heartless Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 i will get the camera gear out and we can record it for posterity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 (edited) or insurance purposes?? Just ran into Moosens and noticed that he had 2 driveshafts in the rear of his pickup. I asked if they were for 2001 but no, I don't think they were even 90s vintage. who here (besides Moosens) drives around with not one but two Subie driveshafts "just in case?" Edited June 6, 2021 by brus brother 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 (edited) I have 2 other shafts but they all have bad u joints i mostly want to disconnect it until the new u joint arrives because im just so tired of it shaking the hour drive to work and back every day Edited June 6, 2021 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 Popular again , but maybe not so. As notated the prop shafts do have a center bearing so two pieced. I would suspect these are remnants from the 80’s cars GL DL Loyale action. I can recall ugliness with many of those carrier bearings. Rotted floor/unibody caused one side of the bracket to weaken and mmmm trouble. Don’t have pics. Shame on me. They’re free to a good home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 well i changed that u joint today. it dident change the shake at all im starting to get annoyed with this car. its like no matter what i do it just shakes and no matter what i replace it wont fix it. the car has good bearings replacement used hubs new ball joints new tie rods used good front shocks new rotors new pads new sway bar end links new sway bar bushings new a arm bushings good used axles and now new u joints in the driveshaft. i feel like if i want a car that dont shake im gonna have to buy another one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 (edited) Can warped rotors cause a shake that starts around 50 mph and goes away when u let off the gas? Also seems to go away when steering and is dead smooth below 50mph and whats the chances it could be the steering rack transmission mount or engine mounts? I dunno what els really ive swapped nearly everything Edited June 12, 2021 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Next things to inspect are brake caliper slides and suspension bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 (edited) On 6/12/2021 at 9:43 AM, sirtokesalot said: Can warped rotors cause a shake that starts around 50 mph and goes away when u let off the gas? Also seems to go away when steering and is dead smooth below 50mph and whats the chances it could be the steering rack transmission mount or engine mounts? I dunno what els really ive swapped nearly everything very unlikely, 'warped' (usually uneven deposits from pads, extremely rare to actually 'potato chip') rotors would be felt when applying brakes. Not to say stuck calipers could cause issues. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjRosfmsZbxAhXDG80KHWfmBDMQFjAAegQIAxAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fcentricparts.com%2Fgetmedia%2Fbd69395a-b65c-481d-93f7-b26b1bd0638d%2FCentric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2Syl_CnageQ47I6fsJZy3W check toe in the front. I don't recall the first page but, inner tie rods, ball joints OK? Maybe bad steering rack bushings could do this??? Edited June 14, 2021 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 On 6/11/2021 at 7:38 PM, sirtokesalot said: well i changed that u joint today. it dident change the shake at all im starting to get annoyed with this car. its like no matter what i do it just shakes and no matter what i replace it wont fix it. the car has good bearings replacement used hubs new ball joints new tie rods used good front shocks new rotors new pads new sway bar end links new sway bar bushings new a arm bushings good used axles and now new u joints in the driveshaft. i feel like if i want a car that dont shake im gonna have to buy another one. I'm assuming you have no guess as to whether this is coming from the front or rear right? Did you replace both inner and outer tie rods? I'm inclined to think this is bushing related. Check front control arm bushings and make sure all the bolts are tight with no stripped captive nuts. If the steering rack bushings are shot there's often (always?) a slight delay or sloppiness in the steering, or a light noise, due to the rack shifting within the weak/nonexistent bushings. I doubt this is steering rack mounting related. On 6/12/2021 at 10:43 AM, sirtokesalot said: Can warped rotors cause a shake that starts around 50 mph and goes away when u let off the gas? Also seems to go away when steering and is dead smooth below 50mph and whats the chances it could be the steering rack transmission mount or engine mounts? I dunno what els really ive swapped nearly everything No. Definitely not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Just my 2 bucks here. If you're feeling shake while on the gas and then shaking (mostly) stops when you let off, my experience has been the inner joint of one (or both in my case) of the CV axles is bad. Considering the low quality of aftermarket CV axles out there, this could be a high probability. Who knows how old and what "brand" your axles are? Other than that (as stated in earlier posts), wheel balance leaps to mind. NVZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 59 minutes ago, NV Zeno said: Just my 2 bucks