Xt6 lost power completely

[xXArchusXx]

88xt6 has almost stalled at stops several times and only getting like 14 mpg. Today it has lost power only getting power in like 4k range. 

Had my grandfather look it over and he thinks its the ignition points on the distributor. where can i find the right part?

No vacuum lines seem to be off or  lost. There is a tick but it does go away after a bit. 

[idosubaru]

check for spark at each cylinder

Check plugs or how old are they if you don’t want to pull them?

Check timing belts both sides. 

Check for fuel. I just yank the line incoming to engine bay and crank the key - should flow out like a scaled down garden hose. 

Replace distributor cap and rotor.  any auto parts should be able to get it  or order online  

 

[xXArchusXx]

15 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

check for spark at each cylinder

Check plugs or how old are they if you don’t want to pull them?

Check timing belts both sides. 

Check for fuel. I just yank the line incoming to engine bay and crank the key - should flow out like a scaled down garden hose. 

Replace distributor cap and rotor.  any auto parts should be able to get it  or order online  

 

sparkplugs are good, timing belts look new no cracks but dont know how to check timing..  fuel came out when i changed the fuel filter     ill get those parts

[idosubaru]

oh we forgot the most important items, I sort of skipped these since you didn’t mention check engine light:

1. Is the check engine light on?  Have you read the stored codes?

2. Are the CTS connections clean or corroded.  By far the most common xt6 issue.  That can be problematic and not trigger the check engine light, though it usually does. 

If you have spark at each cylinder then the cap, rotor, and wires and coil are all good. If you don’t have spark then one of those is bad. 

[Masterofreach]

21 hours ago, idosubaru said:

oh we forgot the most important items, I sort of skipped these since you didn’t mention check engine light:

1. Is the check engine light on?  Have you read the stored codes?

2. Are the CTS connections clean or corroded.  By far the most common xt6 issue.  That can be problematic and not trigger the check engine light, though it usually does. 

If you have spark at each cylinder then the cap, rotor, and wires and coil are all good. If you don’t have spark then one of those is bad. 

Just  found this page, what's the deal with CTS connections? My car's been having some issues and I might wanna look into whatever this might be

[Dee2]

On 4/12/2021 at 6:27 PM, xXArchusXx said:

88xt6 has almost stalled at stops several times and only getting like 14 mpg. Today it has lost power only getting power in like 4k range.

If your engine is not running properly and you want to fix it then you first must get some diagnostic information and make some physical checks.

After checking for codes, one of the best things you can do, which is fast and easy, is run a vacuum test on the engine.  Here's a couple of links telling what can be learned and how to interpret the gauge.  This will help to eliminate whether  your engine has any major problems.  Likely it does not, but it only takes a few minutes to check.

https://dannysengineportal.com/vacuum-gauge-test-tells-you-a-lot-about-the-condition-of-your-engine/

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

Also, when was the last time it had a tune up ? As already mentioned, check the plugs, check the distributor cap, check the timing, check the air filter and fuel filter.  Check the oil and transmission fluid levels.

More comprehensive would be to check the engine compression and do a fuel system pressure check.

Edited April 15, 2021 by Dee2

[idosubaru]

4 hours ago, Masterofreach said:

Just  found this page, what's the deal with CTS connections? My car's been having some issues and I might wanna look into whatever this might be

This is XT6 specific.  I've probably fixed XT6 CTS's more times than most people have seen one. 
They get corrosion in the plug that plugs into the top of the CTS.  The sensor contacts are covered, the plug contacts are completely covered, and it can also go up into the insulation of the wiring a few inches back into the wiring harness.  There's a generic fuel injector connector that's the same plug with pigtail that splices right in place and there are no parts to remove to access it so the repair is easy. 

You can even solder wire to the 2 CTS spades, then splice that new wire back into the wiring harness.  Attach it to the wiring harness with a simple disconnect plug so that the sensor or harness can be removed/replaced if needed. 

[xXArchusXx]

no lights on the dash, new oil, fuel air filter, lines look good, ill get spark plugs dist cap and rotor, thermostat, and possibly a new coolant temp sensor(where is it?), throttle body and mass airflow sensor cleaner

 

proper way to check timing?

Edited April 14, 2021 by xXArchusXx

[idosubaru]

48 minutes ago, xXArchusXx said:

no lights on the dash, new oil, fuel air filter, lines look good, ill get spark plugs dist cap and rotor, thermostat, and possibly a new coolant temp sensor(where is it?), throttle body and mass airflow sensor cleaner

 

proper way to check timing?

Describe how it's running and what it does?  Is it so bad it's not drivable or you just can't get your 1/4 mile times in?

Was there *any work at all* done prior to this issue or it's been driving great for 6 months with no problems and no work?

CTS location...***the sensor is not the issue***   Replacing the sensor often gives the same symptoms, because the sensor isn't the issue.  Or if it does 'fix' it, it's only temporary because the corroded connector/wiring will cause the same thign to happen to the new sensor.  It is next to thermostat housing/the second radiator cap "on the engine", not the radiator cap.  Pull the connector and look at the contacts in the connector - are they shiny metal or something else?  You can temporarily clean them to improve drivability - with a tiny pick clean the connector and bits of folded sand paper to clean the CTS.  But ultimately the wiring will need replaced/repaired as I stated in my previous reply. 

Check the spark plug wires - mist them in the dark or test resistance and see if they're all the same or look up the spec's in the FSM. 

