heartless Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 what on earth is all over the top of the block? is that critter debris? holy cats that is a mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 10, 2021 Author Share Posted September 10, 2021 Pesky critters , eh ? Drill and tap ordered through Satan himself. Should arrive while I’m having fun. Back at it Tuesday. GD thanks again for your advice. I don’t like using Satan but looks like my soul will remain with me for now. I bumped up a little in quality for the tap after reading reviews. But did get a plug/bottom set of two like you originally suggested. Amazed that I could not seem to find one locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 On 9/10/2021 at 3:46 AM, moosens said: Pesky critters , eh ? Drill and tap ordered through Satan himself. Should arrive while I’m having fun. Back at it Tuesday. GD thanks again for your advice. I don’t like using Satan but looks like my soul will remain with me for now. I bumped up a little in quality for the tap after reading reviews. But did get a plug/bottom set of two like you originally suggested. Amazed that I could not seem to find one locally. I buy most of that stuff for my shop through a local tool company but being you couldn't find one..... and unfortunately things like electronics and a lot specialty stuff you can really only find online now. Used to have Fry's Electronics, and other places but they all went away GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 I stopped short of chasing Snap-On or Matco and such but did shop the way I would have when growing up in the machine/tool industry using today’s tech. Ah , but those great suppliers have vanished. Or only carry kits which are up to 16mm if you’re lucky. And for the record I have not been involved with the machine/tool trade since around 1982 or so. Yikes. So the taper and plug taps look fine enough. But they arrive so generic in wrapping and packaging you get the feeling they sent me the least expensive ones anyways. But hey like you know it’s soft metal. Should be fine. Now to put the camping gear away and find my tap wrench(s). The drill I can grab. The tap wrench , been a while so I may have to do the MAN thing and buy another one only to find the original soon after. Pessimistic SOB I know , but history dictates sometimes. Yeah the races were awesome ! NJMP is Subaru’s home track in south Jersey , and the MotoAmerica series was there. Two wheel action. Watch the Supersport race. You won’t be disappointed. And the MotoGP race too. Incredible fight for the win. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 14, 2021 Author Share Posted September 14, 2021 Began drilling with a pilot drill , went in past my tape mark because I didn’t see any cavity/orifice yet. As it turns out the drill I brought with me is 3/8 chuck and need a 1/2 chuck. So at rest for another night. Different heads from the foundry , slight changes in various locations but effectively the same functions. I’ll try to post the differences in pics when I have time but probably nobody cares anyways....but my point is , could these revised or new editions have Less outer casting material there than the older gen ? Otherwise I made progress in other directions. 2003 below 2000 below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 14, 2021 Author Share Posted September 14, 2021 Using my pen size screwdriver I don’t feel anything as an obstruction until about 2” and I want to say the drilled hole ends just a 1/4” before that part I’m bumping into. Without looking I’m guessing a valve guide ?? Anyways , when I drill the other head can I count on that same length of casting material in that area ? So I’m holding off drilling in a full 2” for now , even with the pilot drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 Yes there's an exhaust valve stem/guide after you break through into the port. Not an issue just go till you break through and stop. GD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 15, 2021 Author Share Posted September 15, 2021 Thanks again. Stupid question maybe but I have to ask based on a Craigslist posting. Guy says he couldn’t use an automatic engine in his manual Forester I think it was. Maybe 98-99 era ? Is that a reality? Old school it’s just swap bell housings and good to go. This current situation made me think of that posting and unnerved me a bit. Should be back at it later Wednesday and hopefully drill successfully and tap the same. Here’s how life works sometimes. So I found tap wrenches , two of the longer handle type and one smaller T type. Well don’t ya know the largest one I had was still too small. But I’ll manage. Can’t locate just a tap wrench local without buying a kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 15, 2021 Author Share Posted September 15, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, moosens said: Stupid question maybe but I have to ask based on a Craigslist posting. Guy says he couldn’t use an automatic engine in his manual Forester I think it was. Maybe 98-99 era ? Is that a reality? Well on the Forester there was a change from the 25D in the 98 to the 253 in the 99. Those are electrically incompatible and the intake manifolds won't swap either without making custom manifold adapters. Or he may be referring to differences in the crank and cam triggers if he got an engine from a Legacy that was speed density...... it's hard to tell but there's absolutely ways to make just about any combo work if you want it bad enough. If you don't have a large enough tap handle you can sometimes use 8 point sockets or there's always the crescent wrench or pair of box wrenches in a pinch. I've done them without a tap handle. Again - it's aluminum so just go slow and careful and you'll be fine. GD Edited September 15, 2021 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 15, 2021 Author Share Posted September 15, 2021 Yeah I have tapped