thealleyboy Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 Hey Guys: Opening up a 2nd post while I'm dealing with my 2003 OB timing belt timing jump failure. I'm putting this "project" car into use out of necessity while the OB is down, In a nutshell, I have a 98 Forrester (A/T) in which the prior owner had installed a 97 2.2 (A/T). The car runs, but has some bugs which have prevented it from being a reliable driver, so it has sat for a while. From what I can tell, the 98 Forrester 2.5 intake was installed onto the 2.2 motor, and the 2.2 coil pack was bolted on with only 2 of the 4 bolts lining up correctly (indicating the use of the 2.5 manifold). The wiring is REALLY funky. I suspect the intake harness was swapped over from the 2.2 since it does have the correct 2.2 coil pack connector. Also, I can see where where some splicing was done at the main wiring harness point with one of the pin outs connected outside of the plastic connector housing. Apparently, whoever did the swap knew enough about wiring to get it marginally correct since the car does run. But the check light is on, and I cannot read the ECU - so getting the pins straightened out at the OBII connector to pull codes is another issue that must be addressed regardless. So.....my question is whether I should work with what I have (with the 98 Forrester intake), or start over with a 97 2.2 intake, 2.2 wiring, 2.2 coil pack, etc. Is the 98 2.5 Forrester intake close enough - with the mods this guy has apparently done - to make this car run reliably over the long haul? Is the correct OEM 2.2 manifold critical for this particular swap?? Appreciate your input ... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 I should add that my assumptions are solely based on the coil bolt pattern not lining up with the manifold.. It is possible that the manifold could be from 2.2 with the newer coil pack design, Maybe not all 97's used the same coil pack during that year. But I can tell you for certain that the 2.2 motor was the old style design with the grooved valve cover gaskets and not the 99 2.2 design. It could be a 98 I suppose(??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 EGR or no EGR? If the wiring mods are on the intake side of the connector, it may be easier just to grab a 2.2 manifold and install it. www.car-part.com is a good source. If you have self-server yards near you that's even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 It's either an EJ22 engine and intake manifold, or the year of the forester is off. Need to clear that up. It's probably an Ej22 manifold they hacked up. There are different coil packs. Swap in another manifold or wiring harness. 1. How positive are you it's a 1998 MY (not VIN plate date stamp) Forester? Phase I EJ22 into a 99 forester would need significant customization to get it to idle and run properly (issues you're having). If it's a 99 MY Forester with an older EJ22, this is tricky to work around - prop the throttle body open just so it idles would be the first step to get it more usable. 2. A 1998 MY Forester manifold doesn't bolt up to an older EJ22 engine. So that's why I assume it's an EJ22 engine and intake, and you should just install another intake manifold or wiring....if the 1998 year is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 Yep, I would assume 2.2 engine/intake manifold and 2.5 wiring, electronics (including the coil pack). I did a 94 2.2 into a 96 Outback years ago, and that's how I did it. Worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 Great feedback guys!! IM yes it does have the EGR. The wiring splice is at both the main and intake harness but only affects one wire as far as I can tell. I can get a 97 2.2 intake manifold, but it sounds like there are two versions of coils used. My intake has three terminals on both the coil pigtail and harness side. The coil is smaller than whatever originally bolted to the intake and only two of the mounting holes line up IDS I pulled the VIN and it is coming up as a 98 MY. Serial # is 53483 and all indications are that it is a 98. Based on what you say about the 98 Forrester manifold not bolting up to a 2,2, it sounds like a phase one 2.2 motor and intake (not sure about intake wire harness) NC The coil pack thing is what is a big mystery to me right now. Does any one know if there were two different versions of 97 2.2 intakes for different coils? My coil has 3 terminals and a pigtail but does not bolt up to the manifold correctly. I found one online that does seem to be correct for the manifold installed, but has the connector in the coil housing and (I think) 4 terminal wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 Yes I’ve seen it. It doesn’t need to “bolt up properly”. It can be installed in the trunk, thats immaterial. I’ve bolted them up just like that before where all the holes aren’t the same. It’s been awhile but I think you can use any Phase I coil pack if you swap the pig tail for it. I don’t recall which models have which coil packs. Look up 95 and 96 and 98 EJ22 coil packs. Or EJ25. You’ll probajg see different ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) i can confirm that all the way to 2004 Foresters have the central coilpak.. driving one now. and i believe that the 05 MY parts car we have also has the same.. would have to double check to be sure, tho. as to the physical size - makes no difference - if the engine runs, it is fine Edited March 30, 2022 by heartless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 .02 incoming: '95-'98 2.2 IM's with EGR (should be all 2.2 from AT-equipped cars) to match '98 Forester ECU, double check the coil pack AND the knock sensor connectors. The KS connector can be easily swapped - if you have it. There's also some vacuum line changes in there for emissions: Older - Charcoal Canister up front; Newer-in the rear under passenger side. Last ditch option: '92-'94 2.2 IM's (with the red side-feed injectors) with a '95-'98/'99 (OB/LGT/SUS) harness and Throttle Body will work, but you'll throw the EGR code, which won't affect drivability (much) from what @IDOSUBARU and others have stated in the past. I'd just avoid those as they're getting scarce - Based on my last PullnSave yard visit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 Hey WTD: 99% certain that the intake manifold and intake wiring is 95-98 with 97 being the most likely. I have verified by looking at another 98 Forrester with stock setup that the OEM intake and wiring are different,than mine with the main difference being the 4 pin coil pack. I'll double check the knock sensor, vacuum and canister. Another issue I will start looking at tonite is the OBD port which may also have been hacked, as well, and cannot read codes from the scanner. Hopefully its just loose pins. Also this is an S model with an alarm system,that someone attempted to disable, and its automatically locking up the doors shortly after startup When I can pull the error codes again,that should give more clues as to what exactly has been done with the intake at least,,, thanks for your comments!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) There was the Subaru-dealer-installed 'alarm' system that used the same remotes as the keyless entry: https://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm But it doesn't 'auto lock' on my '98 Foz, so yours may be aftermarket? Also, there might still be (I keep forgetting to check mine), the old school OBD1 Black connectors under the dash: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm Those might help, too. Not to be confused w/the Green connectors used to run diagnostics on the sensors/relays, etc. And I'd check your OBD2 reader on another car to ensure it's working....I had one die on me...but it was the $20 Wallymart version. Edited March 30, 2022 by wtdash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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