles being run by on a forums members Subaru right here for like 5+ years now, I did them. Not sure how that would go over on aftermarket axles but Gloyale owns a shop and says the aftermarket axles come with cheap grease and often not enough of it. He reboots and repacks any new aftermarket axle before he installs it.

Thats fairly compelling evidence that regreasing aftermarket axles has merit, but I avoid aftermarket axles like the plague so I wound never have the chance.

Id get a cheap one from a local auto parts store so returns are easy and run that until I come across some OEM ones.  
 

good time to consider EJ knuckle swap. 

 

Edited April 10, 2021 by idosubaru

[1 Lucky Texan]

I have no where near the experience Ido has, but I bought pads on clearance once that were noisy and had terrifyingly worse stopping distance. Had to dump them after only a coupla months. I will only use name-brand ceramic or, maybe, StopTech street performance or w'ever they call them now on the WRX ( Para-Aramid composite )

 

[idosubaru]

8 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

I have no where near the experience Ido has, but I bought pads on clearance once that were noisy and had terrifyingly worse stopping distance. Had to dump them after only a coupla months. I will only use name-brand ceramic or, maybe, StopTech street performance or w'ever they call them now on the WRX ( Para-Aramid composite )

 

You’re right.  I over stated and oversimplified it. Any pad that is gone in 12,000 miles sounds like trashy quality and like it could also fall apart and suck. I should have said that differently.  pads lasting a year is pretty damming evidence and I avoid them as well.  I get name brand decent pads, usually ceramic and should have said this is the way to go. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Other folks with experience have mentioned cheaper pads are OK too. And I don't think that brake squeal necessarily is bad - just annoying. But, pads that dust a lot, wear-out quickly, don't have good initial bite (which may not show itself until winter) or don't modulate well, or, maybe even require you to file or grind on the backing plate just to move freely in the caliper?

yeah, for a car I'm keeping for myself - one that I still recall what the braking felt like when it was new - I'll spend the xtra $8 or w'ever and then never look back.

(I don't discount the possibility that an emergency could force someone to buy w'ever is at hand, or, buy cheap now, so you can upgrade immediately when funds become available.)

I've been 'that guy' in the past, buying the cheapest hose or belt or sparkplug.......usually regretted it. This is an area where marketing doesn't help the consumer much, or, can be cause for concern if you don't have good advice to take with you when you shop. No parts store wants to lose your business because their competitor down the street has a fan belt that is $2 cheaper, so many consumables are available in a wide range of price....and quality. It's a race to the bottom.

Edited April 10, 2021 by 1 Lucky Texan

[idosubaru]

By cheap I mean the low grade at local auto parts stores - silver line at advanced auto parts. never seen the heavily discounted $6 pads.

[1 Lucky Texan]

oh, nothing wrong with shopping for a good price among , say, name brand ceramic pads across different vendors. (of course, nowadays I guess we have to watch out for 'gray market and counterfeit' parts too.)

I think the pads I spoke about were Wagner, but I don't recall if they were semi-metallic or some kinda resin or what. They were terrifying and squeaky.

I don't get paid to risk life and limb testing 'economy' pads so, I don't risk it. Some of them may be great - OK, which ones?

 

and down here, we don't even buildup much rust. I can't imagine living in the rust belt and STARTING OUT by taking a pad over to the grinder to get the flashing left by poor stamping of a backplate down to where it will fit in the caliper. How tight is that fit gonna be after a coupla winters rust growth?  (Rust Never Sleeps - NY)

[idosubaru]

I’ve seen unfamiliar brands for $3 or $6 on rockauto. Never tried those. 

I haven’t had to grind pads down for awhile.  Does it still happen? On newer stuff?

I didn’t know if manufacturers finally adjusted their dimensions or it was just 90s stuff that I don’t work on any more or because I’m more consistently buying the same brand pads without issues so I’m just not seeing it  

 

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

good point, you are seeing some positive changes I guess. I only report what I've read. What brands and composition are you using now?

