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Unlike some people 2K - 3K is a lot of cash to me. So i like making the best decisions I can make. I have never owned a Subaru and I am not against owning a high mileage vehicle. I am considering a 2000 outback wagon, with manual transmission. the Engine has been swapped out and the "newer"  engine has 120K on it. Everything looks good, drives good, basically clean with the Limited trim package.

If I can get it for 2k to 2300 does that sound like a good deal? It also has 4 brand new tires and a new battery !!!

thanks,

-steve

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rust - avoid like plague

Timing belt and clogged idler need to be new Subaru.  $100 and an hour to replace.

manual trans of this age are likely to need clutch. 

total miles on vehicle ?  High mile MTs are prone to sloppy synchros popping out of gear and more if fluid wasn’t changed.  Make sure it shifts well and stays in all gears while driving.

AT is more reliable by a mile in Subaru world. 
 

if their check out it’s worth a look

 

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you need to confirm what Ido said about the belt and cogged idler AT MINIMUM, they should be OEM or Mitsuboshi(belt) and Japanese bearings(Koyo or other) in the idler.(if he show it was OEM or an Aisin kit - should be fine) There are aftermarket kits with very poor quality parts - $$$$ if that system fails. It is an interference engine and valve damage will occur. 

a 'belt slap' only is not appropriate service. If the seller cannot confirm the source of the parts, figure that price into a reduced offer.

After a warm-up run on the test drive, make sure the car can do tight turns in a dry, paved parking lot without bucking/jerking.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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15 hours ago, swb said:

yep the timing belt has been changed. NO rust it is a FL car. Clutch seems solid. What is AT? thanks for the response.

Excellent.  I’ve bought a few Subarus from Florida and Georgia for that reason. my current daily driver is from there.

Timing belt  - what brand and did they replace the lower pulley?

That lower cogged pulley fails more than the belt. If it fails it’ll bend valves and need another engine or valve repair for as much as you’re currently spending for the car. I’ve bought Subarus with EJ25s (engine in that 2000 outback) for pennies with blown pulleys, some with brand “new” timing parts that were cheap brands.  “New” timing belt is nice marketing but low grade sales tactic.  I’d ask what brand and if the pulleys were replaced.  

That pulley is $35-$50 from Subaru and can be replaced in an hour. So you could easily do it yourself or have someone do it later too. I always just install a new Subaru belt and pulley on one even if it’s got a new  belt to make sure it’s got a new pulley and Subaru branded belt. Dayco and other belts ocasssionally fail - and that also bends valves.

AT is automatic transmission.

check headgaskets too - that engine was under an extended headgasket warranty by Subaru 7 years 100,000 miles due to that issue. $1,500+ repair. The original factory gaskets leak coolant at the rear lower corners of the head to block mating surface.  so it’s easy to spot if you can get some light snd eyes back there.

Good chance theyve already been replaced though.  In which case I’d be trying to determine who did the job and what gaskets were used.

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