portsample Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 Is there a difference in front CV axle shaft length between Outbacks and Legacies for the North American 2000-2004 body style? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 8 hours ago, portsample said: Is there a difference in front CV axle shaft length between Outbacks and Legacies for the North American 2000-2004 body style? Thanks in advance. None that would make any difference between interchanging them from one to another. They’re interchangeable all day long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portsample Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 2 hours ago, idosubaru said: None that would make any difference between interchanging them from one to another. They’re interchangeable all day long. Thanks for the information. I have a 2" lift that I am trying to install on the top of the strut to increase ground clearance. The bottom bolt which connects the strut to the hub will go in, however I am unable to pivot the hub in enough for the upper bolt to line up. The sway bar was disconnected for this procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 do you have an Outback Sport ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portsample Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) 2001 Legacy GT, 5-speed wagon. Edited September 28, 2021 by portsample Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) Without the OB spacers they are quite tight to get in 2” on top of the strut. I don’t know any tricks except giving it lots of effort. I’ve pushed the strut inwards while partially lifting under the control arm to compress the strut in order to shorten the distance and angles of the CV. Once it gets partially compressed the knuckle will pivot in and the strut bolts will line up. But I doubt others have done that I had a similar problem with a 2” lift and tried many axles and they all did the same thing you’re describing on one side of the vehicle but not the other. I doubt you’ll have that issue though as I seem to be the only one lol Many on here have installed lifts so I’d ask a lift question rather than an axle question to get them to bite. what lift - are you sure it’s 2” and installed correctly - it should be offset to account for camber. Edited September 28, 2021 by idosubaru 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portsample Posted September 28, 2021 Author Share Posted September 28, 2021 (edited) This is truly appreciated idosubaru. These are offset for camber. Question: What "OB spacers" are you referring to? I'm aware of the subframe spacers in the back, but not in the front. It does seem that something is missing or wrong here: either a missing part, or an Outback specific component. Thanks. Edited September 28, 2021 by portsample Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, portsample said: This is truly appreciated idosubaru. These are offset for camber. Question: What "OB spacers" are you referring to? I'm aware of the subframe spacers in the back, but not in the front. It does seem that something is missing or wrong here: either a missing part, or an Outback specific component. Thanks. Lifts can be installed at the strut and nothing else. So it should work. 2” is the limit. 1. is yours more than 2”? 2. are both sides doing the same thing or just one? 3, I’d be tempted to disassembled the inner axle joint and make sure the bearings didn’t get pulled past the circlip or otherwise displaced. That’s the next thing I’m going to try on mine There are front spacers or the engine cradle is different I think to drop the engine/trans and reduce the cv angle. The one I had (am having) issues with feels rigidly fixed like it can’t push the knuckle all the way into the strut. I’ve installed these same components on the same model vehicle before without issue and tried 3 different axles - different year, model and OEM and aftermarket. Nothing changed. Normally a 2” strut lift should install just fine with no issues and no spacers. But no one was able to suggest or figure out or had my issues either so I’m not sure what happened. Edited September 29, 2021 by idosubaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portsample Posted September 29, 2021 Author Share Posted September 29, 2021 (edited) 1.) These are 2" lifts. 2.) I've only tried one side so far (drivers). 3.) Rig is back together w/out strut lifts and I've been driving it w/no funny noises when turning. The most force I've applied was with a c-clamp when the strut spacer was installed and the lower bolt that connects the strut to the hub was in place. Upper bolt was not lining up...the c-clamp was to squeeze the hub and back of the strut and force the holes into alignment. The clamp fit nice, but the hole seemed as if it would not align before the strut cylinder bent from the clamp pressure: so I stopped. This is very curious. I may put a floor jack under the hub and see if I can compress the strut and get the hub to strut bolts to align properly. Question: Have you observed increased wear on the CV joint or boots after a lift such as this? Thanks for sharing your experiences. Edited September 29, 2021 by portsample Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 "Should" go in. Experiment with the axle shaft into the inner joint. Occasionally those get pulled apart, and won't line back up correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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