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Compressor Replacement '14 Forester


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Hello Everyone,

 

I turn the AC on today and had no cold air.  After further investigation, the compressor is incredibly noisy (buzzing, clicking, and running continuously),  From previous research, I noticed there is a TSB out for the compressor, but Subaru won't cover anything. 

 

Can I recharge the system at home from empty, or does it need to be done with a special machine when it's completely empty after the compressor replacement.

 

Also, do I need to replace the dryer if I open the system to replace the compressor?

 

Cheers

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Even though I have worked on my 2 soobs' a/c. really, if you can find a good shop, or even a good auto a/c shop, for the money and hassle of trying to both diagnose and repair the car, I strongly suggest getting it fixed by a pro. I kinda regret buying gauges and adapters, and having to 'loan-out' a vacuum pump from the parts store, having hoses made or buying them and waiting for arrival, getting an assortment of 'blue' o-rings (that were cr@p), getting a different asst. of o-rings.....

that said, the refrigerant volume is likely listed on a label near the compressor - maybe on the radiator top support or under the hood.

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27 minutes ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

Even though I have worked on my 2 soobs' a/c. really, if you can find a good shop, or even a good auto a/c shop, for the money and hassle of trying to both diagnose and repair the car, I strongly suggest getting it fixed by a pro. I kinda regret buying gauges and adapters, and having to 'loan-out' a vacuum pump from the parts store, having hoses made or buying them and waiting for arrival, getting an assortment of 'blue' o-rings (that were cr@p), getting a different asst. of o-rings.....

that said, the refrigerant volume is likely listed on a label near the compressor - maybe on the radiator top support or under the hood.

Okay, so you can't just grab the recharge units at the auto parts store and refill lol. I agree, not worth it at that point.

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Take it to a shop and have it discharged, resealed with new o-rings/hoses as needed, and charged. It might need a compressor but you won't know till it's properly charged. The compressor will make noise if the system is low on refrigerant. 

If you do end up needing a compressor - buy it from Subaru ONLY. Don't buy any aftermarket crap. They had enough problems in stock form and if there were any design changes required Subaru will have already done that with a supersession - the aftermarket may be selling the dated design that had the problem in the first place or just Chinese crap that will fail and fill your system with metal. Don't be that chump.  

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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On 3/1/2022 at 5:37 PM, Daskuppler said:

Can I recharge the system at home from empty, or does it need to be done with a special machine when it's completely empty after the compressor replacement.

Also, do I need to replace the dryer if I open the system to replace the compressor

Yes. Subarus are easy. After repairing the issue add about 20 ounces of refrigerant and done. That’s it.

Read the amount of refrigerant needed, often there’s a sticker on the top radiator supper (roughly around 20 ounces for most Subarus) and compare to the bottle contents, it’s roughly “two cans”, can sizes vary.

You do not need to replace the drier. But you can while it’s apart - they’re cheap and easy. If the compressor is bad then presumably the refrigerant is fine and no ambient air and moisture entered the system. Replacing a compressor doesn’t give much time for ambient air to saturate the drier.  Even if it was open for long periods of time I’ve never seen issues and live in a high humidity area.  But again - driers are cheap and easy. 

There’s zero need to pull a vacuum unless you absolutely need the AC to work 100% like new.  The AC works fine in 95 degree 90% humidity summers even if you don’t pull a vacuum.  if you want the AC to blow 48 degrees instead of 53 degrees (I’m making up numbers for illustration) then pull the vaccum. 
Maybe some people on coastal southern humid areas with dark cars that sit in the sun all day or something need it 100%.  If that’s the case pull a vacuum.

I have a vaccuum puller and gauges with adapters for all Subaru AC fittings and haven’t used them in 15 years. Subarus are so easy it’s not worth my time. I think I’ve used the gauges a time or two actually since then  but it’s rare.

When replacing the compressor replace the orings at the compressor - they’re the most common orings to fail by a looooong shot. Due to heat cycling from engine/compressor heat loads I guess. 

I wrote the now 10+ year old Subaru article about AC charging and repair that’s now many pages of comments long of raving success.  I buy fix wrecked or totaled front impact Subarus and old Subarus so repairing Subaru AC is about as common as it can be for a DIY person who isn’t doing this for a living. 
 

I wouldn’t assume anything anout other manufacturers AC systems based on this.  

Edited by idosubaru
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4 hours ago, idosubaru said:

Yes. Subarus are easy. After repairing the issue add about 20 ounces of refrigerant and done. That’s it.

Read the amount of refrigerant needed, often there’s a sticker on the top radiator supper (roughly around 20 ounces for most Subarus) and compare to the bottle contents, it’s roughly “two cans”, can sizes vary.

You do not need to replace the drier. But you can while it’s apart - they’re cheap and easy. If the compressor is bad then presumably the refrigerant is fine and no ambient air and moisture entered the system. Replacing a compressor doesn’t give much time for ambient air to saturate the drier.  Even if it was open for long periods of time I’ve never seen issues and live in a high humidity area.  But again - driers are cheap and easy. 

There’s zero need to pull a vacuum unless you absolutely need the AC to work 100% like new.  The AC works fine in 95 degree 90% humidity summers even if you don’t pull a vacuum.  if you want the AC to blow 48 degrees instead of 53 degrees (I’m making up numbers for illustration) then pull the vaccum. 
Maybe some people on coastal southern humid areas with dark cars that sit in the sun all day or something need it 100%.  If that’s the case pull a vacuum.

