Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Fitting poly bush to diff hanger pic


Recommended Posts

Steptoe you’re a genius sometimes! 

The most comfort I’ve found using spring compressors is with my impact driver. Makes the work super quick, easy and I believe safer due to less time spent with the the springs loaded with all that potential energy! 

Did you use the same method to remove the old bush?

Thanks for sharing. 

Cheers 

Bennie

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I used the same method for removing the old bush - the same method I have always had to resort to, that being - remove rubber surrounding crush tube, remove crush tube then fit hacksaw blade and cut through the original bush outer shell, then belt it out starting with a chisel to loosen things up. This time, I used a recipro saw, saving sweat and bent what was a new blade. I then trimmed up the cut line of the old outer shell, closed it up in a vice and welded it up in order to make a press tool to remove the moustache bar bushes , in a vice. Vice power even in my big Russian vice was not enough. They will go out same hacksaw cut method I think

Edited by Step-a-toe
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/20/2021 at 8:10 PM, KiwiGL said:

What's the part number steptoe?

SPF3005K you get one in each packet

I fitted same to each end of the moustache bar the following week.

Ordered three packets to do the three bushes.

Requires the old bush outer steel shell to be removed, somehow... whatever way is your choice.

Should have done this years ago

Impressed with the feel just of the one above the diff. I picked out a moustache bar with cracked rubber mounts to do as an exchange

Used floor jack, wheels on the ground

loosened the 22 mm headed bolt with 17mm nut, and the 17's on the back of the diff, 19's on the hangers each side

jacked diff a little to remove the bolt through middle mount.

as the jack was lowered a bit, diff moved forward, kinking uni joints a bit, diff slid out of its two studs on moustache bar - first time I seen this happen. Made for easier remove and refit of moustache bar, slid diff forward and studs in first. Centre transverse bolt in last. tightened up, all less than 30 minutes to install my exchange moustache bar in.

With moustache bar out for safety, I use a propane torch to burn the rubber out, again in a safe location, bang out centre crush tube. With hacksaw blade mounted through hole, I cut into the outer tube, to make a 10mm wide tear strip to knock out with a cold chisel

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

it is a Superpro SPF3005K , and yeah, looks like this Aussie company has a US site

 

I recently purchased a rear spring isolator kit from superpro USA for our Pajero/Montero/Shogun cheaper than I could buy the two individual kits from Oz - INCLUDING postage!! The kit I was after was no longer available in Oz. 

I don’t know how it is cost effective to produce a product, ship it OS, sell it then dispatch back to the country it was manufactured cheaper than the locals can buy it locally! Good product though. 

Cheers 

Bennie

 

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a pic showing the same SPF3005K in the end of the moustache bar.

I sort of like doing one improvement at a time to assess things.

I had a torque wiggle in my rump on gear changes with a little giddy up. I asked on FB , got suggestion of moustache Bar ends , I think, as the cause of this. Another suggested to replace all three is good practice.

I noticed that the bush above the diff no longer had the bolt dead centre, so did this first. Reversing out and down the drive gutter, was a special sort of smooth silence, yet I never had noises or clunks reversing before. I did have a clunk turning in,  that sounded more left side rear, not centrally. Central bush fixed this.

With mo bar done, things are just smoother again 

 

IMG_20211020_111902.jpg

Edited by Step-a-toe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have maxxed out my uploaded allowance so can't show how I tested the bushes. I did it out of the car , in a vice and shoved a bar down the crush tube and just put them under strain. Cracks appeared close to crush tube on one end, closer to the outer on the other

Edited by Step-a-toe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you running an AWD box Steptoe? 

It’s the only way I can see you experiencing the rear diff noises you describe. I cheaped out on the fix by shoving strips of old rubber conveyer belt in the gaps of the bush. It did the trick. 

But this bush would be so much neater and all round better, it’ll be something I look into. 

Cheers 

Bennie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Step-a-toe said:

Note, this is EA81 moustache bar. I think EA82 are the same.

Turbo EA82 may be different. Someone mentioned a difference and there are two part numbers between NA and turbo

RXs and XT6s both have EJ-sized rear differential bushings.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/23/2021 at 3:38 AM, carfreak85 said:

RXs and XT6s both have EJ-sized rear differential bushings.

Maybe the auto RX as well, known here in Oz, by few as the GLTA, even fewer as the GLA, and others as an RXA. They did not get 25 spline front drive stub axles as the manual RX did. I wonder if the got the beefed up rear bushes? I possibly tossed most of my EA82 mo bars 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...