without a tap wrench. So it shall be again it seems. One last shot locally at a plumbing supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 (edited) Drill and tap went easy to say the least. Makita cordless 18v , and large vice grips. Feels good , no rattle , no play. Fed the tube as I cranked it in gently. Had the top loose until I had the bottom well in its way to seated. Of course the test of the work is yet to come. Didn’t use any thread seal. If you think that’s a big mistake let me know before I finish and drop the engine back in, please. They didn’t use anything from the factory best I can see. Now we have a couple or so minor issues. Knock sensor connector is different. And I boxed up all the spares because I was being rushed. Like 2hrs later after boxing I was told I had more time. Grrrr But I’ll dig out the old one and that should take care of that one. Next is another connector/whip which seems to have no destination. So what was it the 2000 had that the 03 didn’t ? Or are my eyes or mind failing me again ? Check the pic I’ll be adding. And then the hose at the rear. Have to guess that’s a smallish PCV but the 2000 block I’m using has a larger port there and is not threaded best I can see. I attempted to remove the one from the outgoing ‘03 block but it seems to only turn but not back out so I’m assuming that’s a press fit. If they backed out I could just swap the housings. See other pics. Edit - finally recalled GD’s early post. See below. Easy enough way around this issue. Just not a lot of time to work today either. Wish I had a full day to just knock this out. Waaaagh. Edited September 16, 2021 by moosens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 Connector/whip I can’t seem to locate it’s destination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 Port on the 2000 block is larger ID and apparently they don’t thread in and are a pressed fit so not able to just swap housings best I can tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 The port I need to fit the existing pcv into Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 (edited) “You will also have to install the block mounted PCV valve into the 00/01 engine's vent hose. I just round off the edges of the hex on the 03 style PCV valve (get a new one from Subaru), and RTV/clamp it into the vent hose (get a new one of those also) from the block breather port. “ Yeah , I knew you said this but when the time came .... Will send that sucker into its new home next round. Edited September 16, 2021 by moosens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 16, 2021 Share Posted September 16, 2021 Yep - you got it. Can't stress enough that you need a NEW PCV valve from Subaru (no other sources are acceptable). And the hose is 1" ID or just buy the hose from Subaru. An old piece of an idle air hose from a 90's car will also do the job and typically aren't hard as a rock. GD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 Thanks again. Now to rediscover that knock sensor. As of this moment I’ve gone through what I’m sure is all of the spares off the old engine and parts car and can’t locate the little bugger. Guessing that if they’re both just two wires I’ll be splicing. And then need to find out why I have an lonely connector. I know the one in front is foe the oil pump. But that one out back has me miffed at the moment. Spending more time at storage digging through parts I should have still sitting around the garage. This false call for quick vacate really screwed me up now. This engine should be back in and running today. Instead I’m wasting about two hours at least searching for a part I could probably splice the other into. Always something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 Report of a victory at storage. the one man army rolls on !! knock sensor found. cheers! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 Local dealer had the pcv but not the hose. I need to get this car running and moved so I’ll likely use my existing one which isn’t bad. What’s the deal with there being what looks like a second pcv at the top into the intake ? I haven’t removed it to inspect so I’m guessing. Barely did anything today but put the knock sensor in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 (edited) Everybody like pictures Edited September 17, 2021 by moosens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 Still looking for help on that connector I can’t find a home for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 18, 2021 Author Share Posted September 18, 2021 Never mind , it’s from the plastic air box. Thanks Subafreak! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 (edited) Engine in. Called an ally in my brother so it was a two man army for a couple hours or so. And now back to one man army time. Need to let the RTV cure until tomorrow to be smart. So it’ll crank it over tomorrow sometime. Just about to throw the accessories back on and general button up , accelerator cables , radiator , you know how it goes. Enjoy some pics and I’ll enjoy my eased anxiety. Story about using the property I’m in to follow. Long story short I was presented with a deadline that I originally had no idea of. But anyways , looking good and now there shouldn’t be any family issues as well. A glorious moment !!! Long may it reign. Edited September 19, 2021 by moosens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 (edited) Pics purge. Let me brother do the PCV placement. Fresh 1” hose , RTV and clamp as per Rick’s direction. My brother is a former Subaru tech from around 1978-82 or so. He questioned most everything about it. But after review of GD’s post and the realization that the PCV was in the block and not the intake it made sense to him. But that makes him a great tech. See ya soon. Ciao! Edited November 24, 2021 by moosens Pics purge 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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