Rafavidmess Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 (edited) Hi to All, As I have posted in the "Old Gen" Forum, I started from repairing to doing some major Mods to My 1990 MV. Including a 5Sp 4wd DR trans and an EJ 22 Engine swap. For the trans Swap I bought what I supposed should be a "complete kit", this is a GL 5Sp 4wd DR + Rear diff.... I was quite shure that my original 4Sp 4wd DR and the new would have different gearing. BUT when I was attempting to do the rear diff swap I noticedBoth are 3.700 Is this OK...or did I got a non matching Transmission-Differential package. Best regards! Edited September 20, 2022 by Rafavidmess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 This is normal. The MV and the L series both have 3.7 ratios available with their gearboxes. Less work for you! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted March 23, 2022 Author Share Posted March 23, 2022 Great!! Thanks Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 Check the code on the transmission by the starter. You can usually google that code and find a listing that will tell you the gear ratio. I would have guessed a 5MT 4WD DR to be a 3.9, but 3.7 is certainly possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted March 24, 2022 Author Share Posted March 24, 2022 Thank You @Numbchux!! Saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 Hi to All, Long time since my last post. Well, my Brat is electrically (almost) solved, but a new issue arised... It was supposed to happen, but not that early. Long story Short... for the EJ 22 on Brat retrofitting I bought a 1990 Legacy. Very cheap, but in very bad condiction. With the wiring and the engine peripherials it was enough for the money. The engine runned smooth, but it was corroded as they used acid instead of coolant. Made a fast fix, just to get it running. The engine did it´s job, but after short water is getting into the oil again = dead. There is a totaled 3rd gen Legacy near me, the Long block is available... Will my peripherics from G1 EJ 22 fit into this block? Best regards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 @Rafavidmess- all you really need is the block. Use the intake manifold from your conversion, swap the crank and cam sensors (shouldn’t be needed) and off you go. It would be a good time to do the head gaskets before putting the engine into service, it’ll pay off in the long term. What makes you say the previous owner of your donor vehicle used acid as coolant? If the engine sat for a long time without coolant the passages will form corrosion, that’s normal. I’ve not heard of this causing an issue, just keep an eye out for a blocked radiator if you don’t clean it out the best you can, even then the radiator could block up still. The original donor engine could just be due for its head gaskets to be changed. If it’s been severely overheated the other EJ22 you’re looking at could be the better option. But second hand is always a guess… It’s a difficult situation to be in knowing how hard you’ve worked to get so close to your end goal! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 Hi Bennie! The “acid” condition was just a joke. I don’t know the whole history of this car. What I know is that it was almost trash when I bought it. I changed head gaskets, timing kit and water pump. That’s when I noticed the deep corrosion. One of the cylinders was so corroded that only 2-3 mm of seating space for the head gasket were left at the combustion chamber. Some details of the available block: - It’s an EJ 20 with about 120.000 km on it, from a 2001 Legacy third gen. - if I buy it, I will go for timing, head gaskets and water pump. - I can see heads are different ( still an sohc, but a little wider), thus I don’t know if my intake/ exhaust manifolds will fit this block. saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 Hey Rafa, Sorry I missed the acid joke! That EJ20 is the phase two engine, heads are different. But since you’re doing head gaskets anyway, the heads from your original donor engine will bolt on. Just make sure the cooling fluid passages are clear between the block, heads and head gaskets. If your phase 1 heads are corroded on the firing ring, you’ll need to find another set of heads. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 Thanks Benny! Yes...my phase 1 Heads are also corroded on the firing ring . Will keep on looking...seen some on FB in Chile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 Last Update I found a EJ 20 Short Block that seems in good condition for a very low price. Hope this week I can do the swap. BTW...does anyone knows which is the cable that sends the engine temperature signal? Should it come from the ECU or it is just a direct Connection? Saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 Also changed the topic name... The Original didn´t say much about my project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 21, 2022 Share Posted September 21, 2022 19 hours ago, Rafavidmess said: BTW...does anyone knows which is the cable that sends the engine temperature signal? Should it come from the ECU or it is just a direct Connection? Good question mate! The early engines had two temp sensors - a single wire sensor for the gauge and a two wire sensor for the ECU. I believe at some point, or with the phase two engines, they moved to only having the two wire sensor for the ECU. What I recommend doing is finding a good spot to put the original EA81 temp sender unit into the coolant crossover pipe. You’ll need to test fit the intake manifold and other accessories to find a location where it won’t be in the way of anything. Mark the spot. Have someone weld more metal to the coolant crossover pipe then drill and tap this weld to fit the temp sender unit. An alternative (somewhat easier) way to do this is to put it in the heater line from the engine to the heater core - avoid the return line! Put the sender unit inline in a metal tube, then run an earth wire to this metal tube so the sender unit works. Something like this (pic below) in 16mm or 5/8th heater hose ID size, but with the temp sensor hole being big enough for the EA81 sender unit. Use the factory temp sensor wire to make the gauge on the instrument cluster work and display properly. Using the EJ sender doesn’t read properly on the EA gauge as their calibration isn’t the same! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted September 21, 2022 Share Posted September 21, 2022 30 minutes ago, el_freddo said: Good question mate! The early engines had two temp sensors - a single wire sensor for the gauge and a two wire sensor for the ECU. I believe at some point, or with the phase two engines, they moved to only having the two wire sensor for the ECU. small clarification In the late '90s, they transitioned to a single 3-wire sensor, which still performed like 2 separate sensors (2 wires for the ECU, single wire resistance-to-ground for the gauge). And then around 2008, they transitioned to a single 2-wire sensor only feeding the ECU, which then outputted a signal via CAN to the gauge cluster. Yep, you can use your EA81 sending unit with a little modification. Or you can wire a resistor in to modify the EJ signal for the EA dash (I know this works on the EA82s, I think the EA81s as well). That's in my write-up. Or, just wire the EJ sensor to the EA gauge, and it will read about 1/2 what it used to, but will still give you some information. