How to replace EA82 head gaskets without taking the engine out.

[Bardi]

I did quite a bit of research and youtubing and it all looked very laborious, and everyone removed the engine from the vehicle or lifted it while attached to the gearbox. I found that I didn't have to but I rigged up a pulley just in case.

I recently bought a 1993 L Series Sportswagon and knew there was something wrong because the air filter was missing and the filter housing was oily and dripping somewhat from its drain hole at the front. The driver side PCV hose was breathing out oily air into the air filter housing. Later it developed an air and coolant problem back into the radiator overflow tank, and then milky oil in the PCV system. Head gasket. This was confirmed with a compression test of all cylinders - 1=135psi, 2=150psi, 3=75psi and 4=150psi. So I decided to replace the driver side head gasket.

First problem was tackling all the congestion of hoses and fittings relating to the air-conditioner which I was never going to use, so I removed them all. Of course you've got to take the radiator out, the front grill bar, the bonnet catch for better access and the alternator and its shared brackets. The car seems like it was built around the air-con system. That was the biggest part of the job.

Once the air-con stuff was out I removed the air-filter housing - that's another thing I want to make changes to, all those bloody hoses doing what? You have to have fingers like an octopus and eyes like a chameleon to see and get to them all. I labelled the less obvious ones for reconnection purposes later. After removing the housing I shoved some clean flanny shirt rag into the carby to keep stuff out. Then I freed the carby charcoal canister and power steering reservoir (drain it first) and put them out of the way. There are also brackets everywhere which need to be freed to move parts out of the way.

Next was the clutch fan and crank pulley. I started taking all the front timing covers off and lined up the timing marks as per the book. I noticed that the flywheel marks are out by about 1cm when the cams are in the correct position. Someone hadn't put the last set of belts on properly. Now I removed the timing belts because they hadn't been replaced for over 200,000kms in 2006 - it now has just shy of 350,000kms on the clock. Here's where I couldn't understand where people recommended jamming things into the flywheel or stuffing 10 metres of nylon rope into a cylinder throught the spark plug hole to stop the engine turning. Why not just put the bloody thing into 5th gear with the hand brake on for back-up, and leaving the spark plugs in for a bit of compression assisting as well so that you can undo the crackshaft pulley nut without the engine moving? Why do things the hard way?

I removed the 3 intake manifold bolts completely on the driver side and loosened the 3 passenger side ones a bit so that I could lift it a bit and shove a spacer under it to keep it up - driver side gasket would be cleaned and replaced. Next, undo the exhaust pipes where they bolt to the heads and jam a bit of wood in between the driver side pipe and the engine or whatever to keep it out of the way. So, with all the crud removed and other stuff out of the way I could remove the driver side camshaft cog, then remove the rocker cover, and then the camshaft housing. Be careful to watch, or have someone else watch, which rocker goes where if any of them fall out at this stage.

Well, what a surprise - not! The work of the previous 'repairer' never failed to surprise me throughout this job. There was one of the head bolts (number 5 if you look at the manual's recommended tightening sequence) fully wound out and sticking out like the proverbial right next to the number 3 cylinder where the compression was just 75psi. This moron must have either not torqued it up properly or not done it up at all, but surely he/she would have seen that? Anyway off came the head and, low and behold, the head gasket had a big piece missing from it right next to where that bolt was.

So, I did the usual clean up, replaced gaskets and o-rings while I could, reassembled (put some engine assembly grease on the rockers to keep them in place while re-fitting the camshaft housing, and also on the cam lobes for startup purposes) and torqued the parts in the opposite sequence and fit two new timing belts. Now I removed the spark plugs, took the car out of 5th gear and repositioned the flywheel to the correct timing. The belts were out by one tooth, so I removed them and re-aligned the cams to the correct setting and put the belts back on. This would no doubt mean re-timing the distributor later, which turned out to be more in advance by about 16 degrees than it should be. After putting everything back together without the air-con stuff and using the same bracket that was there for the alternator, but without the air-con compressor, I re-filled all the fluids and started her up and she ran like a beaut. I took her for a run, parked up over a large sheet of clean cardboard and no drips anywhere.

