EA82 replacement PCV/vacuum hose

[Phil Hyde]

While inspecting the PCV valve on my 1991 Loyale, I cracked the (brittle) hose that connects.  Part number seems to be 807415162.  

Any suggestions for a replacement, or substitute?

[Dee2]

Maybe cut off the cracked end and stretch it out a bit ?

[GeneralDisorder]

You'll have to make your own. I would suggest pre-bent stainless tubing for the bends, bead roll the ends, and connect the segments together with silicone heater hose. 

GD

[DaveT]

Is there a particular type of silicone hose to look for - I was looking for some a while back, and was having a hard time finding any that stated that it could handle stuff that can be found in vacuum lines - oil vapor, fuel vapor, etc...  Or am I just being too picky?  I know, fuel isn't typically in there.

[Phil Hyde]

15 hours ago, DaveT said:

Is there a particular type of silicone hose to look for - I was looking for some a while back, and was having a hard time finding any that stated that it could handle stuff that can be found in vacuum lines - oil vapor, fuel vapor, etc...  Or am I just being too picky?  I know, fuel isn't typically in there.

On other cars I have replaced conventional rubber vacuum hoses with silicon - the main reason being high heat (around a turbo).  That was small I/D stuff, however.

[GeneralDisorder]

We use a line of blue silicone hose called Purosil. There's several suppliers that carry it - we get ours from XRP in California. They have vacuum and heater hose variants - we use both for PCV and vacuum and have been doing so for years without any issues. All of the sizes have a minimum pressure rating of 50 psi and some are rated to 100 psi.

GD

[Eriklyon94]

Just use some -10 wire spiral pvc vacuum line. You can go to GZMotorsports.com and they have some for sale by the foot, won’t be too much unless you aren’t in North America. The website shows clear braided but it’s actually steel spiral. Oil safe, fuel safe, coolant safe, made for crankcase vacuum, will handle 75psi of pressure. It’s about the same size as the OE hose so the “holders” still hold it 
 

Go to gzmotorsports.com, go to accessories, go to hose and fittings, and scroll down till you see it. It’s $2.00 a foot

[Ionstorm66]

15 hours ago, Eriklyon94 said:

Just use some -10 wire spiral pvc vacuum line. You can go to GZMotorsports.com and they have some for sale by the foot, won’t be too much unless you aren’t in North America. The website shows clear braided but it’s actually steel spiral. Oil safe, fuel safe, coolant safe, made for crankcase vacuum, will handle 75psi of pressure. It’s about the same size as the OE hose so the “holders” still hold it 
 

Go to gzmotorsports.com, go to accessories, go to hose and fittings, and scroll down till you see it. It’s $2.00 a foot

Where are you seeing spec for the clear hose?

[Eriklyon94]

1 hour ago, Ionstorm66 said:

Where are you seeing spec for the clear hose?

Right there, on my GL. Original clamps work. It is literally made for vacuum and will handle 75psi of positive pressure. It is oil, fuel, coolant and heat safe. We provide it to 1,000hp+ motors so it’s plenty safe for this application. Only downside (according to others) is that you can see what’s inside, which I’d rather see anyways to know how much condensation is building up and all that good stuff. 
 

If it wasn’t safe to use for these types of applications we would not supply it to customers with multi-thousand dollar vehicles. 

We have sections of hose on an LQ4 LS swapped S-10 making 650hp and has been there for 8 years on our shop truck. It is stained from the oil on the inside but is still working just as good as day 1, no cracking, still as flexible as day 1 on both the vacuum side of a vacuum pump and on the outlet(pressure) side. 
 

 

 

[Ionstorm66]

11 hours ago, Eriklyon94 said:

Right there, on my GL. Original clamps work. It is literally made for vacuum and will handle 75psi of positive pressure. It is oil, fuel, coolant and heat safe. We provide it to 1,000hp+ motors so it’s plenty safe for this application. Only downside (according to others) is that you can see what’s inside, which I’d rather see anyways to know how much condensation is building up and all that good stuff. 
 

If it wasn’t safe to use for these types of applications we would not supply it to customers with multi-thousand dollar vehicles. 

We have sections of hose on an LQ4 LS swapped S-10 making 650hp and has been there for 8 years on our shop truck. It is stained from the oil on the inside but is still working just as good as day 1, no cracking, still as flexible as day 1 on both the vacuum side of a vacuum pump and on the outlet(pressure) side. 
 

 

 

I would love to see the actual specs for the tubing, considering that PVC pipe derate is around 90% at under hood temperatures. Flexible PCV would have even more plasticizer than rigid, thus even lower temperature ratings. 200°F is way to high for any PVC tubing.

[Eriklyon94]

Ok, well I put in my 2 cents. Good luck finding OE hoses lol

[GeneralDisorder]

You can see in his "clear" tubing how the condensate mixes with the oil vapor and forms the nasty white/grey muck due to his Air/Liquid separator. That wouldn't form with a normal PCV system that routes the condensate into the intake to be burnt. The Subaru block has it's own built-in crankcase breather box that is located in the block itself so is heated by engine coolant and block heat to prevent condensate from forming. This box has baffles to catch oil and keep it in the sump. 

GD