Clutch won't fully (Dis) Engage

[wtdash]

1998 Subaru Forester - Hydraulic Clutch

Quote

 

Edit: 

Following-up...I used my angle grinder to do an 'unapproved'  Resurface of the original FW and PP, and used the newer clutch disc.

 

 Reinstalled and it shifts perfectly....no grind @ all in Reverse. And the shudder I was originally fixing is 99% gone too. 

 

I just thought the EJxxx Push clutches were all interchangeable from mid 90s to mid 2000s....maybe not so much. 

 

Still not sure what part was the issue- most likely the FW I bought from Ebait- but at least it's drivable.

 

 

 

TL;Dr: Skip down to the videos to see if the Slave Cylinder is functioning correctly. Edit: I replaced the Slave, bled it and made no difference...still wouldn't shift.

 

Related to an earlier post about the Clutch Shudder after reinstalling engine. So I went ahead and replaced the clutch, etc. It was shifting OK before I touched the clutch etc. just the shudder. 

 

Work done: I replaced the Clutch, Presure Plate (PP),  Pilot Bearing, TO (Clutch Release) Bearing, resurfaced the Flywheel (FW). I took off the Clutch Fork cleaned and regreased the pivot/contact points.

 

Issues:

 

-After I installed the clutch,  TO bearing and its sleeve (Snout sleeve repair), attached the clutch fork, and reinstalled the engine,  the 1st time I pushed the pedal it went to the floor, I pulled it back up  and then after a few pushes it had mostly normal pressure. 

- I started the car and was able to go into 1st-with effort, but Reverse was a no go. Just grinding. I expected to  grind a bit - I usually either double-clutch or shift to 5th then Reverse. But it was NOT going in this time. 

-It does shift to Reverse with the Engine Off. --

- I tried to adjust the pushrod - above the gas pedal - and it made no difference.

- A friend and I bled the Slave Cylinder multiple - probably 20 ? - times and I think it's bled - no air in the bleed tube.   But I've never actually bled one. I followed GD's advice from HERE. 

-Put it back together and started it up and .....still not able to shift into Reverse. 

 

- After a couple more days of avoiding it, I started thinking the clutch fork and related parts were an issue. 

- I pulled the rubber boot off the fork and looked down the fork (see pics linked below). I noted the TO bearing spring/Clutch Release Arm Spring was loose on one side, so I put it back. How important is that spring? - ---  Still seemed like the fork+TO bearing, etc. had excessive play but I don't know if that affects the clutch engagement?

- BUT after messing with the fork I started the car and Reverse worked for 2-3 shifts....before starting to grind too much to shift again. So something I did  helped - temporarily.

 

I posted some videos on YT of the SC's movement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjwpOP1Dqws&list=PLbqrvIFGwYNxroKppXHoq_OZUL-ucDo7y

 

And here are 2 pics looking down the Fork's access hole: 

 

Before I pull the engine again, I'd like to rule out what I can do.

 

Thanks for any feedback.

 

 

Edited December 5, 2021 by wtdash

[1 Lucky Texan]

fork does not appear to be cracked.,,,,

Some folks report problems with clashing/shifting if they use full synthetic GL-5 in the trans.(synchros are spinning at the wrong speed???) If that's what you used, try non-synth lube. Or, some folks say the walmart Supertech synth-blend is good value and works.

hopefully, you'll get better ideas from others.

[lmdew]

Any progress?