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EA82 FI to carburator (already converted) - PCV


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Hello,

this is my fist post. I "inherited" VW T2 bus, converted to EA82 Subaru engine. The engine was transferred in the car 10years ago, never tested, and I cannot reach the mechanic that did the conversion. I believe it was originally MPFI but now it is converted to carburetor. I think it is the stock Hitachi. The engine is running, but with some problems. I will start improving whatever I can, if I can, so I am going to post some questions. Any help will be appreciated.

Starting with the pcv system. I have done a lot of reading, but my case is a different one because of the carb conversion. My setup is like this.

DSC_1048_25.jpg.66e806a622eb78bce489ced103898625.jpg

All inputs/outputs are connected together using an F shaped connector, a T shaped connector and then vent inside the air filter.

As drwan at current_pcv.jpg Is this ok or should I convert it to something like what I have drawn at proposed_pcv.jpg?

Thank you

current_pcv.jpg

proposed_pcv.jpg

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hmmm, the size of pic and my eyes ? I cannot quite clearly see the left hand side of picture where the inlet manifold looks to be the twin tube inlet of the twin port mpfi heads and inlet set -up.....but, it does look to be and not the single tube of carb and spfi set ups. I am curious as to what the carby is, though I cannot see this combo fitting under the bonnet of a Subaru.

To comment on the PCV ... I have modified a few from standard in the mpfi twin port systems. I treat both rocker cover ports as OUT flow from crankcase and also the mpfi block only vent port at the rear of the block upper, non dizzy side - treat it as OUT . They can all feed to a catch can if you like, then vent the catch can to a line hose that goes from air filter box clean . filtered air side to the PCV valve in the manifold below your carby if it is still there. I use non Subaru-standard air filter boxes out of V6 GM Australian models that allow for easy remote filtering and hook up of PCV hoses etc, so understand your queries

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So you are following a different approach. I found the manual diagram I was trying to follow.

If I understand you have routed lines 3, 4 and 2 to a catch can and then to the filter box and also line 5 to the filter box?

My configuration joins all lines together and then inside the filter box. The difference with the diagram is that in my case 2-3-4-5 are all joined and vented from inside filter. The proposed mpfi setup joins 2-4-5 and then to the filter box. Line 3 vents directly to the filter box.

Do you think my setup is ok, or at least adequate? BTW I have no oil in the filter box, but no sharp turns for my bus!

Regarding the carb, I believe it's a hitachi. The engine was originally FI, I believe MPFI

Thankspcv_manual.jpg.36b457efd4bee1e68a175bf4f5baac89.jpg

Edited by lordvec
forgot to attach picture
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I have done three of four non factory set-ups, all likely different to each other if truth or memory, was known. One current one, the rear vent, T pieces to the PCV valve on it's way to my air box which is mounted to the right front corner of your picture .So, when PCVV opens up , it can take from whatever is in this line. The rocker hoses ...shoot, I need to look to confirm, but I usually have them feed the filtered insides of air box to save unfiltered crud somehow making it's way to where it should not. I can picture in my mind, one rocker hose dropping in on the top of the box where any oil would spoil the filter element - but it does not. Engine uses oil instead, unsure if it is rings or valve stem seals - been too unmotivated to pull out just to see if seal replacement sorts things :(

Essentially I see it as you need to allow the induction draw to pull the fumes from the rocker and rear vents to burn up any fumes while you have pedal go pedal action. When decelerating and no acc pedal action, the PCV valve gets to take over, and draw air from the rear vent or air box. I think if you have that covered, with a healthy engine, you are sorted. Try not to over think simple...pot calling kettle same colour here :)

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That does look like an MPFI intake and it looks like the injectors are still fitted too, which makes sense, otherwise you’d need a cap in there to stop vacuum leaks. 

Is the carb on an adaptor plate? The MPFI and carb bolt patterns as very different to each other. 

Do you know if you got MPFI models in Greece? I’m wondering if you only got the MPFI turbo engine over there. If this is a turbo block it will have reduced compression to allow for boost. If the heads are the original turbo heads you should be able to see some cap plugs on the back (or forward in the Kombi) of the head on the vehicle’s LHS - ther would be an oil return tube low in the head that would need to be capped and would probably be quite obvious. 

If no capping plugs in the head then more likely the NA MPFI engine which would run fine with the carb. 

Do you run any sort of ECU to run the ignition timing? If not you must have the carb dizzy fitted too. This will keep things simple. 

The carb does look like it’s some sort of hitachi carb. Whether it’s an EA81or EA82 unit is anyone’s guess from the pic. It’s been ages since I’ve seen an EA82 hitachi (they basically look the same!) but I do recall the bolt pattern between the two of them was different with the EA81’s being smaller than the EA82’s. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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Most EA subaru engines here in Greece are imported and used for VW T2/T3 vans conversions. But most Subarus running around are 2lt turbo (Impreza and Forester models). I do not remember having seen a Loyale or Leone model.

My engine has most emission control stuff removed, so there are are plugged holes everywhere! It does not have any kind of ECU. Good old distributor (electronic).

Do you know if the timing has to be retarted, like what I have read on another post, because of different timing of the cams? The engine revs up fine when under no load and I can't hear any knocking. It seems that it lacks power, but I do not know what to expect. I also get backfire when I release my foot off the accelerator pedal. I know there should be an anti backfire valve somewhere, but I do not know where to look nor how it looks like.

Edited by lordvec
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The anti backfire stuff (can’t even remember what this looks like) could’ve been removed with the rest of the emissions gear. 

Timing should be set at about 8°BTDC. This should be set with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum line plugged. Don’t forget to reconnect it once you’ve set the timing. 

I’m not up with the cam specs between the NA MPFI and carb, I’m sure they’re similar if not the same - they both scavenge between exhaust and intake valves closing and opening respectively. This is where there is a bit of overlap of the exhaust and intake valve openings. 

The turbo cams are different though - from what I’ve read. There’s no overlap for scavenging. If your block is a turbo block you’ll have these cams and also compression reducing pistons. 

If you can get a bore scope down a spark plug hole you will know if you have turbo or NA pistons in there. NA pistons are flat with valve recesses, where as the turbo pistons have a “dished” out section to reduce compression. This will tell you heaps about what you’re working with. 

The EA82 isn’t a powerhouse by any means and the EJ engine would be the better option, the EJ22 being the best option for power and reliability. You would need a new adaptor plate and flywheel arrangement though. All more $$$$s to put you off. Then to get the best out of the EJ you’d want to run the factory ECU or a good aftermarket ECU. 

Another thing to check on the EA82 is that both cams are correctly timed with the crank - make sure they’re not a tooth out either way as this will effect performance. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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The EA82M I have, M is for MONGREL, turbo heads and cams on carb block, using carb dizzy and LPG as the fuel, has been running at 22 degrees for years but if I load up with a trailer and some gear and just cruise up a long highway haul up hills, something goes wrong and I lose power at standard temps. If I stop and let it cool down to cold, I can do return trip, even heavier, yet down the inclines, I do not get the power loss. How heavy the VW Camper is may also dictate what timing you use

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