I have a vaccuum puller and gauges with adapters for all Subaru AC fittings and haven’t used them in 15 years. Subarus are so easy it’s not worth my time. I think I’ve used the gauges a time or two actually since then  but it’s rare.

When replacing the compressor replace the orings at the compressor - they’re the most common orings to fail by a looooong shot. Due to heat cycling from engine/compressor heat loads I guess. 

I wrote the now 10+ year old Subaru article about AC charging and repair that’s now many pages of comments long of raving success.  I buy and fix totaled front impact Subarus and old Subarus so repairing Subaru AC is common for me. 
 

I wouldn’t assume anything anout other manufacturers AC systems based on this.  

The shop quoted 1100 to do the job with a remanufactured unit from Napa.  I presume this is likely to have issues since it is most likely a remanufactured unit that already failed because of the known problems.  Would I be better off just spending the $900 for the OEM one?  It is in stock at my local dealer today.

 

Anything I should be wary of when replacing the compressor?  I haven't really looked at it but it looks like it's just a handful of bolts and look out for the refrigerant that leaks out.  Then recharge with the auto parts cans that contain oil.

 

Also, is it likely the compressor?  The AC seemed to work fine not more than a couple months ago.  The car is a 14 forester, 100k on it.  We live in Colorado.  The compressor makes a terrible noise and never shuts off or blows cold air.  Is there a way to troubleshoot it prior to spending the money?

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53 minutes ago, Daskuppler said:

The shop quoted 1100 to do the job with a remanufactured unit from Napa.  I presume this is likely to have issues since it is most likely a remanufactured unit that already failed because of the known problems.  Would I be better off just spending the $900 for the OEM one?  It is in stock at my local dealer today.

 

Anything I should be wary of when replacing the compressor?  I haven't really looked at it but it looks like it's just a handful of bolts and look out for the refrigerant that leaks out.  Then recharge with the auto parts cans that contain oil.

 

Also, is it likely the compressor?  The AC seemed to work fine not more than a couple months ago.  The car is a 14 forester, 100k on it.  We live in Colorado.  The compressor makes a terrible noise and never shuts off or blows cold air.  Is there a way to troubleshoot it prior to spending the money?

Get new Subaru. Or used Subaru unit and realize you might do it again someday. I would never install any aftermarket on this.

Exactly:

unbolt compressor

install new one

Charge

done. 
 

as to diagnosing - I replace Subaru compressors due to noise or poor cooling performance of an otherwise functionally tested system. 

put a mechanics stethoscope on it to cover firm noise source. It sounds like you have noise - verify the source  

if you’re positive the noise emanates from the compressor it sounds like it’s bad.

some have messed with clutches in the past so you could look into that it you think it’s just the clutch or bearing. Not sure Subarus sells them separately or if they’re addressable on that year and model though.  

 

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4 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

If he gets a new compressor, will it come with a little oil in it, or should he add some?

He should Read the FSM to see what it says and ask Subaru when you pick it up. Or read directions that come with a aftermarket (though I wouldn’t buy one!).

add a few drops if you don’t know. It’ll get distributed through a significant amount of interior surface area throughout the comrossor and lines so err towards adding if unsure.

Residual oil in the system copiously migrates throughout too, oil goes EVERyWHERE when they spring a sundown leak. so if the compressor was dry and you didn’t add oil…. Nothing would happen. Not recommending that - I’m just saying they are very forgiving. Add a few drops or look up how many milliliters  and you’re good. 

Edited by idosubaru
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1 hour ago, idosubaru said:

He should Read the FSM to see what it says and ask Subaru when you pick it up. Or read directions that come with a aftermarket (though I wouldn’t buy one!).

add a few drops if you don’t know. It’ll get distributed through a significant amount of interior surface area throughout the comrossor and lines so err towards adding if unsure.

Residual oil in the system copiously migrates throughout too, oil goes EVERyWHERE when they spring a sundown leak. so if the compressor was dry and you didn’t add oil…. Nothing would happen. Not recommending that - I’m just saying they are very forgiving. Add a few drops or look up how many milliliters  and you’re good. 

Looks like it comes oiled, as do most new/remanufactured units these days.  I would certainly hope that for $900 they could add $0.30 worth of oil.  I'll be working on it tonight so I'll post back with a conclusion to the Saga.

 

I might be in touch with you again shortly, I have a 2002 Impreza with an AC that's not working as well.  There does appear to be some visible leaks.  One vehicle at a time though.

Edited by Daskuppler
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2 hours ago, Daskuppler said:

Looks like it comes oiled, as do most new/remanufactured units these days.  I would certainly hope that for $900 they could add $0.30 worth of oil.  I'll be working on it tonight so I'll post back with a conclusion to the Saga.

 

I might be in touch with you again shortly, I have a 2002 Impreza with an AC that's not working as well.  There does appear to be some visible leaks.  One vehicle at a time though.

Www.car-part.com

Those 2002s usually just need new orings where the high and low pressure lines bolt to the compressor.  Remove, replace $1 worth of orings and recharge. I’ve fixed those in 15 minutes. 

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