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GL/Loyale Windshield Moulding


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As a follow up to the above T-moulding suggestion, the deeper the embedded portion of the T is into the caulking, the more likely that not only is a leaky window going to happen, but the bottom metal shelf that the exterior plastic panels sit on, is going to rust to the point of having many small holes. If it hasn't already rusted.  Cars that sit outside in the rain year round, are guaranteed to have rusted bottom shelves.  Certified window replacement shops will not replace windshield with any of those small holes.  So once they discover them, they stop work and you get to pay to have your car towed home.  The solution at the bottom shelf, is to cut out all the trim and old caulking and then form round bottom formwork out of duct tape beneath the shelf, and then trowel bondo with fiberglass onto the bottom shelf so that it flows through those holes and forms a level top surface outside of the glass edge.  Now you could go to a certified window replacement shop at this point, but they are just going to screw it up again unless you give them specific instructions.  Those  instructions are do not use any  T-type moulding for either the top or bottom edges of the windshield.  Use RTR or the black caulking that you buy in the auto  shop.  Form both edges of your caulk line in advance with electrical tape so you get perfectly straight lines and it looks like real moulding.  For the side, you can get away with the T-type moulding embedded in the RTR caulking since leaks there just run downhill.

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