1stSubie Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 Eek! This is a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium. I've had some fussiness before when I have locked the steering wheel by turning it to the right until it clicks when I park (intentionally as a security measure) as in it has previously resisted my turning the wheel and key to unlock it so I had to try several times. It has a history of acting up but I didn't take it in, not certain if it was me doing something wrong as the problem was intermittent. This time, though, the thing is stuck fast and NOTHING I am trying is working. The owner's manual procedure didn't help, either, and none of the YouTube videos or Google searches are fruitful. I don't think it's the ignition cylinder as when the wheel isn't locked I have never had an issue turning the ignition. It's when the wheel is turned to the right and snapped into the locked position that this happens, when it happens. I suspect the steering wheel's locking spring is tight and isn't giving. The question is what can I do? Is this the cause? I've been out several times in the last 8 hours to try to resolve this by fiddling with the wheel, brake, and ignition and it's a no-go. Hope to find some ideas here before tomorrow calling the dealership and shoveling out the dough and hoping they can come and do a mobile visit. I am just thankful I made it home from my doctor appointment and the car is outside (albeit in an area where it would be quite difficult to tow) my apartment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 Jack the front end so the tires are off the ground, then try and unlock it. Had this issue with my wifes 05 OB. When you park, make sure the wheels are straight with no tension on the rack 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 1 minute ago, Turbone said: Jack the front end so the tires are off the ground, then try and unlock it. Had this issue with my wifes 05 OB. When you park, make sure the wheels are straight with no tension on the rack Well I don't have any jack but the cheapo one in the trunk and the car is parked on a but of an uphill angle. Beside that, the wheels are currently straight already. I've had it do this on flat ground as well, although I was able to free it. This has to be some mechanical flaw... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 How wore out is the key? See if you can get a new one cut from the dealer, as getting one cut on a machine will just copy the wore out key. Theres a bar on top of the tumbler that locks the steering wheel. The key is what makes this bar drop into the tumbler so you can turn the wheel, but if the key is worn it doesnt drop down far enough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Turbone said: How wore out is the key? See if you can get a new one cut from the dealer, as getting one cut on a machine will just copy the wore out key. Theres a bar on top of the tumbler that locks the steering wheel. The key is what makes this bar drop into the tumbler so you can turn the wheel, but if the key is worn it doesnt drop down far enough. I don't think it's that because I tried the other key yesterday and it was doing the same thing. I thought I had a problem with the ignition cylinder when I was sticking previously so I experimented with parking and removing the key without locking the wheel and reinserting the key and the ignition turned just fine. As soon as they answer the phone, I'm going to call the dealer and see what I can do. This thing is holding like cement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 Although I did notice the last week I couldn't turn it with the key facing in any direction as before and had to flip it with one side facing forward. So who knows. I'm calling the tow truck shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 I had a similar problem with my 2017 Forester. It as the keyless feature, with a fob and push-button start. Out of the blue, the steering wheel was locked solid. Like you I tried everything. Eventually I just turned the steering-wheel using more much force than usual, and it suddenly freed itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 do you have to step on the brake before turning the key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 1 hour ago, brus brother said: do you have to step on the brake before turning the key? I did as per the manual just in case although previously I never did and had no issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, forester2002s said: I had a similar problem with my 2017 Forester. It as the keyless feature, with a fob and push-button start. Out of the blue, the steering wheel was locked solid. Like you I tried everything. Eventually I just turned the steering-wheel using more much force than usual, and it suddenly freed itself. In this case, I was always turning the wheel to the right when I turn off the car to lock the wheel as an extra security feature but as of late it was getting increasingly more difficult to unlock at times. I called the dealership and they said turn it really hard and try it again. I did and it wasn't working at first and then it gave way. I drove it to the dealership but their appointments are booked up so I cannot lock the steering wheel until I get in there next Thursday morning. I just have it parked with the wheel unlocked and my Club steering wheel lock on top. It took from 3pm yesterday until 10:15 this morning to unlock it. I probably made at least 300 attempts to unlock the wheel in that time. It'll cost $150 apparently just to diagnose the issue, but who cares. I broke my butt and paid cash for this car. Maybe I'll get a discount since it's still under the CPO contract although that only covers powertrain and and transfer case? Edited August 21, 2021 by 1stSubie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 That's great! It's unlocked. I'll stop over after dark ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 Just now, brus brother said: That's great! It's unlocked. I'll stop over after dark ;-) It is! And I did it myself. I gave it a good heave-ho several times like the dealership said and it gave. I'm avoiding locking it back up until I get it serviced, though. I have to get to work all week before they can see me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 9 hours ago, forester2002s said: I had a similar problem with my 2017 Forester. It