mickytrus Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 Ok, it is not an advertisement for Master Lok... Seemed like a quick and easy solution.... Looks like I have three things leaking It is a plastic oil separation plate.... got a metal on e to put in and looks like the rear seal is leaking....... so I should replace this as well what is the other thing ?? ??? left of the crank... Also what are the names of the rear seals on the heads? and left is like a Mushroom seal and the other is a flat seal that is bolted in. thanks, Micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 12 hours ago, mickytrus said: what is the other thing ?? ??? left of the crank... Wrist pin access cover. There's an oring under that that is definitely been leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 13 hours ago, mickytrus said: and looks like the rear seal is leaking....... so I should replace this as well I am willing to bet that the rear seal is NOT leaking. 99.8% of the oil will be coming from the rear separator plate.. the flywheel will throw that oil around and make it LOOK like other things are leaking. and again.. unless that seal is VISIBLY DAMAGED - dont touch it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 Wrist pin access cover thanks!.... an o-ring..... pretty standard on size ( I should find it in my kit of 100 o rings?) Yeah, I got one ........ and then the rear cam plugs.... got them coming... So like you are kinda spooking me on this rear seal....... You don't think it is leaking.? and I shouldn't really change it..... I mean I am all for the minimal approach and if OE is still working then it is better... than redoing it.......... but, the leak sorta looks like a gootee underneath the seal..... AND....... Really the proper way to do that seal........... is it to split the case? the concern is tapping it in and the inner lip sitting properly...... (even if I use that really slippery assembly luber??) Please, chime in.... thanks, Micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 I always replace the rear seal while I’m in there as a matter of preventative maintenance - unless I know the age of the seal (as in I replaced it at X date and it’s done X number of Km/Miles). It’s not difficult to put it in right, just gentle taps with something blunt on the outer edge of the seal until it’s all flush with the case. Take your time. Only lube the inner seal section that contacts the crank. If you install it dry you’ll be doing this job again soon... Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 23, 2022 Author Share Posted January 23, 2022 Thanks! Yeah, It looks to me like it is leaking. how much is questionable. Nonetheless, it is leaking and has 230K on it. New clutch old weeping seal, not a good match. Ok, I will go put it in now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 Glad I changed it. When the seal was removed. inside the two lips of the seal was completely black. and it was hard as a rock. If I find it, the seal.. I will take a picture and post. Don't know what happened to it after I took it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 So I put the motor in and got it running. Current problem being getting the coolant in.... It seems to be air bound.... I did manage to get it so heat is circulating....(hot heat from heater core) Just after a little drive.... lower hose is cold and radiator fans are running... the temp gauge is never high.... It is running at normal operating temps.... Any suggestions would be appreciated.. thanks micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 yeah so, I got about a gallon in.. and am working on the second... maybe got half pint in... Motor was pretty empty being that I pulled it to do the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 get the nose as high as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 If you got the heater working it will bleed out the rest with a decent drive. As Tex said, get the nose high (do this after a drive now), let it cool right down. Top off then go for a drive up to operating temp and then some more driving. Once home get nose high, cool, top off if required. Done. Check again in a week or earlier if needed. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 Yeah, Thanks guys! much appreciated... That did the trick. I had it on this little steep hill in the yard. So lastly, And then I think this clutch story is at a happy ending.... By the way, love the new clutch... It is so nice and smooth. and I can now rev the motor a bit... Sheeze happy to be purring again.... I don't know if there was a clutch return spring ever on this shifter fork..... feels like it would be good to have one.... can anyone send a link to one that would be close to the correct one. thanks, Micky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 No spring forum factory. They left them with the EA82s. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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