So, if anyone tells you you have to remove the engine or lift it to change head gaskets, don't believe them. I would do the same for the passenger side head if I needed to.

Anyone know which of the carby hoses and associated hardware I can get rid of?

Cheers.

[6 Star]

Welcome to the Forum

Although not impossible, it does make the job a lot harder to do in-car.

Lots of bending over the fenders, or reaching up from under the car.

Murphy's Law states that if one head gasket goes, the other side is not far behind... you may be doing the other side in the near future!

[azdave]

Welcome!  I had a similar thought of doing head work while in the car but choose to pull the engine and do a major clean-up and reseal as much as I reasonably could. I bought my 87 DL wagon SPFI 5-speed in running condition but with a bad head gasket on #3 at 250,000 miles. I didn't spilt the engine case because I had good oil pressure and no oil leaks that required going any deeper. In the end, I was glad I took the time to pull the engine and fix lot of other details. The previous owner was driving it with a bad head gasket and constantly refilling the radiator with plain water. he left it parked that way for weeks so it had some corrosion on the #3 cylinder wall of course but I wasn't interested in fixing that at the time. It's not perfect but only I would notice. In a leak-down test, I measured 3% leakdown on all the cylinder except #3 which reads 8%. I don't notice that performance-wise unless the idle is set a little low and then I feel a slight shake. At normal idle settings, it smooths out.

I still have to pass emissions tests where I live so all those hard baked vacuum hoses had to be replaced and remain functional. I'm at around 5000 miles and 1 year later since the engine work and so far, no issues. I'm really careful to not let it overheat, which I think is what happened with the previous owner. 

[Bardi]

6 Star - yes the constant bending over can be a bit tedious but I stretched it out over a few days. I'll take my chances with Murphy's Law because the compression tests on the other head were so good and even. The 3rd cylinder bolt not being tightened properly was the cause and problem.

azdave - thanks, I'll have to do some more research as to which of the tangle of hoses and fittings I can remove if anyone else knows. The manual I have doesn't really identify all these pieces (valves?) and what their function is.

Cheers.

[88SubGL]

That engine is so easy to pull, there’s no way I would do it in the car unless I had no other choice. Kudos for getting it done.

[el_freddo]

On 7/25/2023 at 6:27 PM, Bardi said:

So, if anyone tells you you have to remove the engine or lift it to change head gaskets, don't believe them. I would do the same for the passenger side head if I needed to.

To pull an EA81 or EA82 is about an hour. I’m with @88SubGL I’d pull the engine to save all the bending over the side of the vehicle, even if it meant working with the engine on the ground rather than on an engine stand. If you’re not touching the clutch it’s not hard to get back in, and even then if you are it’s still not that difficult either.

So much easier with the engine out. I’d also be concerned about the other intake manifold gasket leaking in the near future if you didn’t clean up he mating surfaces and replace the gasket. 

I’ll be interested to see how long the other side you didn’t touch lasts considering your concerns about the dodgy work of the last owner/mechanic this vehicle was subjected to. 

Give the EA82 a bit of time to sort its leaks out. Sadly you’re bound to find some before the year is out. 

I’ll admit, I don’t have a lot of love for the EA82, but I do love the L series wagons (and coupe if I could ever get one!). 

Cheers 

Bennie

[azdave]

I was encouraged to do a swap when I first got my 87 DL with a bad engine. I've had 6 engine swapped cars in my life and still working on the 7th. The fun of doing a swap dies a little each time so I'm happy to not take on a 8th as long as I can reasonably keep the EA82 running. After putting a 7.5L engine in the back seat of a 2200# car, swapping more power into my DL wagon would not be anything as exciting by comparison. I'm still working on swapping a WRX engine into a 58-year old classic that on its best day had 100 HP at the wheels. That might be the last engine swap I have in me. 

