4eat dead?

[1197sts]

I have a 2000 OB AT (4EAT), I think I have a bad transmission but would appreciate any ideas before I pull it. It began having some slight shifting problems a couple of months ago, it would hesitate it downshift on acceleration, and not a smooth shift. I changed the TPS and it seemed to help, not i'm not sure it did any good. Then just 2 days ago I had delayed engagement, both in reverse and drive. Up until yesterday it would still drive, got a lot worse in a hurry. It began shifting very poorly and not sure it was even shifting into all gears. It has no AT Temp light so no transmission codes. Occasionally I get a CEL P0732, not consistently. Yesterday I put in a different transmission computer, and the day before I put in a different TPS and adjusted it to .5v. This morning I drained the ATF, it wasnt too bad as far as discoloration, very little sludge or pieces. ( I have done regular fluid changes in the past).  After the fluid change it will not go into gear at all, fwd or reverse. 

This sure seems to be mechanical, is there a possibility this could be electrical, like a bad solenoid, bad ground, broken wire, etc. 

I have had lots of 4eat cars, typically the delayed engagement can be tolerated for a long time, and I have used the trans x additive which sometimes helps, I am surprised how quick this had deteriorated. Seems to be more than seals leaking or a sticky valve.

[lmdew]

Trans shop for a check?

[lmdew]

Pan dented?

[1 Lucky Texan]

you seem very experienced but, the usual question for posts like this is, are you checking fluid trans level while idling?

[idosubaru]

It sounds hosed. But I agree that is interesting for it to go downhill the way you described. I assume the pan isn't damaged/dented right? The ATF pick up is insanely close to the pan, denting in the wrong spot can inhibit fluid uptake.

Ideally this would have been attempted when it was still drivable but disconnect the TCU entirely - does it drive then? It'll run in purely mechanical mode - no torque converter lock up, no shiftings, 4WD is "locked", permanent 3rd gear no matter what gear the shifter is placed in. But it'll run and drive fine as a test. If some symptoms go away or get worse it might tell you something.  And it renders the vehicle usable/movable which is helpful.  I drove an unwworthy to repair rust bucket subaru 4EAT many years ago for a year like that.

 

On 10/15/2022 at 1:54 PM, 1197sts said:

 ( I have done regular fluid changes in the past).

Do you mean ATF and do you mean this vehicle? 

If not:

 

On 10/15/2022 at 1:54 PM, 1197sts said:

This morning I drained the ATF, it wasnt too bad as far as discoloration, very little sludge or pieces. ( I have done regular fluid changes in the past).  After the fluid change it will not go into gear at all, fwd or reverse. 

This sure seems to be mechanical, is there a possibility this could be electrical, like a bad solenoid, bad ground, broken wire, etc. 

I have had lots of 4eat cars, typically the delayed engagement can be tolerated for a long time, and I have used the trans x additive which sometimes helps, I am surprised how quick this had deteriorated.

 

 

I'm assuming you meant you've changed the ATF in this car but just in case - a wild theory would be - Maybe the fluid you drained was loaded with trans x and it needs to drink more of it to function?  

[1197sts]

I ended up changing the transmission, it runs well no issues. Thanks for the suggestions.

As idosubaru mentioned dented pans can cause issues, the replacement tranny had a dented pan, initially it ran but was producing code 75 and was shifting poorly. It ended up being the Line Pressure Duty Solenoid, also called Duty Solenoid A. It looked like the pan broke the connector to the solenoid when it was dented. I replaced the solenoid and its running well.

[idosubaru]

16 hours ago, 1197sts said:

I ended up changing the transmission, it runs well no issues. Thanks for the suggestions.

As idosubaru mentioned dented pans can cause issues, the replacement tranny had a dented pan, initially it ran but was producing code 75 and was shifting poorly. It ended up being the Line Pressure Duty Solenoid, also called Duty Solenoid A. It looked like the pan broke the connector to the solenoid when it was dented. I replaced the solenoid and its running well.

Good job catching that pan/solenoid, I've seen a few of those solenoid connectors broken before for the same reason.