Timing is set via a timing light and adjusting the distributor via loosening the two small hold down bolts  and sliding it within the slots. Follow the timing adjustment procudure in the FSM - which should be available free online, it's been around the internet for 10+ years now.  I'd get it. 

[xXArchusXx]

1 hour ago, idosubaru said:

Describe how it's running and what it does?  Is it so bad it's not drivable or you just can't get your 1/4 mile times in?

Was there *any work at all* done prior to this issue or it's been driving great for 6 months with no problems and no work?

CTS location...***the sensor is not the issue***   Replacing the sensor often gives the same symptoms, because the sensor isn't the issue.  Or if it does 'fix' it, it's only temporary because the corroded connector/wiring will cause the same thign to happen to the new sensor.  It is next to thermostat housing/the second radiator cap "on the engine", not the radiator cap.  Pull the connector and look at the contacts in the connector - are they shiny metal or something else?  You can temporarily clean them to improve drivability - with a tiny pick clean the connector and bits of folded sand paper to clean the CTS.  But ultimately the wiring will need replaced/repaired as I stated in my previous reply. 

Check the spark plug wires - mist them in the dark or test resistance and see if they're all the same or look up the spec's in the FSM. 

Timing is set via a timing light and adjusting the distributor via loosening the two small hold down bolts  and sliding it within the slots. Follow the timing adjustment procudure in the FSM - which should be available free online, it's been around the internet for 10+ years now.  I'd get it. 

was running perfect but then a couple days ago it had like no power at all i had to get it to rev to 4k to get the normal power at 2500rpm and i havent driven it again, theres no lights on the dash which is weird

[xXArchusXx]

23 minutes ago, xXArchusXx said:

was running perfect but then a couple days ago it had like no power at all i had to get it to rev to 4k to get the normal power at 2500rpm and i havent driven it again, theres no lights on the dash which is weird

my dad just drove it and he thinks its the same so i dont know what happened

[Dee2]

3 hours ago, xXArchusXx said:

ill get spark plugs dist cap and rotor, thermostat, and possibly a new coolant temp sensor(where is it?), throttle body and mass airflow sensor cleaner 

Throwing parts at the car is not the right approach.  find out what the problem is first.  You can clean and sharpen spark plugs.  You can clean contacts in the distributor.  Cleaning the throttle body and MAF is a good idea, but only if they need it.  Inspect first.

Quote

my dad just drove it and he thinks its the same so i dont know what happened

That could just mean you have an intermittent problem.

Edited April 14, 2021 by Dee2

[DaveT]

I'm not xt specific.    But starving for fuel can do that.  T in a pressure gauge after the last filter.

Other thing I had do this was the guts of one of the catalytic converters broke loose, and mostly blocked the exhaust.  

Both of these were intermittent when I had them happen.  The test for the exhaust is to loosen the y pipe bolts on the studs to get a gap between the heads and the pipe, like 1/2".  It will be loud.  But if it runs great, the exhaust system has a blockage.

Edited April 14, 2021 by DaveT

[idosubaru]

3 hours ago, Dee2 said:

Throwing parts at the car is not the right approach.  find out what the problem is first.

True, but those are all maintenance items, not repair items. this isn’t quite ‘throwing parts at it’. issues can prompt upcoming or needed maintenance, that’s even sometimes recommended. Unless they’re relatively new it’s not a waste on a daily driver.

Accurate information would help a lot, right now we get one confusing statement after another - keep in mind we can’t see hear or smell the car, we know nothing except what you tell us: 

1. A little relevant history would help - how old are the plugs wires air cap rotor? When was the last time it didn’t run or had issues and what caused that?

2. what does “no lights” on the dash mean? Is it that the warning lights aren’t indicating a problem? or none of the lights work at all - like not even night time background speedometer lights?

3. “he thinks it’s the same”....’the same’ as what?  Same as you think, or same as it always has been and he thinks there’s no problem - meaning it’s intermittent?

 

Edited April 15, 2021 by idosubaru

[idosubaru]

1 hour ago, DaveT said:

I'm not xt specific.   

Same pistons, valves, injectors, HLAs, fuel filter and fuel pump (both same location too) and overall engine design as MPFI EA82 with two more cylinders.

The electronics and many sensors are different. but I have gotten 4 cylinder EA82 XTs to yard run on 6 cylinder ECUs (or was it the other way around?) just by plugging and playing the ECU with no custom or wiring work at all (it was ugly but it did start and move).  

So the electronics are different but they’re in the same zip code. XT6 has considerably common, more so than the EA82, CTS and IAC issues.

Edited April 15, 2021 by idosubaru

[Dee2]

3 hours ago, DaveT said:

Other thing I had do this was the guts of one of the catalytic converters broke loose, and mostly blocked the exhaust.  

Just as a sidebar, so  folks can be aware, a vacuum gauge will also indicate if there is a restricted exhaust.  A little easier than having to drop the Y-pipe

Edited April 15, 2021 by Dee2

[nipper]

51 minutes ago, Dee2 said:

Just as a sidebar, so  folks can be aware, a vacuum gauge will also indicate if there is a restricted exhaust.  A little easier than having to drop the Y-pipe

It actually can tell you quite alot and its a cheap tool

[nipper]

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/08/quick-tech-how-to-read-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/

[xXArchusXx]

One sparkug was shot and new plugs wires and rotor and cleaning cap connections makes it run much better. Now i feel better revving it higher. Back plugs by firewall have like no room to put your hands so it took longer.

Edited April 23, 2021 by xXArchusXx