Subarutex Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 The other thread started to get cluttered... Ok, the problem: Simply, the car won't idle. Starts almost everytime, will run if you hold the gas. Anything below 1500 it starts to fight, and wants to die. Sometimes, after it dies, it won't start right away. 5 minutes later it will though... If you give it enough gas to hold at 2000rpm, it seems to jump around. Creeps up to 2200, drops down to 1900, recovers back to 2100, etc. It does the same thing in 2 different configurations... the "stock way" with the turbo and IC plumbed. Also does it with the MAF/filter stuck right on the end of the throttle body. Retimed it (with the green plugs together) to 20deg. While running (with the plugs apart) I can't see any timing marks. I've set fuel pressures below stock, at stock, and above stock. All with the same results as above. New cap, new rotor. Searched for vac. leaks... haven't found any yet. Not getting any codes on the ECU. No check engine light. What do I do next!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. RX Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Get the vacuum checked!!!!!! It sound similar to what was going on with the wagon and that was cause by valve timing, but the other thing that could have caused it was a vacuum leak, and a vacuum test should point that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 I'm with Corky, get a good vacuum gauge on it, make sure you connect it at the manifold with a relatively short large line. You don’t want the signal to be buffered or smoothed, you need to see the variations. I’d also do a compression check, bad valve timing can show there as well. Keep us posted. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Simply, the car won't idle. Starts almost everytime, will run if you hold the gas. Anything below 1500 it starts to fight, and wants to die. Sometimes, after it dies, it won't start right away. 5 minutes later it will though... If you give it enough gas to hold at 2000rpm, it seems to jump around. Creeps up to 2200, drops down to 1900, recovers back to 2100, etc. That sounds very reminiscient of my ignition module problems. Do you have a spare distributor to slap in there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 throttle position sensor (again)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Retimed it (with the green plugs together) to 20deg. While running (with the plugs apart) I can't see any timing marks. You mean the diagnostic plugs? under the dash? Is that part of the timing process??. My FSM tells me to disconect the knock advance harness connector (8 pin black round) as well as the vacuum advance hose (plug the hose so no vac leak), set timing (to 25) and reconnect..... Anyone else?? I do wonder is the problem is in the disty. How bad was the cap and rotor after you found the cap really loose? Is there any way the cap being loose could have harmed the disty. For example, if the cap and rotor were not close enough together, could you get arcing to the body of the disty or something? just a thought. If you could borrow a known good disty to swap in there, it would be worth the time. garner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted July 26, 2004 Author Share Posted July 26, 2004 There are a lot of differences between the flapper door style cars, and the hotwire cars. The timing process being one of them. I followed per my '87 FSM. I know i have 2 extra dizzy's for the flapper, but none for hotwire cars. I'll see if I can scare one up from somebody. How do I vac. test it? I've watched my vac/boost gauge for hours looking for something. Even if I do find its low vac. what can I do about it? The damn cams already give me about 10 less at idle! Ignition Module? tell on caleb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddcomp Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 jus a wild half snookered idea here.... but check your water temp sensor i its not working right the ecu will think that the engien is cold all the time and cause running and idle problems especially after it warms up as it cannot usethe amount of extra fuel its being given... just a thot also a bad or messed up ma will tell the ecu to dump more fuel than it needs check the o2 sensor output voltage ince thats what the ecu uses to make a fuel mapto run the engine not always but alot of the time andeven idle can be afected by what the ecu thinks it see's off the o2 sensor same with the tps if it hs been moved accidenty or even partially bad you may be at idle but the tps tells the ecu its at half throttle and... well it onna run like... $h1t but that is all just my own inebriated first responses to your problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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