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Well, now the Idle wont go low enough for SMOG on the '78


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OK you have two screws to play with. There is the idle adjustment screw which is pretty obvious (on the left front of carb) and there is the idle mixture screw which is located in the middle of the carb. Now when you lower the idle of the car, you must get it where you need to BEFORE you mess with the mixture screw. Once you get it to the right idle, start turning the mixture screw clock-wise until the car starts to run really rough. It is now too low but according to the FSM, this is where it must be in order to adjust it. So once it gets to the point of running rough/wanting to die, you must turn the screw counter clock-wise 2 1/2 turns. Now its set. I hope this helps ya out:D I sure did it to my Brat after I cleaned the carb out and it runs like a champ!!

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What I would do is sned it up here to me and a few bucks, I'll get a rebuild kit and pull out the FSM and rebuild it for ya;) If you do plan on rebuilding it yourself, be careful!! These older Hitachis are VERY temprimental little buggers and if it doens't get done right, it won't run right....Go figure:rolleyes:

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Steve, clean with carb cleaner. Let the car idle, then spray GOBS of carb cleaner into the carb and let it choak out and die. Then start the car and do it again.

 

Then step 2:

Same as step one, but dont let it die. Spray carb cleaner in the carb, and when it starts to studder out like its about to die, then cover the carb with something (like a piece of cardboard or a rag) to block all the airflow.. then it will chug chug, and die. But try to keep it running. Pull the cardboard or rag off the carb and let it come back to life. Do this a few times, and it'll clean all the crap outa your carb. Its a cheap, quick and very effective way of cleaning crap out of your jets.

 

-Brian

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Too late, its all dismantled :-p

 

I took off the carb, EGR, vacume regulator, and the other vacume thingy on the intake manifold. The EGR looks totally cloged, part of the throttle looks clogged too. The center gasket definatly needs replacing on the carb.

 

I found a couple more problems too :(

 

The distrubutor looks like its leaking oil from underneeth where it sits on the block. There is another Oil leak behind the crank pulley, im not sure if its the one where the oil pump is or behind the crank though.

And I have a frayed wire on the wiring harness right bellow the middle of the Radiator... :(

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the leak is most likely from the oil pump, they're notorious for leaking there. You should look into getting a complete engine gasket kit. They run for around $100 and will have all the gaskets you need, including a rebuild kit for the oil pump (just 3 or 4 rubber o-rings). That'd seal the engine up nicely and keep it from leaking again.

 

Did you tear into the carb? I wouldnt suggest it unless you have a rebuild kit for that carburator (or a replacement carb) Since its off the car it'd be a good time to spray it down good with some carb cleaner. Try not to tip the carburator upside down, its a rule of thumb with any carb.

 

-Brian

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I dont want to spend $100 on a full engine kit when I probalby wont use most of it. Just the oil pump gaskets would be fine, along with the carb gaskets, EGR gaskets, vacume regulator gaskets, and maybe the distributor gaskets. The EGR and distributor I would presume would be the same as some of the later model gaskets, but I dont know for sure.

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When I got my wagon, it leaked from the disty and the crank main seal was SHOT so it sprayed oil all over the engine bay. I had also noticed that it was leaking form the oil pump and I found out later when I dismantled it, the oil pump had some nasty score marks inside the housing so on went a new oil pump (well used but it good shape). As for spending 100 bucks on an engine kit, check ebay. I got mine off of ebay for $20.95 shipped. Also I've gotten a full carb kit from Knects for like 25 bucks and it includes everything so there ya go on that one. The disty has an O-ring around it to prevent the oil from coming up. Now cleaning the carb, I soaked it in Chem-tool overnight and then sprayed it down with a can of carb cleaner. Worked pretty well if ya ask me:D Now my Brat runs like a champ and talk about the fatty posi burnies in RWD.....;)

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Nope, just pull the crank pulley off, pry it out with a screwdriver but be careful not to damage the block, lube up the seal, then pound a new one in using a socket thats the same size diameter as the outer portion of the seal.
Awesome. Thats what I thought it was like.
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Yeah, these engines are super simple to work on. You'll never have to worry about a timing belt :)

 

You can find the gasket kits alot cheaper off of ebay, and you will use alot of it. It'd be a good idea to replace the carb gaskets, and the intake manifold gaskets. If your oil pump is leaking, you'll have everything to fix that, along with the water pump, oil pan, valve covers etc...

 

There's always gasket paper and an exacto :) Sometimes thats the only way.

 

-Brian

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I have found on EVERY Gen 1 I have, that a high idle is related to a "too tight" accelerator cable. If you loosen the screw holding the cable while the car is running, the throttle will fall forward and the idel will decrease. When tightening the screw for the accel cable, keep FIRM downward/closed position pressure on the throttle. Otherwise the cable will pull it up just enough to cause a high idle with a completely backed off idle screw.

 

 

 

Todd

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Thats not the problem, because if I did loosen it, it would still die, because it would not idle under like 1200rpms.

 

Anyway, the Carb is Officially dismantled :) Its in all its pieces not, sans the throttle/choke shafts which I left on there.

 

There was a HUGE crack in the thick gasket that sits between the throttle and carb, along with several cloged vacume spots in the regulator and some of the vacume shafts too... The throttle might have a vacume leak, its really loose and I dont think that is normal. There is a brass ring on the outside, and it looks like it should be tighter than it is.

 

BTW, Who carries alot of the carb cleaner? (other than just the bottled kind, or is that the kind I am supposed to use?)

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the junk they sell in gallon size cans is worthless. I soaked a carb in it for a week and it still came out dirty. its some strange chemicle that smells really bad but will not clean. the spray stuff is your best bet. use gloves and glasses.

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Pressurized cans of carb cleaner ususally works best. I have a parts bin that i'll spray over, and it will collect alot of cleaner after a while. You can then use that cleaner and an old toothbrush to scrub stuff clean.

 

The presure of the can is good for blowing dirt out of jets and small passages.

 

If you get a rebuild kit for that carb, you will get alot of those small o-rings and brass pieces. Should also come with all the gaskets for the carb too.

 

-Brian

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Well I spent like an hour at Maita Subaru trying to see what parts still existed for the car in terms of gaskets... I managed to get the EGR gasket, oil pump gasket kit, and the valve cover gaskets. However, all of the carb gaskets are discontinued, or at least not in the US :( Cant even get the nice cork gasket for the carb like everyone says to get.

I'm emailing Roo-builders right now about getting a gasket kit. Ive seen a couple other odds n ends web sites that carry kits it looks like, but im not sure whats in them (doesnt say).

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