here. If you're feeling shake while on the gas and then shaking (mostly) stops when you let off, my experience has been the inner joint of one (or both in my case) of the CV axles is bad. Considering the low quality of aftermarket CV axles out there, this could be a high probability. Who knows how old and what "brand" your axles are? Other than that (as stated in earlier posts), wheel balance leaps to mind. NVZ Agreed - axles are particularly prone to vibrating (no noises) at the inner joint under load - accelerating, up hill, and then it immediately goes away when letting off the gas. I think he said he swapped axles already...and is adamant they're good. If they're aftermarket - there's no telling. I"ve seen so many bad aftermarket axles, getting a few bad ones in a row would not shock me at all. It's annoying but OEM used axles are available - at yards, cars-part.com, ebay (usually pricey), etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 6 hours ago, idosubaru said: Agreed - axles are particularly prone to vibrating (no noises) at the inner joint under load - accelerating, up hill, and then it immediately goes away when letting off the gas. I think he said he swapped axles already...and is adamant they're good. If they're aftermarket - there's no telling. I"ve seen so many bad aftermarket axles, getting a few bad ones in a row would not shock me at all. It's annoying but OEM used axles are available - at yards, cars-part.com, ebay (usually pricey), etc. common things occur most commonly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 I have had the shaking under power be a bad inner CV joint, can be surprisingly hard to track it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) ive done alot to the front end of this car. i havent put new axles in it but i have swapped between like 4 other axles ive had and not had it change im not saying every axle i have is good but i cant see all 6 or 8 front axles i have collected from cars ive broke down being bad ither. inner and outer tie rods were replaced with used parts that had no play in them. the hubs and bearings were replaced with a used set from one of the cars i broke down and bearings sound good and no play in wheels from bearings. lower ball joints are both brand new from earlier this year lower control arm bushings the rear ones that bolt in are new from earlier this year. front sway bar bushings and links are also new from earlier this year. it did have new front rotors last year but im sure there warped by now but dont really suspect them as the shake they do shake while braking thogh. also has new/used calipers as the originals were leaking they are not seized and slide pins move freely. new u joint in the driveshaft both u joints move freely and center bearing feels in great shape. i even tried swapping the front strut assembly's with my yard car just for the hell of it. the steering rack seems to be mounted solid but i do have the common steering rack clucks when rocking the steering wheel left and right. it definitely feels like the front while im driving it. there also seems to be a weird handling to it like its not solid but i can find nothing loose. as far as an alignment goes i did a string method alignment on it. it does drive strait and does not pull left or right. i have intentions to get a proper alignment done but wanted to get the shaking fixed first so im not taking it apart after the alignment and wasting money. if i dont go over 50mph u would never know the car did any of this. it drives perfect below 50mph no shakes no odd handling just drives dead smooth and strait. Edited June 17, 2021 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 40 minutes ago, sirtokesalot said: ive done alot to the front end of this car. i havent put new axles in it but i have swapped between like 4 other axles ive had and not had it change im not saying every axle i have is good but i cant see all 6 or 8 front axles i have collected from cars ive broke lower control arm bushings the rear ones that bolt in are new from earlier this year. 1. Is the car lifted? How much? If it’s stock height then yes the chances of that many axles having the same symptom seems absurd. But I’ve had aftermarket axles vibrate or click on lifted Subarus but work fine on stock height Subaru. anything beyond moderate use is torture for them poor things. If it’s lifted I would wonder how high it’s lifted and 2” or more I’d be a little (maybe not a lot) suspicious 2. I would check those front control arm rear bushing *bolts* for looseness or stripped captive nuts. I’ve seen that before on 00-04 models. 3. Also while you’re there - I’ve seen those front/rear 00-04 aftermarket bushings on that same car last a year or so and tear. Shortest lives bushing I’ve seen from aftermarket cars on any Subaru part - that same bushing on 00-04 models. I’ll still use them since they’re so easy to replace and cheap. If you replaced it before symptoms and are assuming it’s good you may want to double check them. 4. how’s the front bushing on that front control arm? 5. 