2001 OB/Bean Transmission Issues? Diagnosis?

[burtman]

2001 Outback/L.L. Bean; 3.0 Engine, 4EAT transmission, ~180k miles.

 At ~151K, I replaced Trans. Duty C Solenoid, seals, clutch plates, several drain/refills on the transmission fluid and the front and rear axle differentials. Generally speaking, the OB transmission has performed well since.

 Recently had a transmission hose clamp fail and transmission fluid leaked out.  Unfortunately, my daughter drove the Suby for several days with low transmission fluid.  At some point, a major (almost scary) shimmy/shake started in the steering wheel.

 I have since fixed the leak, but now the major (almost scary) shimmy/shake in the steering wheel remains.  Given that it was driven with low transmission fluid for an unknown time, I assume it is coming from transmission?  Does this sound reasonable?

 I have inspected brakes, wheel bearings, tie rods, and drive shafts.  All look good.

 Other symptoms:

• Major steering shimmy/ shake only occurs after the engine/trans gets warm/hot.  Not noticeable at all when initialing driving from cold start
• There seems to be a light “rattle” coming from transmission pan when cold.  Rattle subsides after transmission is warm
• After the engine/trans are warm and the steering shimmy/shake starts, there is sometimes a loud slamming noise coming from front right center when I let my foot off the accelerator?

Any ideas on what is causing this?  Is it fixable?  Does it look like I am looking a replacing transmission?

If transmission replacement is required, is it worth it?  The car generally runs great.  How much should a transmission replacement cost?

Any suggestions on where to get a remanufactured/rebuilt transmission in my area (Georgia)?

Any tips, suggestions, or feedback is very much appreciated. 

 

[idosubaru]

That's unfortunate. I'm in a similar boat wondering if the trans is hosed:  I just rebuilt a totaled 2013 outback that had the lines severed from the wreck, so I was assuming the trans could be hosed. I'm done the body/welding and now have to wonder if the trans is shifting poorly and noisy for some other reason or it just needs replaced. I've already bought the transmission.

1. Do you have any check engine light codes or is the AT flashing 16 times at first start up?
2. Drain and refill the pan for two reasons.  You'll get a look at how much debris/metal/swirls are int he fluid (or none at all).  And if there's any significant debris that's in the pan and obstructing the pick up screen you'll get that out.  Although if that's the case I'd guess that's horrible news for a trans.  Also consider replacing the filter if this debris is a concern. 

I would guess a new transmission is in your future.  If rust and bushings are in reasonable shape it's worth considering to keep. Those two things can start long drawn out maintenance. 

I would buy a JDM or used transmission locally.  Those H6's are very reliable transmissions.  I have a JDM trans with low mileage I haven't installed yet I'd sell but distance is a killer. Just drove to atlanta last month I could have popped that in the back of my forester. 

[lmdew]

www.car-part.com

[Numbchux]

The fact that it's felt in the steering wheel has me thinking it's not the transmission. I just replaced a CV axle with a completely failed inner joint, and it could not be felt in the steering wheel any more than anything else (it shook the whole car....). I've been chasing this vibration for years, and because it wasn't felt in the steering wheel, didn't even occur to check the front axles. Boot was fine, and it only happened once driven at least a few miles.

 

Does it change at all when on or off throttle? Brakes? Pull to one side more than the other?

[1 Lucky Texan]

yeah, kinda feels like more than one problem. Rear bushing on front LCA, or???

the steering wheel, is it whining? is the vibration jerky ?