errantalmond Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 Loyale 2.7 Turbo‘s suspension improvement suggestions convinced me to try them out - but I‘m not super car-savvy yet and could really use some help doing this safely. I’ve read through all the resources I could find and informed myself on the components of a strut assembly. Here are the main threads that discuss this modification for your reference: To start, I just want to swap the recommended ‘98 4Runner front shocks with my stock ‘90 Loyale rear 4wd shocks, keeping the same coil springs until I source some of those Honda Accord ones and lower the rear diff, and adjust the front to match, etc. One of my rear struts leaked out completely recently, and I’d just gotten the 4Runner struts in the mail, so I guess the time is now! As I understand it, the 4wd rear strut assembly, from top to bottom, consists of: A nut Another nut Upper bushing plate Upper bushing The mounting bracket Lower bushing Strut collar An upper coil spring seat plate/sheet (basically a cup washer?) The upper coil spring seat A rubber upper coil spring seat The rear ‘helper’ or dust guard Coil spring Lower coil spring seat and shock absorber. Here is an exploded view of all those parts: The KYB 341232 shocks for the 4Runner came with a boot/dust guard for the inner rod, a locking nut for the threaded top, and a zip tie to secure the boot. Loyale 2.7 Turbo wrote this about installing the 4Runner strut assembly: The Subie Ones had their Threaded top of Nº 10 mm and the Hole opening on their Base is for a Nº 10 mm Screw; While the 4Runner ones has them Nº 12 mm Screws; So the Subie's Nut on the Base for Nº 10 mm Screw had to be Removed in order to Use a Pass-Thru Nº 12 mm Screw with its own Nut and locking washer. … The Subie's Part for the Shock Absorber's Top shall be Modified too, in order to Accept the Nº 12 mm Screw Size instead the Older Nº 10 mm One, I Just made the Hole Larger; pretty easy! That all makes sense to me. What about the rest of the strut assembly components? Without having removed my old strut (it’s my daily so I have to make sure I have everything to put it back together before I start) yet to try things out, I’m unsure which parts will and won’t fit on the thicker rod of the 4Runner strut. If I need to replace the bushings and their washers, which parts do I order? The loyale ones wouldn’t fit over the 4runner struts, and the Toyota parts are designed for a different type of upper strut mount. I would like to avoid ordering both and puzzling it together if someone can chime in on this. I’ll take off a strut and disassemble it with a spring compressor to see what does and doesn’t work as my next step, with the expectation that I’ll have to put it back together as it is and order the right parts… if you’re reading this now, I am in the middle of uploading pics and adding links to this post. Please hang on a minute thanks so much Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errantalmond Posted October 3, 2021 Author Share Posted October 3, 2021 So instead of uploading pics I realized I could just install the spare stock shock I have in order to solve my immediate problem and take a look at the fit for the 4Runner struts. So I’m gonna share what I learned in a separate post, and keep coming with the latest 4Runner strut questions here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 The strut came with new bushings that i used. I drilled out the metal parts to fit the larger diameter strut rod. I also had the same issue with the spring compressor. After I did the first one I realized there was almost zero spring pressure because it was so worn out. So I just pointed the second one out into the grass, and zipped it off with the impact. It only slid like 6 inch's lol. I had had issues with the Toyota struts blowing out. The struts are longer and bottom out before the bump stop hits. I have tried stiffer springs, but haven't found anything that works perfect. I am running ProComp struts because they have the best warrenty. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 the nissan 300zx front struts have the larger shaft like the 4 runner but have 6 inches of traval like the stock struts instead of 4" like the 4 runner struts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Step-a-toe Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 also look at the rear inner arm and rear outer arm. they each have a bush. four bushes in total, same part number for all four. They can flog out, sag etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errantalmond Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) On 10/7/2021 at 7:33 PM, Step-a-toe said: also look at the rear inner arm and rear outer arm. they each have a bush. four bushes in total, same part number for all four. They can flog out, sag etc. Do you mean Toyota parts? I have been having trouble finding the bushings that fit the 4Runner strut, so I’ll try that. Edited October 10, 2021 by errantalmond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errantalmond Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) On 10/4/2021 at 7:08 AM, Ionstorm66 said: The strut came with new bushings that i used. I drilled out the metal parts to fit the larger diameter strut rod. I also had the same issue with the spring compressor. After I did the first one I realized there was almost zero spring pressure because it was so worn out. So I just pointed the second one out into the grass, and zipped it off with the impact. It only slid like 6 inch's lol. I had had issues with the Toyota struts blowing out. The struts are longer and bottom out before the bump stop hits. I have tried stiffer springs, but haven't found anything that works perfect. I am running ProComp struts because they have the best warrenty. Since I already have them I’m gonna give it a try and switch out the stock coils ASAP once I have the kit ready to lower the rear diff etc and those stronger Honda coils. I don’t off-road much and when I do I tend to be careful so I’m hopeful I won’t bottom them out too much; in any case the stock shocks really aren’t doing it. Maybe I’ll experiment further like you did once I get through the 4Runner struts. i can’t find the bushings and spacer for those 4Runner struts (wider inner diameter) yet and am wondering how they will fit into the stock upper coil spring seat (I’ll drill it out but it has cups/lips to fit the outside of the bushings, see the pictures below) i checked rockauto and the Toyota dealerships, etc. all I came up with so far is the lower shock bushing on the Moog website. Here is a picture of the seat with the new bushings before tightening everything down; since the bushings spread out a bunch I guess the fit won’t be an issue as long as I drill the seat out properly. aha lol and now that I am writing about it I am realizing that the 4Runner struts are for the front of the 4Runner, and so only have a lower bushing since they have that mounting plate in the engine bay. Is that right? In any case I’m still scratching my butt over the right bushings… Also, since the eye on the bottom is a 12mm, bigger than the 10mm stock strut eye and bolt, would it be wise to install a bushing between the eye and the 10mm pass thru bolt I’ll use? Obviously a loose fit wouldn’t be any good and I’d rather not drill the holes out so I can switch back. here is an exploded view of the rear strut assembly for reference: Edited October 10, 2021 by errantalmond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errantalmond Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) Here are my 4 runner struts off eBay, part no. KYB341232 And a picture of their pictorial installation instructions: One had the lower coil spring seat loose, it was press fit on the other one. I used the hydraulic press at the shop at my work to seat the seat, worked a charm: here it is up next to the stock strut assembly on the rear (4wd), for everyone’s reference: Edited October 10, 2021 by errantalmond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 Yep, make a sleeve for the lower shock mount bolt and use the factory L series bolt Cheers Bennie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errantalmond Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 2 minutes ago, el_freddo said: Yep, make a sleeve for the lower shock mount bolt and use the factory L series bolt Cheers Bennie Rocket surgery 101 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionstorm66 Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 Your struts should of come with the upper rubber bushings, washers, and a nut for each strut. One set of mine also came with a cover for the shaft, but they wouldn't work with the Loyale mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errantalmond Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 8 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said: Your struts should of come with the upper rubber bushings, washers, and a nut for each strut. One set of mine also came with a cover for the shaft, but they wouldn't work with the Loyale mounts. Just my luck - I only got a cover, a zip tie to secure it, and a locking nut to thread on the piston rod. Will have to find the right fit for the bushings etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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