as the keyless feature, with a fob and push-button start. Out of the blue, the steering wheel was locked solid. Like you I tried everything. Eventually I just turned the steering-wheel using more much force than usual, and it suddenly freed itself. Btw have you locked the wheel again since then? I was doing it intentionally as an anti-theft aid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Since that first event (about 6-months ago), the problem has not recurred. I do turn my wheels into or out of the curb, when parking on a hill. But I no longer force the steering-wheel over to the side to lock it. In fact I now try not to let the tires actually touch the curb. I suspect that my original problem was that I may have been forcing the right-front tire too hard into the curb to lock it. I think that the elasticity of the rubber sidewall may have acted like a spring, to jam the steering-wheel lock. It hasn't happened again since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share Posted August 26, 2021 (edited) Well, I just got back from a Denver-area Subaru dealership and they said the problem is in the ignition cylinder and it needs replacing and re-keying to fit my current keys. Estimate is $878 including locksmith. $637 for ignition cylinder and rekey. That price looks awfully steep... Granted the price includes the base $150 charge for diagnosing the problem. Edited August 26, 2021 by 1stSubie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 26, 2021 Share Posted August 26, 2021 I dunno if it's worth the effort, but you might contact SOA. A regional rep might be able to do some kind of 'goodwill' compensation. 1/2 the cost ot pay for the labor if you pay for parts, etc. Dealerships 'generally' have no incentive or authority to do that kind of thing. Just seems like an oddly rapid failure of what is generally a robust part of a car - unless there's evidence of tampering/damage...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share Posted August 26, 2021 3 minutes ago, 1 Lucky Texan said: I dunno if it's worth the effort, but you might contact SOA. A regional rep might be able to do some kind of 'goodwill' compensation. 1/2 the cost ot pay for the labor if you pay for parts, etc. Dealerships 'generally' have no incentive or authority to do that kind of thing. Just seems like an oddly rapid failure of what is generally a robust part of a car - unless there's evidence of tampering/damage...? No damage that I know of. I bought it CPO just over a year ago and it has 45,500 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted September 10, 2021 Author Share Posted September 10, 2021 So today I had the dealership replace the ignition switch, solenoid and bolt. It ended up being $709. And it's done it anyway twice in the past hour and I've had the car back barely 7 hours. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Was this covered under CPO warranty? Did you ask them for those specific repairs or did they (mis)diagnose the problem in which case you should be reimbursed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1stSubie Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 (edited) On 9/10/2021 at 12:09 PM, brus brother said: Was this covered under CPO warranty? Did you ask them for those specific repairs or did they (mis)diagnose the problem in which case you should be reimbursed. CPO warranty is only for the powertrain. I took it to an independent Subaru specialist mechanic and they said they think the most likely thing is the ignition cylinder is failing but they didn't tear down the steering wheel to inspect what's inside because one, it was a free inspection, and two, those parts breaking are basically unheard of. They had to jiggle the key to get the ignition to work which is why they said they thought it was the ignition cylinder. Deal is, I had that replaced a few weeks ago. Looking back, I'm not sure it NEEDED replacing especially with what happened today when I went to mess with the steering wheel lock. I saw on YouTube some videos that suggested a couple shots of WD 40 in the key hole if the ignition doesn't want to turn. So I did it. And after a few tries, it got easier and easier to turn even with the steering wheel locked. I just locked and unlocked the wheel about 15 times and the WD 40 seems to have made a big difference and it began acting like a real ignition cylinder again. It's one of those things, with my being a woman, sometimes I wonder if mechanics see that and play me for a fool as I saw happen to my immigrant mother a few times when I was a kid. Or maybe just some of these mechanics are idiots, I don't know, but the Subaru specialist I took the car to also did a general inspection and said that my rear differential fluid was looking kind of dirty and should be changed soon. Deal is, I had the differential fluid done 4,200 miles ago, so someone is making things up. Did I not get the fluid changed or is this new mechanic lying? EDIT: I was told by an associate that the best thing for car locks (or locks in general) is dry graphite lubrication, so I'll get some of that and keep it handy. Edited October 1, 2021 by 1stSubie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 I am female also, and yes, it does happen a lot - shops see female and try to take advantage.. happens all the time.. But, I grew up doing things myself.. too poor to hire simple stuff done, like basic tune ups, brakes, and so on.. so I learned a lot and am able to do most work on my vehicles myself. i have a decent shop I work with now, and they know I know what the heck I am talking about, so they don't try to pull things over on me. In fact, the shop owner has asked my advice a couple of times on Subarus he has gotten in the shop for work. have owned, driven and worked on my own Subarus for just over 20 yrs now, and i dont see that changing anytime soon.. As I get older, I do seem to be relying on that shop a little more for things I would have done myself in the past, but the body refuses to cooperate anymore, so... and yes, dry graphite is the best for any lock cylinder.. auto, home, whatever. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 Thanks very much for all the excellent advice by knowledgeable members here! I hopefully learned years ago to defer to the experts when they are doing their job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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