Sohc Ej22 timing off 1 tooth

[Raynman1989]

I've been having some issues with my ej, overheating and high fuel usage. I ook the timing cover off to check the water pump and noticed the timing seems to be off by about 1 tooth.

If I line up one cam and the crank with their marks then the remaining cam doesn't line up but moving the cam 1 tooth causes it to move past the mark and still not line up.

The timing belt shouldn't be stretched (if they even stretch) since it's only done about 10,000ks. Should I just move the belt that one extra tooth and see if it changes anything?

Edited February 27, 2022 by Raynman1989

[GeneralDisorder]

Count the number of teeth between the marks and compare to the specification in the manual. 

You can only be a WHOLE tooth off, not a partial. Remember that. Ask yourself if moving it would make it closer or farther off? 

In any case it sounds like it's very close. This would not cause overheating. Don't overlook a possible head gasket failure in progress. Happens all the time. 

GD

[Raynman1989]

1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said:

Count the number of teeth between the marks and compare to the specification in the manual. 

You can only be a WHOLE tooth off, not a partial. Remember that. Ask yourself if moving it would make it closer or farther off? 

In any case it sounds like it's very close. This would not cause overheating. Don't overlook a possible head gasket failure in progress. Happens all the time. 

GD

Yeah I mean distance it's only about half a tooth away from the mark (the mark lands between 2 teeth). Moving it would make it an equal distance past the tooth. 

Man I've really been hoping it's not a headgasket. Only just put this engine in and done under 10,000ks on it but everything seems to be pointing at a headgasket failure

[el_freddo]

Do you know the history of the engine? If not it certainly points to a head gasket issue. Why was the original engine swapped out? 

Cheers 

Bennie

[1 Lucky Texan]

GD's toothcount suggestion is dead on. Search online for t'count for that engine. You guys are in the middle of summer....but still doubt a tooth off is gonna cause overheating...

make sure it has an OEM style thermostat with the large wax capsule, make sure there's no debris build-up between the radiator and the a/c condenser, 'burp' the cooling system well, etc.

 

[Raynman1989]

On 2/27/2022 at 9:04 PM, el_freddo said:

Do you know the history of the engine? If not it certainly points to a head gasket issue. Why was the original engine swapped out? 

Cheers 

Bennie

The motors done 220,000ks and had a full service history (headgaskets hadn't been replaced in that time) up until about 20,000ks before I got hold of it. I took the previous engine out due to headgasket issues. Guess I may as well do the headgaskets with the symptoms it's got and considering I've got headgaskets for it and need to replace the clutch while it's out.

On 2/28/2022 at 4:17 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said:

GD's toothcount suggestion is dead on. Search online for t'count for that engine. You guys are in the middle of summer....but still doubt a tooth off is gonna cause overheating...

make sure it has an OEM style thermostat with the large wax capsule, make sure there's no debris build-up between the radiator and the a/c condenser, 'burp' the cooling system well, etc.

 

Tbh I've never really spent too much time trying to "burp the coolant system besides running the engine with the cap off, will air in the system stop circulation?

Edited March 1, 2022 by Raynman1989

[heartless]

it wont stop circulation, but it WILL cause issues

because the thermostat is at the bottom of the system, the correct way to fill a Subaru cooling system is to raise the front end, fill the block thru the upper radiator hose, then attach the hose to the radiator, and fill it. This eliminates possible air pockets above the thermostat.

once filled, make sure to fill the overflow to the correct level, and put the rad cap on. then run the car to operating temp..
there is a bleeder screw (plastic) on the opposite side of the radiator from the cap, near where the upper hose attaches, that is the correct place for bleeding off any possible air.. not thru the cap. cap should be on to build the correct pressure for proper flow.

when you think you have it filled properly, make sure the overflow is still at the correct level, and check it religiously over the next week or two to maintain the level.

as for the timing belt.. definitely find the service manual for the vehicle your motor came from and check tooth counts.. they typically list two.. one from left cam (as facing engine) to crank, and from crank to right cam.. the crank to right cam is very often given as xx.5 - meaning half a tooth..

most service manuals can be found here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Edited February 28, 2022 by heartless

[1 Lucky Texan]

do you have bubbles coming out of the coolant when it is overheating? If so, then yeah, I suspect you're right that the gaskets may be done. The bubbles are from a combustion chamber. But, there are other things that can cause 'simple' overheating. A clogged heater core can also cause overheating because of the weird coolant circuit down at the t'stat's housing.