86 GL10 problems

[J41YD3D.]

I’m at a loss, this 130000 miles GL10 was running fine when I purchased it and 2 weeks into my ownership it died due to what I believe is fueling issues. It’s been sitting for some time now but I’ve been throwing parts at it. I replaced the mass air flow sensor used a 300zx terminal because the stock one was shot so reworked all of that to find my issue persists. It ran better but it was still a far cry to what it was, so I read the codes and learned the coolant sensor in the intake plenum was no bueno and I replaced that now it holds an idle and even adjusts itself to sustain an idle not like before. it was looking up until I wanted to hear the flat four no exhaust rev and soon as you give it throttle it sputters and dies. That is new because before I would give it the beans when it would struggle to idle and it would give in to my demands so I’m lost as to why it’s a piece of spoob, I’m wondering if my wiring job to the maf sensor is boo boo, and where I went wrong. It no longer reeks of gas but it smokes more than my grandmother. My pops tells me he think it’s missing and there might be a dead cylinder, I think he’s full of spoob but it does pop here and there but for it to have a dead cylinder I just don’t know it’s not far fetched he’s not a Subaru dood but he’s been around enough cars to know I’m not saying I know everything but I also have a set of ears and eyes. I digress im just looking for some advice and where to go from here, there’s a lot of (with all do respect) old heads and Subaru doods that have been doing this for sometime, I haven’t give much but I’m looking to the stars on this one. Cheers

[Steptoe's photos]

when you say 86 model, there was a change over in that year from flapper air flow meter to later more popular hot wire AFM

 

I have had both, and know a little of each

It will help us help you to know which one for starters.

Do a compression test, with all spark plugs out, maybe an ignition fuse pulled and pump fuse pulled or disconnect fuel pump at pump underneath right side rear passenger seat, but look from under car. Respect Pops and his spoob.

To get these running nice at this time in their lives, you may need to do a lot of check, clean, inspect of all sensors, EGR bits and pipes, and stuff. You can learn a lot along the way, the easy way or the hard way. I still like my EA82s after starting on them 25 years ago

Edited February 12, 2023 by Steptoe's photos

[Steptoe's photos]

yeah, and it will likely want a fuel cleaner added to the tank once running, then a new fuel filter up front, pump pressure tested while running and test gauge T'eed into the line.

 

Oil seals all about cams , crank, oil pump, inlet manifold gaskets after you break a bolt each side removing inlet manifold, new timing belts for peace of mind ....

[J41YD3D.]

19 hours ago, Steptoe's photos said:

when you say 86 model, there was a change over in that year from flapper air flow meter to later more popular hot wire AFM

 

I have had both, and know a little of each

It will help us help you to know which one for starters.

Do a compression test, with all spark plugs out, maybe an ignition fuse pulled and pump fuse pulled or disconnect fuel pump at pump underneath right side rear passenger seat, but look from under car. Respect Pops and his spoob.

To get these running nice at this time in their lives, you may need to do a lot of check, clean, inspect of all sensors, EGR bits and pipes, and stuff. You can learn a lot along the way, the easy way or the hard way. I still like my EA82s after starting on them 25 years ago

I got the mass air flow sensor where it has a needle the glides across bumps depending on what setting is needed, I think it’s that flapper. I’ve got a question unrelated to the health of the car but I’ve got a 92 loyale that needs a trailing arm. I’ve noticed the gl10 has disc breaks in the back the loyale has drums im wondering if I can just swap the gl10s assembly over and I wonder if the loyales master brake booster cylinder would be able to support it? It looks like it would be plug and play if so. And I’d gain disc brakes and a sway bar. I’ll give the gl10 a compression test, I tested the fuel pressure it’s getting adequate fuel the fuel pressure is good I got around 40 pissies. I’m just confused maybe the compression test will tell me what I need. Cheers!

[scoobydube]

Does the rotor spin when you crank the engine?  If not then you broke the left side timing belt.

Can you get spark to the plugs as a timing light will show you, by plugging into each plug wire and grounding to plug?  If yes, then you can check the timing at about 24 degrees BTDC, for No. 1 (front right) cylinder.  Best to put some white paper white out paint on the 24 degree mark first.  If you cannot see the white mark then your timing is way off, perhaps the timing belts jumped a tooth.

The GL10 distributors have a short life expectancy.  Better find a backup to always have on hand and to install here.  If you have no spark and the rotor spins, then you probably have a bad cylinder.  Buy used from John's Subaru in Laurelwood, Oregon, or get hosed on Ebay.

Wires that get hard, brittle and stop conducting electricity are the hot wire into the back of the alternator, the engine ground wire at the body end, and the hot wire from the hot battery terminal wire to the bottom of the fusible link box (at the terminal wire end).

The timing probably got off somehow, perhaps from the timing belts loosening up that allowed the timing belts to jump a tooth.  Adjust timing belt tension in the front rubber pop out covers, with a 12mm socket, and don't lose it inside of the covers.

[Steptoe's photos]

the brake and arm/sway bar swap will work BUT you will see that the GL10 probably has an extra device in the brake lines at the rear that the non turbo/drum rear body does not have. Very common for this device to be left out when people fit the turbo disc rear to L and EA81 bodies. Personally have not suffered any poor brake performance with it not in the equation.

Yep, flapper, is the Series 1 of the air flow meters. 

I think there may have been a subtle difference between 4 wheel disc and disc/drum master cylinders BUT those who fit the disc rear to EA81 models make no changes, so L Series to L Series may not be affected either - if there is a difference. EA81 master has a 50 or 75ml greater capacity than L's for starters so can cope with possible need for a greater fluid capacity as BMC. No difference in L BMC reservoir that I have seen, so not see a problem there

Edited February 14, 2023 by Steptoe's photos

[el_freddo]

Rear discs swap over turbo L to non turbo L no worries. I’ve run mine swapped to the NA setup without adding anything to the brake line setup for many years and they work fine. 

The issue that comes into play is if you’re wanting to swap 4wd to 2wd or vice versa. The hub and backing plate bearing holes are specific to 2wd or 4wd, they don’t interchange (2wd backing plates can be enlarged to 4wd spec, but this is a one way ticket!). 

Cheers 

Bennie

[scoobydube]

Try replacing the O2 sensor in the catalytic converter.  They can suddenly go out and really screw up the engine.  They are cheap and it looks like it is about time for a new one.

[J41YD3D.]

I said to hell with the GL-10 so I robbed the rear suspension components all the way to the cross member because that was bent after my snow collision; reminder to self don’t shy away from things tackle ‘em head on. I managed to get it done in a night just in time for the snow. The GL-10 is running ever worst so I think the next project is maybe combining the engines to get the turbo as well. Cheers everyone! 

[ferp420]

the ea82 turbo has a tendency to crack the heads especially when you give it the beans and dont even try to add the turdbo to the na engine it will pop the first time you get in to the boost

[scoobydube]

The fine tip platinum plugs go bad real fast so you might want to check the plugs.  Inside of the distributor cap, the 4 pins that send the spark out to the plugs, get corroded every 5000 miles and need the corrosion cleaned off with sandpaper.  The plug wires get corroded inside of the connectors at each end.  The engine ground wire goes bad at the connector to the body at 200,000 to 250,000 miles.

Edited May 7, 2023 by scoobydube