2013 EZ36 with Haltech into 1998 GF Impreza Outback sport wiring plumbing etc

[pontoontodd]

I'm going to try to make this guide as comprehensive as I can for setting up an EZ36 with a Haltech Elite 2500.  Haltech does have some good wiring instructions on their website for the EZ30 but the EZ36 is significantly different.  I also had someone share with me a base map for EZ36 but it's for the older (ESP) version of the Haltech software, so I will try to post that once I get it working well, probably after some dyno tuning too.  Will also include specific wiring for putting this in a first gen Impreza (specifically 98 GF in my case, the older first gens definitely have different wiring in the instrument cluster if nothing else).

Edited May 12 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

I used the Haltech fusebox kit which has four fuses and relays for ECU, injectors, ignition, and fuel pump.

Chart of wires from the Haltech and which pins on the engine connector and throttle pedal I ran them to.

	Main connector 34 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-9 left to right top row
	EZ36 ECU	Haltech	Wire Colour	Connection
EVAP		1	V/BR	DPO 2
	Pedal 5	2	O/Y	AVI 4
	9	3	Y/B	IGN 1
	20	4	Y/R	IGN 2
	31	5	Y/O	IGN 3
	10	6	Y/G	IGN 4
	50	7	Y/BR	IGN 5
	44	8	Y/L	IGN 6
	28, pedal 1&3	9	O	+5V DC
	GND	10	B	BATTERY GROUND
	GND	11	B	BATTERY GROUND
	-	12	O/W	+8V DC
	IGN	13	P	12V IGNITION INPUT
AC request		14	W	AVI 10 ( TPS )
	23	15	Y	AVI 9 ( MAP )
	25	16	O/B	AVI 2
	24	17	O/R	AVI 3
tach		18	V/B	DPO 1
	54	19	L	INJ 1
	53	20	L/B	INJ 2
	52	21	L/BR	INJ 3
	51	22	L/R	INJ 4
AC clutch relay		23	V/R	DPO 3
Haltech relays		24	B/Y	DPO 5 ( FUEL PUMP TRIGGER)
Haltech relays		25	B/R	DPO 6 ( ECR OUT)
Haltech relays		26	R/L	ECU INJECTOR POWER INPUT (REQUIRED CONNECTION FOR ECU TO OPERATE)
	47	27	L/O	INJ 5
	46	28	L/Y	INJ 6
		29	L/G	INJ 7
		30	L/V	INJ 8
IN2	22	31	G	STEPPER 1 P1 / DPO
IN1 (LH)	33	32	G/B	STEPPER 1 P2 / DPO
EX1	43	33	G/BR	STEPPER 1 P3 / DPO
EX2	17	34	G/R	STEPPER 1 P4 / DPO
	Main connector 26 pin (Elite 2500) looking into connector on ECU 1-7 left to right top row
	EZ36 ECU	Haltech	Wire Colour	Connection
	3	1	Y (SHD)	CRANK (TRIGGER) ( + )
Inangle1 (LH)	13	2	Y (SHD)	CAM (HOME) ( + )
		3	GY	AVI 7 (AIR TEMP)
	12	4	V	AVI 8 (COOLANT TEMP)
	14	5	G (SHD)	CRANK (TRIGGER) ( - )
	5	6	G (SHD)	CAM (HOME) ( - )
		7	GY/R (SHD)	SPI 4
Inangle2	2	8	GY (SHD)	SPI 1
Exangle1	26	9	GY/B (SHD)	SPI 2
Exangle2	15	10	GY/BR (SHD)	SPI 3
	IGN	11	R/W	+13.8V ECU SUPPLY (ECU POWER)
		12	GY/O (SHD)	AVI 6 (O2 INPUT 1)
		13	GY/Y (SHD)	AVI 1 (O2 INPUT 2 )
	6,34,35,36,37,40	14	B/W	SIGNAL GROUND
	Pedal 4	15	B/W	SIGNAL GROUND
	Pedal 6	16	B/W	SIGNAL GROUND
CEL		17	Y/V	IGN 7
		18	Y/GY	IGN 8
FAN relay		19	V/O	DPO 4
	Pedal 2	20	O/G	AVI 5
	4	21	GY/G	KNOCK 1
	1	22	GY/L	KNOCK 2
CAN O2		23	W	CAN H
CAN O2		24	L	CAN L
	39	25	BR/B	DBW 1 / DPO
	38	26	BR/R	DBW 2 / DPO

Edited January 30 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Going the other way, wire colors to the ECU connector for reference.

