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A tornado visited my car one day and left a gift. It was a a small branch from a willow that took out a quarter window on the way to caving in a door of my OB. Before having the rest of the body work done, (ie. dents in fenders, roof, bumpers), I decided to replace the window. Right after the break, I decided to tape some plastic onto the window. I ruled out duct tape because it leaves a heavy adhesive behind. I used a thin clear packing tape. The window is now replaced and the guy who did it says he tried everything to get the rest of the tape off, but nothing would penetrate the plastic to disolve the glue. He said I should have used duct tape instead. Why? Because you can tear it all off to get to the glue backing.:banghead:

 

He said that I should let it weather until it gets brittle, then get something under it.

 

Anyhow, I'm looking for a solution. Does anyone know how to get this off my paint and window trim (plastic) without scratching, or removing the paint and discoloring the plastic?

 

Thanks,

 

Eq

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I've been in the vinyl sign and graphics business for quite a few years and have run across all types of labels, stickers, tapes and pressure-sensitive adhesives. If only the adhesive remains on the surface, usually applying a light mineral oil or baby oil will dissolve it without affecting the painted surface below, but you can also try a household citrus-based cleaner/degreaser, rubbing alcohol, methanol, unleaded white gasoline, or automotive bug & tar remover. Be sure to test any chemical on an unexposed section of the painted, plastic or rubber surface just to be safe. You can often saturate a paper label so that it soaks through to the adhesive. Do NOT use high-volatility solvents, especially paint thinners or reducers.

 

If the tape, film or non-porous label is still intact usually the best approach is to warm up the adhesive and very gently peel the entire label off. Letting the car sit in the hot sun to warm the body panel will work fine, as will a hair dryer/blower or a heat gun, but be very careful not to overheat the paint with it! If you can feel the body panel getting too hot to touch you're applying too much heat. Apply just enough heat to soften the adhesive. This method rarely fails to work for me and I've never had any paint damage.

 

Cheers ...

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I deal with exactly your problem almost daily. We will normally remove the tape for you once we have the glass installed. (really sucks, but that is customer service!)

Duct tape is OK, as long as it isn't on more than a day or 2. Best tape to use is actually a high quality painters tape!!! We use a tape that is similar, but more of an auto body tape that is made by Intertape. Cost per roll is about $15.00 (wholesale!!!), but it is awesome!!

Anyway, back to your tape. Before you use any solvents, the trick is to get the plastic off which will then allow you to remove the actual adhesive. We use PLASTIC razor blades! Really does the trick. It is not easy, but if you get lucky and are careful, you can pull it off in the largest pieces possible.

Don't even bother with the solvents until you get the surface off.

Just keep picking at it as it WILL take time!

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Thanks guys!

 

You are great! I'll check the auto-body stores for one of those plastic razors, (I sure hope the Homeland thugs didn't outlaw those through the Unpatriotic Act). Then I'll try the heat and the mild solvents. Sydfloyd 44, That's some good service. If you were w/in driving distance and knew you had a shop, I'd have given you the job. Next time I have a broken window, I'll get some of that tape. I know what you mean about the difference in quality painter's tape. Even normal masking tape is bad stuff to leave on more than a day. I learned that through experience. Taped off my trim in the house and didn't peel it off for a couple of days. It left the beige glue behind. I'll try to find a roll of the good stuff.

 

That'll be my first job tomorrow after presure washing the house.

 

I appreciate the help, my friends,

 

eq

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