2nd gen Ej22e maintenance and advice

[Liftedlego96]

I retract my previous edit. Goodish info ahead, keep reading! Lol

Edited April 3, 2022 by Liftedlego96
Off topic responses....... Back on track!

[lmdew]

Fix things when they fail.  Hope you did the cam and crank seals as well as the oil pump seal and rear plate screws when you were in there for the timing belt.  If not, leave them until they start leaking.  

Rear Breather plate reseal, when you do the clutch and flywheel.

Great car.  Keep the fluids full and clean and you are good to go.

NGK copper core plugs and wires or Subaru wires.

Enjoy!

[el_freddo]

Sounds like a bit of an exercise in lightening one’s wallet to me. 

Why were the CV shafts swapped out, was there anything wrong with the old ones? You know you can repack the original with grease and they’re god to go again, they’re also the best option (OEM). 

Same for the coil pack, why was it swapped and what was it swapped with? 

Rear wheel bearings, leave them alone unless there’s actually an issue/noise/wheel wobbles when in the air. You’re more likely to stuff up a wheel bearing swap or replace a good working bearing with an inferior product. 

“Don’t fix what isn’t broken” - but certainly go through and replace all the fluids with quality products. They don’t have to be race spec, just good quality that does what you need them to do. 

As for the gearbox - make sure the oil used meets the requirements of Subaru. This could be found in the owners manual and certainly in the FSM that’s downloadable from various places on the net. 

Only real issue is running tyres of different makes or sizes, this can wear out the centre diff causing a binding situation when turning, you’ll hear a clunking sound. I believe this is a Gen3 issue when they changed the design of the centre diff but I’m not 100% sure on this one for the Gen2, thought it worth mentioning though. 

If/when you pull the engine it’s a good time to swap out the rear air oil separator plate for a metal one, yours is most likely plastic and is prone to leaking. It’s a good time to reseal the gudgeon pin access plate and replace the rear main seal if it’s the original one. 

Pulling and checking the oil pump is worth the effort too. You might find one or two rear plate screws that are finger tight, or they might all be fine too. Replace the rubber O ring while you’re in there.

I hope this helps. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[laegion]

1 hour ago, el_freddo said:

Sounds like a bit of an exercise in lightening one’s wallet to me. 

Why were the CV shafts swapped out, was there anything wrong with the old ones? You know you can repack the original with grease and they’re god to go again, they’re also the best option (OEM). 

Same for the coil pack, why was it swapped and what was it swapped with? 

Rear wheel bearings, leave them alone unless there’s actually an issue/noise/wheel wobbles when in the air. You’re more likely to stuff up a wheel bearing swap or replace a good working bearing with an inferior product. 

“Don’t fix what isn’t broken” - but certainly go through and replace all the fluids with quality products. They don’t have to be race spec, just good quality that does what you need them to do. 

As for the gearbox - make sure the oil used meets the requirements of Subaru. This could be found in the owners manual and certainly in the FSM that’s downloadable from various places on the net. 

Only real issue is running tyres of different makes or sizes, this can wear out the centre diff causing a binding situation when turning, you’ll hear a clunking sound. I believe this is a Gen3 issue when they changed the design of the centre diff but I’m not 100% sure on this one for the Gen2, thought it worth mentioning though. 

If/when you pull the engine it’s a good time to swap out the rear air oil separator plate for a metal one, yours is most likely plastic and is prone to leaking. It’s a good time to reseal the gudgeon pin access plate and replace the rear main seal if it’s the original one. 

Pulling and checking the oil pump is worth the effort too. You might find one or two rear plate screws that are finger tight, or they might all be fine too. Replace the rubber O ring while you’re in there.

I hope this helps. 

Cheers 

Bennie

I'm not sure that a viscous center diff would bind. I think that's only the wet-plate clutch style.

[laegion]

3 hours ago, Liftedlego96 said:

I have a 96 legacy L M/T ej22e with single exhaust port heads. It has 158k miles on it. Is there anyone else out there that has a similar set up with more experience on in depth maintenance for these things? I want this thing to run as long as possible. I've owned it a year and it runs nice and healthy. (as far as I can tell) I've replaced spark plugs, wires, coil pack, all filters, belts, tensioner and idler pulleys. Done front wheel bearings, cv shafts, ball joints, and tie rods. 