00-04 had rear subframe rust issues. Have you gotten a really good look at the rear subframe? I think you’re not in a rust prone area but maybe it spent time in one with a prior owner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 19 minutes ago, idosubaru said: 1. Is the car lifted? How much? If it’s stock height then yes the chances of that many axles having the same symptom seems absurd. But I’ve had aftermarket axles vibrate or click on lifted Subarus but work fine on stock height Subaru. anything beyond moderate use is torture for them poor things. If it’s lifted I would wonder how high it’s lifted and 2” or more I’d be a little (maybe not a lot) suspicious 2. I would check those front control arm rear bushing *bolts* for looseness or stripped captive nuts. I’ve seen that before on 00-04 models. 3. Also while you’re there - I’ve seen those front/rear 00-04 aftermarket bushings on that same car last a year or so and tear. Shortest lives bushing I’ve seen from aftermarket cars on any Subaru part - that same bushing on 00-04 models. I’ll still use them since they’re so easy to replace and cheap. If you replaced it before symptoms and are assuming it’s good you may want to double check them. 4. how’s the front bushing on that front control arm? 5. 00-04 had rear subframe rust issues. Have you gotten a really good look at the rear subframe? I think you’re not in a rust prone area but maybe it spent time in one with a prior owner? 1 its stock ride height not lifted. 2 i actually checked the front end 3 days ago at work over the pit and those bushings appeared in great shape still they dont move excessively while having someone els kick the wheel while i looked from the back side. i supose i could pull them off and check them out of the car. 3 they were replaced about 4 months ago 4 the front bushings are still original. i looked at them with a light and dont see the bushings coming apart they still seem centered in the control arm. 5 while the subframe is not rust free its not a total rust ball ither. i do know the rear bushings are wearing as i notice a slight bit of play in the rear but ive definitely seen alot worst. i supose i can try swapping axles again one at a time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 Im having a bad allergy day so cant read through the posts, but may I suggest inspecting the universal joints iand the carrier bearing n the driveshaft? My apologies if already discussed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) with the car up in the air checking the inner cv joints there is alot of up and down play where the axle goes into the diff more so on the passenger side than the drivers side. seems like something inside the diff. could this be an issue and the cause of the shake? i do have another transmission but dont really want to change it lol. going to swap the passenger side axle anyways for now and see if it changes anything the knocking sound is i believe the diff gears from rocking the wheel back and forth in park. sorry about the video quality it was kinda hard to get the phone in there and see the axle. u can see the top of the axle thogh jumping up and down when i turn the wheel back and forth Edited June 17, 2021 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) just finished swapping the passenger axle and swapping my original struts back in because they were in better shape than the test ones i put in a couple weeks ago. there seems to be less shaking now with a different axle in the passenger side though i do think i still feel it lightly. i suppose a longer test drive would help determine it but seems like its alot less now. is that stub shaft play in the transmission something i should worry about? could it be contributing to the shake any? Edited June 17, 2021 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 Yes it could - vibrating under load that goes away when letting off the gas is 100% of the time inner axle joint or front diff. Front diff usually has noise associated with it (whining), axle is noiseless. You didn’t mention any noise so I assumed it was the axle. Draining the diff oil might show some swirling Apparently the axle was part of it, though you seem unsure? It took 7 or 9 axle changes to figure out the bad passengers side axle. How much confidence do we have in the drivers side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 That axle seems to move too much (in the not rotational direction) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 19, 2021 Author Share Posted June 19, 2021 (edited) It did not stop just dident get going fash enough in town when i started the video it was shaking full go until i let off then dident show in video again. It kind of seems like its an all the time shake now once over 50 Edited June 19, 2021 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 what is the likeliness of the axle stub play being the cause of the shaking? is it worth the chance to swap the transmission to a lower mile unit without stub shaft play? would it possibly fix the shaking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 (edited) at this point now ive also changed the a arms and rear bushings now as well. also found a slightly worn ball joint that i also replaced still shakes the only thing left is the steering rack witch i noticed has this spot where the rack moves while its steering in and out. hard to see on camera but can barly see it more obvious in person. it seems like where the center is dips down then back up as it passes that spot. Edited July 30, 2021 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 are reman steering racks worth anything or should i just buy new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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