[idosubaru]

 

On 7/25/2023 at 4:27 AM, Bardi said:

So I decided to replace the driver side head gasket.

 

Nice hit just replacing one head!  I've done that before but always just pulled the entire intake manifold.  You weren't worried about debris from the intake dusting the head surface?

EA82 heads are incredibly easy to do in the vehicle. They're the one engine I'd never even bother considering pulling the engine unless it also needed a clutch or someone has a weak back.

The "I can pull a Subaru engine in..." comments are two sided - Anyone that can pull, and more particularly, install, an EA82 in an hour can be cleaning both heads in an hour getting ready for install.  There's no messing with seized dowels, walking the bellhousing off, propping up the transmission, aligning trans/engine.  If someone has the experience to make all of that easy - they have the experience to make an insitu head pull with fewer bolts and less work a walk in the park. 

[Bardi]

12 hours ago, el_freddo said:

To pull an EA81 or EA82 is about an hour. I’m with @88SubGL I’d pull the engine to save all the bending over the side of the vehicle, even if it meant working with the engine on the ground rather than on an engine stand. If you’re not touching the clutch it’s not hard to get back in, and even then if you are it’s still not that difficult either.

So much easier with the engine out. I’d also be concerned about the other intake manifold gasket leaking in the near future if you didn’t clean up he mating surfaces and replace the gasket. 

I’ll be interested to see how long the other side you didn’t touch lasts considering your concerns about the dodgy work of the last owner/mechanic this vehicle was subjected to. 

Give the EA82 a bit of time to sort its leaks out. Sadly you’re bound to find some before the year is out. 

I’ll admit, I don’t have a lot of love for the EA82, but I do love the L series wagons (and coupe if I could ever get one!). 

Cheers 

Bennie

Yes time will tell but I'm pretty confident the other head is good given the excellent compression readings, and if the other intake gasket was damaged it would have shown at startup - also it's an intake gasket, not compression, so it won't be blown out.

Maybe the previous owner/mechanic had the engine out of the car and still mega-stuffed up?

All the hassle of jamming things into parts of the motor when it's out of the car to stop the crank turning when undoing or re-torqueing the crank sounded ridiculous and potentially harmful to me. That's what most people were advising online which seemed unnecessary, and proved to be in my experience. Much easier and logical to put it into fifth gear, eh?

The only time consuming part of the job was getting rid of all the non-essential air-conditioning crud. Once that was done I had full access to all the timing belts area through the front, and to both heads from the side without having to even undo an engine mount. I'll be doing it the same way if I ever have to again, and probably in half the time you've mentioned it would take just to remove and refit the engine and line everything up again crawling right under the car to the engine and gearbox mounts. The heads are so light that you can hold them with one hand, unlike the heavier vertical engines, so I'll be leaving the engine in the car.

So, my experience this time was quite good and easy, leaving out messing with the air-con crud which I'll never have to do again.

Cheers.

[Bardi]

10 hours ago, azdave said:

I was encouraged to do a swap when I first got my 87 DL with a bad engine. I've had 6 engine swapped cars in my life and still working on the 7th. The fun of doing a swap dies a little each time so I'm happy to not take on a 8th as long as I can reasonably keep the EA82 running. After putting a 7.5L engine in the back seat of a 2200# car, swapping more power into my DL wagon would not be anything as exciting by comparison. I'm still working on swapping a WRX engine into a 58-year old classic that on its best day had 100 HP at the wheels. That might be the last engine swap I have in me. 

Yes I agree, the enthusiasm does dissipate from the job as you get older, but this recent experience has given me impetous to replace my old TD25 Navara's head gasket now.

Cheers.

[Bardi]

8 hours ago, idosubaru said:

 

 

Nice hit just replacing one head!  I've done that before but always just pulled the entire intake manifold.  You weren't worried about debris from the intake dusting the head surface?

