mid mount brumby Very hard to start

[docmidBratt]

Hi all

now I have a 1983 Subaru brumby with a mid mount ej20 tt engine. check my post if you haven't seen it.

It is auto manual conversion.

99% finished now except for a small problem with the starting.

Now I'm a Honda dizzy guy so subs and crank sensors and coils are new to me.

Now to the problem

Over time this problem has got worse. used to start after about 5 goes, but now

When we go to start it, it will crank a couple of times, fire one and then stop

so try again, crank a couple of times, fire once and then stop over and over again.

So jump start it with the car to protect battery.

So again we can get it to crank and fire on and of over and over again and it struggles but finally kicks into life.

Now its going it runs perfect. no miss fires coughs, runs 1200-1300rpm for a bit then drops to 800-900 rpm like all cars.

Fuel pressure 45 psi to start then drops when idle drops to 800-900rpm. normal also

When running check engine light flashes on the off continuously? if that helps

Don't no what that code is, and the power steering light is on, (its not plugged in)

All comments appreciated

 

[el_freddo]

You should be able to read your codes through the black test connectors in the loom. Hopefully they’re still in your loom and not cut out. 

Connect these plugs together (or find the pin on the ECU and ground it from memory), turn the ignition to the ON position, engine OFF. Count the flashes of the check engine light. Long flash = 10s, quick flash = 1s. Find a chart with the codes for your ECU, they should be online somewhere if you don’t have the FSM. 

Things it could be: 
- sticky IACV 
- ECU not recognising it’s in start mode 
- leaking injector(s) causing a flooded situation. Next time try flooring the throttle on start, this will tell the ECU to cut the injector pulses to help clear the flooded issue. If this gets you past your injectors aren’t holding pressure like they should 
- also check out the ignition switch to ensure it’s not a dodgy switch. Sometimes the ON position can be dicky and not provide power to the ECU, stalling the engine. Same can be said for the start position where the starter motor cranks all day but no power to the ignition for the engine to fire with, in this situation the only way to start the engine is to crank it, let go of the start position and hope the spark in the ON position “catches” the engine rotation allowing the engine to start and hopefully run before the rotational momentum is lost 
- coolant temp sensor

Well that short list got detailed… I’ll leave you to it. Hopefully that code will show something up that resolves the issue. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[GeneralDisorder]

You're in New Zealand - the home of LINK ECU. Get a LINK ExtremeX or P&P board and ditch the stock ECU. 

GD

[1 Lucky Texan]

pull plugs when it's cold - before any start attempts, see if any are wet with fuel. maybe cylinder wash-down is part of the problem?

[el_freddo]

I should’ve added, the build thread for this mid mount brumby is worth the read! 

Cheers 

Bennie

[docmidBratt]

Thanks for all the replies.

El_freddo, awesome info.

We did plug black plug in and got the differential pressure valve. (not plugged in properly ha ha)

Then no cel codes. Just when it running the check engine flashed on then off all the time.

1 lucky texan, will try the wet plugs and then injectors, Well just do the old unplug them and run fuel pump

and put some power to the pins. works a charm. 

Then back to el_freddo's  list and work through it.

Its was my understanding link ecu's don't run on sub tt 

Have to wait till weekend when i head to farm

Thanks all

 

[Numbchux]

Blinking CEL, Test mode?

 

My first EJ swap cranked a lot before starting. I didn't have the start signal wired to the ECU (12v while cranking), this changes the enrichment (choke) while starting. I bought a dry cell battery and a block heater, as it would struggle to start so badly in the winter....then I hooked up one wire. But I think I had a code for it.

[GeneralDisorder]

You can run anything with a LINK - including that TT. That said, I would suggest ditching the TT's for a single. Turbo technology has come so far since they made that junk it's not worth the trouble. Just get a larger single and simplify your life. 

GD

[el_freddo]

That was one of my thoughts too @Numbchuxbut I figured this was a factory loom trimmed of excess wiring that would use its start wiring. But it does make sense if Docmidbrat uses a “secondary” loom for ignition and start etc given the steering column and starter locations have moved. It could be that one reference wire needed in our southern hemisphere’s current cold weather. Summertime temps might be warm enough to getaway without needing the cold starting mix enriched. 

And I agree with GD - have a look at what most Gen3 B4 twin turbo owners do - convert to single to get rid of potential twin turbo “aids” as it’s been dubbed on some forums. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[docmidBratt]

Thanks guys for the info again.

Making a list to go through.

And the tt is only in there because i got the hole tt car for $400 and it was in my budget, cheap to test the concept is even going to work

And it is always my plan to go single turbo as my thread mid mount brat race says.

And thing are aligning up that my old forester is getting to the end of its life and  i have the semi built 

block to finish off.

Have a goal to be at the track the beginning of next month.

Many thanks doc

[docmidBratt]

Update

Good news and thanks to everyone that contributed info. 

Started checking thing over as above

ecu temp sensor changed to a spear we had, which tested good.

next to injectors

Took them out and mounted in a spear rail I have lying around and run a hose in one end and blocked 

the other and put fuel/brake cleaner mix in and put my vac blow pump on the end.

pumped up tp 40 psi hooked power up.

Lets say they didn't spray the best, run it through a few times and thing started to look allot better.

Did all 4 then chucked them in.

A few cranks later she sprung into life.

Wheel alignment next.

Thanks everyone, doc

 

[el_freddo]

Sweet  

Cheers 

Bennie