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Clutch won't engage.


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So I think I'm gonna try and Frankenstein my clutch together. Use the disc and pilot bearing that came with the kit, my old pressure plate, and the throwout bearing I got from the auto parts store. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, I'm only out the price of the bearing, some coolant and a couple hours time.

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On 9/11/2022 at 10:23 PM, moosens said:

I’m not family with the kit you had bought. But since you’re likely looking at pulling it all apart again I’d start with being sure it’s installed correctly no matter how sure you are. Step one out of the way I’d go with Atsugi or Paraut for plate and disk if possible. 
 

Kits these days ? Hmmm kind of tough. It’s my opinion that you’d do better to build your own. 
 

There used to be LuK clutch kits for 70’s and early 80’s. Maybe your era too.

But if building a kit I’d go with Japanese made parts from that era. And folks like Atsugi and Paraut are suppliers to Subaru OEM. 
 

Good name throw out bearing and you’ll be back on the road. Good luck. 

 

https://imgur.com/a/5dDU7DT

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I'm sorry I keep machine gun posting. I just bolted the new disc and PP to my old flywheel. The fingers are now kind of out toward where the transmission would be. Does that maybe mean that the flywheel I had resurfaced has been taken to the machine shop 1 too many times and is now too thin?

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:D Hehehe… the learning curve is steep! At least you’re learning things along the way. 

Did the machine shop shave the surface that clamps the disc AND the surface that the pressure plate mounts to? 

If they’ve only done the clamping surface they will have reduced the clamping force, probably not by much if they’ve just skimmed it but it could make the fingers of each clutch pressure plate sit differently when the pressure plate is torqued down to spec. I doubt this is the issue anyway. 

You could try putting a washer under the pivot ball for the clutch fork, this will move the clutch fork closer to the clutch and allow the fork to be pulled back further before the fork hits the gearbox case (I’ve had this before and it was mega frustrating). 

Another thing to look at is the deck height of the pressure plate from the mount plate pieces to the top pressed metal that the fingers are behind. Compare the two units and see if there’s any difference. It’s possible the old unit is thicker than the new unit, this has the fingers closer to the throw out bearing allowing better/full disengagement. 

Another test you could’ve tried before pulling it apart was starting the engine with the gearbox in gear, foot on the clutch. If the car lurches forward there’s definitely an issue with the clutch not releasing the way it should. Starting the engine in gear like this could jolt something that was a bit sticky into releasing properly. 

Lots of thoughts in one post ;) 

Cheers 

Bennie

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So I ran the car after the clutch replacement and the motor ran fine. I put the car in gear when I figured out something was wrong and started it to get it out of the garage. I ended up taking it down the road about 5 miles, and when I needed to shift I just kinda Rev matched the gears and it fell right in each shift.

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No, I'm done with it honestly. I'm just putting everything back together the way it came out, minus the throwout bearing. I cleaned to the best of my ability the og flywheel, now I'm putting it all back together. If it ain't broke, don't fix it lol.

Edited by Espey16
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