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted September 22, 2022 Author Share Posted September 22, 2022 Thanks @Numbchux and @el_freddo!! Great ideas. I think I have 2 sensor in the water Crossover pipe...I was just wondering what were they for. This afternoon will look for the easyer way with the stufff I have at my shop. Saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Just this weekend I saw an interesting setup that used some brass fittings to adapt the EA temp sender into the EJ temp gauge sender hole. Yes it removes the sender unit away from the coolant crossover pipe an inch or so but it would still be accurate enough and give a better reading than the EJ sender unit talking to the factory EA gauge. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted November 13, 2022 Author Share Posted November 13, 2022 Hello to All, Some updates: - For now I am working with the EJ sender into my EA Dash, Works fine when you know that halfway is maximum. I will leave the accurate measurement in the "nice to have" list. Now I am having a bit more urgent issue. When Testing hard my new engine (New block + 1 new head) the gearbox starts doing weird things. When I accelerate I have no trouble at all, but if (After hard acceleration) I loose the pedal, the gearbox will jump out of gear, it happens in almost every Gear (haven´t tried in 4th and 5th, due to the speeds involved). It doesn´t jump completely out (and makes the sema sounds as when you miss a shift), and if I accelerate immediately after, the gear will get back in. All shifts enter smoothly and in normal condictions it also runos noiseless and smooth. The gearbox is a dual range 5spd that came from a Loyale. Could it be a shifter linkage Issue? As always, thanks in advance for your wisdom. Saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted November 16, 2022 Author Share Posted November 16, 2022 Last Update, Reading other posts on the forum I decided to start by the basics: Do an oil change and a Gearbox Flux.... Just remembered that the Gearbox was with the oil it came with, and as I found out in my forum investigation, clean oil in the dipstick doesn´t mean clean oil in the gearbox. Long story short: The dropped oil was filthy, and the drain plug had some kind of mud on it, though no big chunks. Refilled with 10W 40 Diesel Sinthetic motor Oil (Lots at hand due my machinery business) and went driving. At the beginning it was the same, but after 5-10 minutes driving the gears stopped popping out and I could even downshift for motor braking without gears disenganging...and it kept getting better and better... Think I will leave this oil for a short period (200-300 km) and drain as hot as possible to clean everything up. Hope it´s enough. Still I have to be carefull with downshifting for motor braking, but if done smoothly gears will engage perfectly. Saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 18, 2022 Share Posted November 18, 2022 G’day Rafa, Do you have a pitch stopper rod installed or shot gearbox mounts? This issue is induced from not having a pitch stopper rod or shot/broken gearbox mounts too. Hopefully it’s as simple as the oil change. I’ve not heard of the diesel oil flush trick, I’d be worried about it not being up to the task. Cheers Bennie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted December 5, 2022 Author Share Posted December 5, 2022 (edited) Hi Bennie I Don´t have the Pitch stopper Rod Installed... than may be the Issue. Today I will work on It I know Gearbox Mounts Are OK Thanks a lot for the advice! Saludos! Rafa Edited December 5, 2022 by Rafavidmess UPs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted December 8, 2022 Share Posted December 8, 2022 (edited) The pitch stop rod is a Must! You will break both motor mounts quickly with out it. Then the engine will open your hood for you Edited December 8, 2022 by Crazyeights 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share Posted January 18, 2023 Hello to all, Kept on going with my project, I think I might be on the Final Straight.... I Installed a Pitch stop Rod and the gearing Issues are now gone. Now I have to get the car ready for our "Revision tecnica" (tech inspection for road worthiness), thus I need to have the backup light working. Does anyone know what cable (or cables) of my 5Spd dual 4wd gearbox (taken from a Loyale) are the ones from the Reverse sensor?...and where should I connect them? Also, the lambda sond of my engine (1990 MPFI EJ 22...with a 200? EJ 20 Block) had all the cables cut. I bought a Standard 3 cable Bosch sond. Do you know how it should be connected? I have a Chilton manual, but I couldn´t find this infor there. Saludos! Rafa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 5 Author Share Posted April 5 Hello to All, I am feeling a bit ashamed of not entering the forum for so long. short update: - Iended up changing my gearbox due to the problems of the previous one. Also a dual range that is supposed to come from a Loyale (same housings at least). - Also bought a rear disk brake kit form a Loyale turbo… not installed yet. Everything else working fine. Today I installed the rear pro shaft and found out that rear diff ratio does not match with gearbox ratio. My diff is a 3.700. now searching for the codes of my new gearbox to know the matching diff… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafavidmess Posted April 5 Author Share Posted April 5 Found a number… 052286 in a sticker on my gearbox. ¿Do you know where to look for the right rear diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 @Rafavidmessno need to be ashamed for not logging in for so long, life gets in the way at times… What model L series did you gearbox come out of? They’re either 3.7 or 3.9 What you can do is put it in 4wd when stationary and gently ease out the clutch in 1st gear. You will know pretty quickly if the diff ratios are mismatched. We have an L series that was converted from 3.9 auto to 3.7 manual without changing the rear diff as we just needed the car going asap. If in 4wd we can move it less than 10 metres before it feels like someone engaged the handbrake. This is the 4wd system binding up due to the two different diff ratios. Go really gentle - first gear idle and you’ll soon know if you’re good to go in 4wd or if you need a 3.9 rear diff ratio to swap in. It’s good to see you drop in and give an update again! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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