EA82 heads are incredibly easy to do in the vehicle. They're the one engine I'd never even bother considering pulling the engine unless it also needed a clutch or someone has a weak back.

The "I can pull a Subaru engine in..." comments are two sided - Anyone that can pull, and more particularly, install, an EA82 in an hour can be cleaning both heads in an hour getting ready for install.  There's no messing with seized dowels, walking the bellhousing off, propping up the transmission, aligning trans/engine.  If someone has the experience to make all of that easy - they have the experience to make an insitu head pull with fewer bolts and less work a walk in the park. 

Cheers.

Anyone know which carby hoses and fittings I can get rid of?

Edited July 27, 2023 by Bardi

[el_freddo]

To crack the crank pulley bolt with the engine out of the car you use one of the clutch pressure plate bolts with a plate that holds this bolt and one of the lower gearbox mount studs. No need to remove spark plugs and shove stuff into the cylinder! 

Each to their own. I’d prefer to look after my back than give it a workout like that. And getting under the vehicle there’s only exhaust bolts and engine mount bolts to deal with from memory. 

Anyway, I don’t deal with the EA82 any more. Not even good for a boat anchor in my book. EA81 or EJ for me. 

If you find it works for you and you’re keen to do it again next time it must work for you and that’s all that matters. 

The next time you do pull the EA82, make sure you put something else back in it’s place  

Cheers 

Bennie

 

[el_freddo]

22 hours ago, Bardi said:

I'm pretty confident the other head is good given the excellent compression readings, and if the other intake gasket was damaged it would have shown at startup - also it's an intake gasket, not compression, so it won't be blown out

This didn’t sit right with me and I couldn’t pin why so I left it at the time. 

The EA82 intake manifold gasket is subjected to compression - from the coolant jacket that’s right beside the intake port that shares the same gasket. 

If your coolant mysteriously disappears I’d be looking at that gasket. It can leak a little bit and the engine runs fine. Keep an eye on it, last thing you want to do is cook the EA82… 

Cheers 

Bennie

[idosubaru]

15 hours ago, el_freddo said:

he next time you do pull the EA82, make sure you put something else back in it’s place  

 

hahahahhah. True true! That's Stout advice.  I haven't pulled one in over 15 years and can not imagine a reason I ever will again.

For the crank bolt - impact guns are money.  A 3 foot pipe extension and smash the end with a heavy metal mallet will suffice as a make shift impact to remove the crank pulley as well.  But having a bolt/anchor on the bellhousing for the flexplate or flywheel is much simpler and will be needed/useful when reinstalling too.

[Bardi]

10 minutes ago, el_freddo said:

This didn’t sit right with me and I couldn’t pin why so I left it at the time. 

The EA82 intake manifold gasket is subjected to compression - from the coolant jacket that’s right beside the intake port that shares the same gasket. 

If your coolant mysteriously disappears I’d be looking at that gasket. It can leak a little bit and the engine runs fine. Keep an eye on it, last thing you want to do is cook the EA82… 

Cheers 

Bennie

Thanks for the tip.

Cheers.

[Steptoe's photos]

the real need to pull an EA out is just to do Welch/freeze plugs. I need some limbering up exercises if anyone has good ones to share for all the other bending over and "going " in the backs of the knees (popliteal fossa region).

Another good reason to try in car for head jobs is lack of any other work space or job security if left outside in community spaces. If doing in-car one tip I have is to use a grease , general purpose, to glue the rockers in place to prevent falling out or partially out ( this gives zero comp  )

Edited August 9, 2023 by Steptoe's photos

[scoobydube]

Leaving the engine in the car is the best way to get the highly torqued cylinder head bolts loose and retorqued.  The secret trick for first timers is that there are 2 lengths of cylinder head bolts because there are two shoulder heights on the cylinder heads.  If you put the short bolts in the tall shoulder holes, then you are going to strip out a bit of thread in the block.  You can correct it though by going back to the long bolts in the tall shoulder holes and still get enough torque on the bolts.  Felpro is the only way to go for head gaskets.