This is my first 2nd gen subi and my first manual subi as well. I'm not sure if there are common problems that come with the manual transmissions of this era of subi? I want to go threw this entire car one piece at a time. Sort of a running project if you will. Not sure what I should tackle next, after I tackle the rear wheel bearings, trailing arms and sway bar. 

I should also mention it's has 05 forester struts stuffed in ha but I'm not overly concerned about the upgrades needing to support the larger suspension just the overall machanical health of the vehicle. Ive installed all heavy duty ball joints and cv shafts to help the situation. Any advice is greatly appreciated. And hopefully this thread will help other 2nd gen subi owners. I know the 96 is kind of the freak of the ej22e but I'm sure the maintenance and issues are similar for most 2nd gen ej22's

Thanks tons 

Did you do timing belt or just the accessory belt? If not...I'd do that as well. Try to use all Subaru OEM, or from other OEM parts suppliers like, Nippon Denso, Aisin, etc.

Replace your front and rear diff oil as well as the transmission oil. I'd use a high quality well reviewed brand of synthetic. Subaru if possible.

Replace the PCV valve. Flush coolant if it hasn't been done in a while, and flush your break fluid and clutch fluid if they haven't been done in 30k miles or so.

If you're bored and want to burn some money you could go through and replace suspension bushings.

You could also replace the roll-stop motor mount, and other rubber mounts. etc.

Also, If you don't have one already, I highly suggest buying a radiator fill funnel that locks onto and seals on the radiator so you can burp the coolant more easily. They are super handy.

Oh, and if you don't have one, aquire a Field Service Manual...very very helpful.

Edited April 3, 2022 by laegion

[idosubaru]

2 hours ago, laegion said:

I'm not sure that a viscous center diff would bind. I think that's only the wet-plate clutch style.

 

MTs get torque bind too. VLSDs in the center fail to locked, vlsd rear diffs fail to open.

5 hours ago, Liftedlego96 said:

I have a 96 legacy L M/T ej22e with single exhaust port heads. It has 158k miles on it. Is there anyone else out there that has a similar set up with more experience on in depth maintenance for these things? I want this thing to run as long as possible. I've owned it a year and it runs nice and healthy. (as far as I can tell) I've replaced spark plugs, wires, coil pack, all filters, belts, tensioner and idler pulleys. Done front wheel bearings, cv shafts, ball joints, and tie rods. 

Ive installed all heavy duty ball joints and cv shafts to help the situation. 

The best thing you can do for reliability is to stop working on the car and do a brush up on Subaru maintenance.  A mid 90s EJ22 is some of the easiest, inexpensive, most reliable 200,000 miles you can get. Do it right. 

Trans - change the fluid often. Assume at some point in its history it wasn’t and some extra changes or higher end fluid is worth it. I’d use redline or whatever GD runs at his shop. 

If those aren’t Subaru parts then you’re throwing away quality precision parts and installing garbage. Not only once but you’re basically doing a complete Advance Auto Parts mobile test bed. You must like gambling !! Hahaha  

Subaru parts also are not only far less likely to fail but less likely to fail catastrophically. Subaru tie rods bearings ball joints and bushings will give noises and show play for thousands of miles before failure is even remotely possible. Aftermarket have a much higher probability of failing instantaneously with flair. A wheel bearing blowing out while driving down the road on a Subaru is 100% of the time:

1. an aftermarket bearing

or

2. installation error

Subaru axles are one of the keenest examples. Regrease and reboot original green cup Subaru axles. Don’t install aftermarket they fail *all the time*. Sure 7 out of 10 peole get away with aftermarket axles. But they’re usually not putting many miles on them and the other 3 end up with time wasting break downs. And your car has a slight lift I think from forester struts. That’ll eat aftermarket axles. There’s almost zero chance they last 5 years and blowing up while driving down the interstate at 60 mph isn’t surprising either. I’ve seen it. oEM axles never do that ever unless you ignore noises for 20,000 miles  

There are no functional “heavy duty” parts for Subarus like this. They’re all inferior to the OEM Subaru parts.  Every single aftermarket axle is garbage and it’s well known and documented.