[idosubaru]

1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

good point, you are seeing some positive changes I guess. I only report what I've read. What brands and composition are you using now?

I don’t know if it’s changes or not. my buying habits and constant rust driven shift to newer cars are too different to say.

Quietcast, Subaru, and sometimes a name brand mid-grade lower cost/on sale at rockauto if it’s someone that’s cash strapped.

I rarely install Advanced Auto Parts silver  (they’re lowest offering) any more, but used to use them frequently. I’m pretty sure I did some grinding on those - but that’s when I was doing 90s Subarus too and I almost never do those any more...and my memory could be wrong!

 

 

[ferp420]

the last time i did my breaks was about 5-7 years ago i went with the drilled and sloted rotors and used the pads that came with them they easyly doubled my stoping power my 30" tires need all the help they can get right after that i had a guy pull infront of me on a vary steep down hill in a turn at about 70mph he was passing a truck doing about 45 and dident look i was bracing for impact but the new breaks dident lock up dident jerk the car at all just a nice smooth hard break and swerve i was almost in to the wall but had just enuff break for the guy to get in front of me with out hitting anything so now everytime i replace my rotors i buy the drilled and slotted rotors that are made here in california and sold on ebay by the manufacturer and there almost half the price of the cheapest parts from orealy s and made here in america so i see it as a win win 

[ferp420]

axles your kinda screwed the HD axle you linked is junk mine lasted 5 days before the guts disintigrated now days i just buy the cheapest new axle from the parts store and reboot and regreese using silicone boots and quality cv bearing greese  finding og shafts is pretty much not a option anymore

these cars were never ment to last this long they were throw aways cars when they were new so there isent any profit in making parts for them anymore so the best we get is chinese junk unless its custom made if you find someone who will make a custom cv axle at a decent price im sure we all want to know 

[idosubaru]

2 hours ago, ferp420 said:

these cars were never ment to last this long

True - these aren’t some special units of supreme longevity....but What cars ever were that were high volume production vehicles? 

The only reason there’s a market for 60s and 70s stuff is because people are willing to pay for it, they’re not typically daily drivers, and there’s fewer options/variables - not because they were inherently built to last forever in high use diary driver, snow, work, hauling practical use. 

It’s rare to see any older vehicles around except trucks and Subarus.  Much of that is rust driven here - but still Subarus are sticking around longer than any other car  

Start driving all those old cars like they’re even remotely practical - every day and hauling stuff from Lowe’s and driving to work sites and that market would change real fast too. 

Edited April 24, 2021 by idosubaru

[ferp420]

well i have a 71 bug highly mass produced and built to last its been pulled out of the weeds 3 times now and daily driven after each time it was awakened from its slumber to bad the convertable top disintigrated though or i might still be driven it lol

most older american cars were built to last but most people these days cant seem to find the cup holders so they cant drive them

my contractor budy uses his 65 chevy stepside as a dailydriver work truck for over 25 years

the old japanes cars were built pretty solid too my 69 toyota corona was a fliping tank to bad they dident get there motors dialed in yet though but it was one plush rig 

personaly i have my own stash of old 70s vehicles i would have no problem driving any of them once pulled out of storage cleaned up and the minor issues from no use abuse fixed  like breaklines and rubber hoses and what not the 73 campmobile has already had this done to it twice since ive had it and needs it again lol bug needs the clutch fixed but were to find the clutch for a auto stick lol and i still need to finish the diesel swap on the scout some one put a race built motor in it before i got.it and although that motor was hot as hay it dident last too long 

i had a 63 mecury the model that ford build the mustang from it had one of those 260 v8s and that damb thing would get up 100 mpg if you could.get it going fast enuff for long enuff that car loved hyway speeds but no cupholders lol 

ill tell you what if i wasent getting my subarus for free i would buy pre 1975 cars only they are so much better than any of this new junk coming out these days 