[Liftedlego96]

I think that there are plenty aftermarket parts that are quality made. There are bad too. Can't beat oem but I've had plenty of good aftermarket parts that lasted quite awhile. There are several brands that make "heavy duty" cv shafts rated for more lift than the 2.5 inches the original axles are rated for. That's not what I was trying to discuss on this thread. Everyone has their own opinions. 

The rest of the info given was very helpful, thank you. 

All the parts I replaced had failed for one reason or another. If it's not broken don't fix it. That's pretty common knowledge. Preventative care is important as well, as long as its appropriate. I'll let yall know how long my "heavy duty" axles last.  Side by side the axles look high quality and well made. More suited for lifted subi's. Who knows, mabey they will fail tomorrow and prove me wrong. Live and learn. But if there's a possibility they handle the added load better then its worth rolling the dice. 

[laegion]

26 minutes ago, Liftedlego96 said:

I think that there are plenty aftermarket parts that are quality made. There are bad too. Can't beat oem but I've had plenty of good aftermarket parts that lasted quite awhile. There are several brands that make "heavy duty" cv shafts rated for more lift than the 2.5 inches the original axles are rated for. That's not what I was trying to discuss on this thread. Everyone has their own opinions. 

The rest of the info given was very helpful, thank you. 

All the parts I replaced had failed for one reason or another. If it's not broken don't fix it. That's pretty common knowledge. Preventative care is important as well, as long as its appropriate. I'll let yall know how long my "heavy duty" axles last.  Side by side the axles look high quality and well made. More suited for lifted subi's. Who knows, mabey they will fail tomorrow and prove me wrong. Live and learn. But if there's a possibility they handle the added load better then its worth rolling the dice. 

It's not really about the added "load" it's about the added angle that the axles operate at. That'll effect any axle. The stock axles are plenty strong, there is no need for "heavy duty". I'm sure you kept the stock axles for rebuild?
The only way to deal with the added angle is to add spacers on the subframes and various other components like the trailing arm mounts in the back. These were standard on the Outback because of the lifted suspension.
It's really not an "opinion" when it comes to OEM vs Aftermarket. These are people who've worked on hundreds of subies over the years. This is knowledge from experience, not merely an opinion.
I always wanted to go the cheaper route too, but I almost always regretted it in the end. I mean, think of how long the Original Equipment lasted on the car? It's nearly 30 years old and some of those parts are just failing now. I don't see how cheap aftermarket (i.e. napa, o'rielly, autozone cheap brand parts) can compare to that kind of longevity. They don't in my experience.

[idosubaru]

32 minutes ago, Liftedlego96 said:

I think that there are plenty aftermarket parts that are quality made. There are bad too. Can't beat oem but I've had plenty of good aftermarket parts that lasted quite awhile. There are several brands that make "heavy duty" cv shafts rated for more lift than the 2.5 inches the original axles are rated for. That's not what I was trying to discuss on this thread. Everyone has their own opinions. 

The rest of the info given was very helpful, thank you. 

All the parts I replaced had failed for one reason or another. If it's not broken don't fix it. That's pretty common knowledge. Preventative care is important as well, as long as its appropriate. I'll let yall know how long my "heavy duty" axles last.  Side by side the axles look high quality and well made. More suited for lifted subi's. Who knows, mabey they will fail tomorrow and prove me wrong. Live and learn. But if there's a possibility they handle the added load better then its worth rolling the dice. 

Lower quality is not opinion, how much worse and if it’s tolerable is opinion.

That’s not even remotely debatable except with small Subaru sample sizes. 

The two Subaru “HD” marketing hyped axles I’m aware of the last few years were hype and didn’t live up to reliability expectations. 

[Liftedlego96]

I think this thread got off topic some how? And should just be deleted lol I'm out. Thanks for all the help with 2nd gen ej22e  maintenance and advice not naming any names hahahahaha 

[idosubaru]

4 hours ago, Liftedlego96 said:

I think this thread got off topic some how? And should just be deleted lol I'm out. Thanks for all the help with 2nd gen ej22e  maintenance and advice not naming any names hahahahaha 

Haha indeed.  Well played. Timing belt and standard maintenance items have all been widely covered in 20 years. If you’ve tackled all those jobs you won’t have any problem finding exactly what you want and need to fix on that car. EJ22s are simple reliable and well known by Subaru experts and hobbyists. 
 

The one surprise might be knock sensors - the material degrades over time and cracks, typically unseen at the base where it interfaces the engine. One 12mm bolt and easily replaced in 15 minutes.  30-45 maybe for a first timer.  I routinely replace them preventively because the eBay specials are cheap and it’s easy. 

The hardest parts to replace are alternator, starter and fuel pump, they are notably inferior from aftermarket and OEM is no longer available or $$$$. Aftermarket electric motors of any brand or warranty flavor are always more problematic than OEM.  Install 50 of them and I guarantee you’d be shocked at the reliability, breaks downs and getting stranded.  Subaru had $80 reman alternators but they may be NLA.

I drive to Mt Katahdin in Maine, snorkeling off Looe Key in Key West last year, 10,000 feet in Colorado in August, and routinely well over 200,000 miles as well as help dozens or maybe hundreds of other people with Subarus over the last few decades. 

It youre just beating around locally and only putting a few thousand miles on then you’re chances of issues with aftermarket are lower. I want like new reliability and so far have gotten it and while seeing lots of other people struggle with issues I’m usually help him them resolve. 
 

 

[Liftedlego96]

18 minutes ago, idosubaru said:

Haha indeed.  Well played. Timing belt and standard maintenance items have all been widely covered in 20 years. If you’ve tackled all those jobs you won’t have any problem finding exactly what you want and need to fix on that car. EJ22s are simple reliable and well known by Subaru experts and hobbyists. 
 

The one surprise might be knock sensors - the material degrades over time and cracks, typically unseen at the base where it interfaces the engine. One 12mm bolt and easily replaced in 15 minutes.  30-45 maybe for a first timer.  I routinely replace them preventively because the eBay specials are cheap and it’s easy. 

The hardest parts to replace are alternator, starter and fuel pump, they are notably inferior from aftermarket and OEM is no longer available or $$$$. Aftermarket electric motors of any brand or warranty flavor are always more problematic than OEM.  Install 50 of them and I guarantee you’d be shocked at the reliability, breaks downs and getting stranded.  Subaru had $80 reman alternators but they may be NLA.

I drive to Mt Katahdin in Maine, snorkeling off Looe Key in Key West last year, 10,000 feet in Colorado in August, and routinely well over 200,000 miles as well as help dozens or maybe hundreds of other people with Subarus over the last few decades. 

It youre just beating around locally and only putting a few thousand miles on then you’re chances of issues with aftermarket are lower. I want like new reliability and so far have gotten it and while seeing lots of other people struggle with issues I’m usually help him them resolve. 
 

 

Really good info with the knock sensor, I'll have to look into that. And I didn't know that about the altinators, starters and fuel pumps! That's insane. That's alot of travel my man. I certainly don't put that kind of mileage on. I can see why you try to stick to oem!

[heartless]

i dont put on the kind of miles that ido does, but in over 20 yrs of Subaru ownership, yeah.. a lot of the aftermarket stuff is junk - especially axles and alternators.

i had a forester strut lifted 95 Legacy, and absolutely loved it! ran stock axles and had no problems. make sure the boots dont crack, and if they do, replace them asap - clean and regrease at the same time.. stock axles will go for a very long time. I used new KYB struts & tophats, and OE springs.. awesome combo for most drivers.

for alternator - best option, if you cant find an affordable new OE - is to get a used one and find a shop that specializes in rebuilding alternators & starters.. have that shop rebuild the OE alt. it will be far superior to any aftermarket replacement unit.
had the alt on my 95 go out.. put in a cheap aftermarket as a temp solution and had the OE rebuilt locally - cost me $140 - a bit more than an aftermarket unit, but worth every penny.. when i got it back it went back in the car, and the aftermarket one went back in its box and up on a shelf.. it sits there to this day. 

in a previous car i had an aftermarket alt crap out after only 8 months, got a replacement under warranty, and that one lasted just less than a year. the one I had rebuilt locally was still going strong over 3 yrs later when i sold the car - probably outlived the car.   almost wish i had thrown that cheap aftermarket one in before selling.. oh well

For a Subaru, OEM suppliers are the best option for most parts. even used is still usually better than any aftermarket will be. When those are not a viable option, knowing what is a good alternative will save you money in the long run.