Edited April 25, 2021 by ferp420

[ferp420]

oh and i have a freind that daily drives a 56 buick station wagon its his only rig outside of his work truck

theres no reason you cant drive old cars everyday and still work them like they were  new you just need to know what each end of the wench is for and your good

Edited April 25, 2021 by ferp420

[Ionstorm66]

On 4/24/2021 at 9:37 AM, ferp420 said:

axles your kinda screwed the HD axle you linked is junk mine lasted 5 days before the guts disintigrated now days i just buy the cheapest new axle from the parts store and reboot and regreese using silicone boots and quality cv bearing greese  finding og shafts is pretty much not a option anymore

these cars were never ment to last this long they were throw aways cars when they were new so there isent any profit in making parts for them anymore so the best we get is chinese junk unless its custom made if you find someone who will make a custom cv axle at a decent price im sure we all want to know 

I mean I own 2 300K+ mile original drivetrain ea82s. I have also driven almost that many miles on my ea82s total. I have never had a Subaru axle fail from wear, only boots. If you keep grease in and water out the axles last forever. Aftermarket axles are built like trash, you can usally order 3 and build one good one. I've had stripped threads, bad splines, missing circlips, no grease, and bad clamps. I only buy them when I'm road tripping and tear a boot. I normally bring spares, but not always.

Same goes for factory wheel bearings, never had a bad one that didn't have water in it. I re-seal and repack every 50k now.

[ferp420]

ya to bad we cant get originals anymore

ive cracked cages split open cups sheared shafts and striped the splines or some combo of all the above on all my originals i had 3 set of og axles at one time now i cant even build 1 good one from the peices left over so i reboot and regreese cheap parts store axles

finding originals to rebuild is pretty hard these days let alone finding a good one or new one

[idosubaru]

6 hours ago, ferp420 said:

oh and i have a freind that daily drives a 56 buick station wagon its his only rig outside of his work truck

theres no reason you cant drive old cars everyday and still work them like they were  new you just need to know what each end of the wench is for and your good

Hahahhahaaa. Keep in mind I agree with you Suabrus arent some super hero car. They have a good fit for plenty of people like any other car  

but - You talk about beating the ever loving $&!& out of your axles - you can’t get any axle to work, every axles available you blow up, those of us driving 250k in old Subarus on original axles tell you to get OEM and you complain you blow them up in a year.

So your 70s VW and friends old cars are being off road, have 30” tires, and seeing gobs of snow and salt all winter as you trash their axles too? How many miles are they driven?  

And how are you comparing them to those of us driving perfectly usable old gen Subarus every day probably more miles than all that impractical useless 70s stuff.

I towed a loaded 6x12 trailer, nonworking 4 wheeler (don’t ask, it was for a friend), 4 people and hundreds of pounds of gear 2,000 miles up to 10,000 feet elk hunting with my old gen Subaru and drove it home full of elk meat I packed out with my own legs.  70s stuff = impractical novelty unless it’s a truck to me.  Laughable useless cars  

toss some data up - of these cars and their mileages.   not saying Subarus are some epitome of anything. They’d ARE NOT. I agree with you. They’re all just metal, who cares how long they last - just get what’s a good fit for your uses. But let’s at least talk data, miles, and apples to apples comparison.

[subaru1988]

Since people in the know really talk up old Subaru axles, what about reman'd OEM axles? Are they also worth regreasing and rebooting like OEM axles if it's a proven good unit? Both of my axles make a little noise and the boots are torn, and according to what I've read on here, one of them is a reman Subaru piece because it has the green outer "housing" on the tranny side. Both of my axles are NOT the originals, but they've lasted 100K+ miles.

First thing I'm going to do is the grease needle trick on one of them to get my by for awhile, but if I could get away with just rebooting and repacking at least one of them, that would be great.

Old cars can be great daily drivers IF the driver is willing to do the extra maintenance they need. Newer cars have problems too, though. As idosubaru said, many old cars fall prey to the tin worm long before they wear out mechanically, unfortunately.