		2013 EZ36 pinout
color (car)		B21 54 pin	color (engine side)
	GY/L	1	Lg	knock sensor 2 (signal)
	GY	2	GR	intake cam pos sensor RH (signal?)
	Y	3	W	crank position sensor	Also 14
	GY/G	4	LR	knock sensor 1 (signal)
	G	5	Lg	intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH (ground?)
	B/W	6	YG	throttle control, MAP, coolant & oil temp sensor, knock sensor 1&2 (ground)
IGN	GY/R	7	L	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH
		8	B Or	EGR control solenoid valve
	Y/B	9	RY	ignition coil 1
	Y/G	10	WL	ignition coil 4
		11	RG	purge control solenoid valve (signal?)
gauge	V	12	BrW	coolant temp sensor (signal)
	Y	13	G	intake cam pos sensor LH (signal?)
	G	14	B	crank position sensor	Also 3
	GY/BR	15	BY	exhaust cam pos sensor RH (signal?)
		16	W	oil level switch	switched to ground
	G/R	17	L Or	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve RH
		18	PB	power steering oil pressure switch	switched to ground
		19	BL	EGR control solenoid valve
	Y/R	20	YG	ignition coil 2
IGN	GY/R	21	L	intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH
	G	22	R	intake oil flow control solenoid valve RH
	Y	23	YB	MAP (signal?)
	O/R	24	Or	throttle control	signal?
	O/B	25	W	throttle control	signal?
	GY/B	26	G	exhaust cam pos sensor LH (signal?)
gauge		27	L	engine oil temp sensor (signal)
	O	28	LY	throttle control, MAP (power?)
		29	YR	EGR control solenoid valve
		30	Y	EGR control solenoid valve
	Y/O	31	GW	ignition coil 3
IGN	GY/R	32	GY	intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	G/B	33	RY	intake oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	B/W	34	BP	ground for ECU?
	B/W	35	LR	ground for ECU?
	B/W	36	WR	ground for ECU?	(coil ground?)
	B/W	37	LR	ground for ECU?
	BR/R	38	BW	throttle control
	BR/B	39	BL	throttle control
	B/W	40	BP	ground for ECU?
		41
IGN	GY/R	42	R	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	G/BR	43	RW	exhaust oil flow control solenoid valve LH
	Y/L	44	BY	ignition coil 6
gauge cluster		45	G Or	oil pressure switch	switched to ground
	L/Y	46	GW	fuel injector 6
	L/O	47	Br	fuel injector 5
	R/L HTFB	48	YL	intake&exhaust cam pos sensor LH&RH, fuel injectors 1-6, purge control solenoid valve (power?)
	R/Y HTFB	49	LB	ignition coil 1-6 (power – ignition relay?)
	Y/BR	50	BL	ignition coil 5
	L/R	51	RG	fuel injector 4
	L/BR	52	G Or	fuel injector 3
	L/B	53	LR	fuel injector 2
	L	54	Lg	fuel injector 1
	HTFB = Haltech fusebox
		STI accelerator pedal pinout (left to right looking at harness connector)
	O	1	sub	5V+
	O/G	2	sub	signal (analog)
	O	3	main	5V+
	B/W	4	main	ground
	O/Y	5	main	signal (analog)
	B/W	6	sub	ground

[pontoontodd]

As noted above this is for an STI accelerator pedal, I think the pinouts on the Legacy/Outback and possibly the one shown on the Haltech site are different so definitely verify that.

Most of that was figured out from the basemap I got, Haltech's site and instructions (their color coded wiring diagrams are great) and the FSMs.

One minor hurdle we had was the Haltech EZ30 basemap being set up for a PWM pump (I think), had to switch that to the B/Y wire so it would actually turn on the fuel pump.  Fuel pump seems to run continuously with ignition on even if the engine isn't running, haven't looked to see if or how that can be changed yet.

Also had to adjust the pot position on the accelerator pedal to keep from getting an error at full throttle.  Simple, just two phillips screws. 

Also have to calibrate the accelerator pedal and DBW throttle, also simple, just follow prompts on the screen.

Edited May 12 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Download the FSM from jdmfsm.info, most of the following is from that.

Pinned out connector to EZ36

Some Impreza specific wiring:

Was looking for a good source of 12VDC with the ignition on that's not shared by any other fuses.  Since we removed the airbags, computer, and wiring, it was convenient to tap into the airbag harness connector near the dead pedal.  Ran the pink wire from pin 13 of the Haltech to that.

Pin 6 connector B31 red wire as seen below:

Almost spliced into the B/R wire running to the fuel pump by the passenger footwell but decided to tap into the connector that normally goes to the fuel pump relay (white thing on the left side of the picture).  Ran the orange/blue wire from the Haltech fuse box there.

Pin 4 of B46 black/red wire as shown below:

Also wanted a dedicated but fused battery voltage source so tapped into the ABS connector since that will no longer be functional.  Goes through the main 80A fuse and a 50A fuse in the main fuse box and then over to the ABS module (W/R wire marked B).  Plugged the red, red/white, and red/green wires for the Haltech fuse box in to that.

Used a large ground wire there too (black wire marked G), ran the black ground wire from pins 10 and 11 of the Haltech to that.

Pins 23 (black) and 25 (white/red) of F49 as seen below:

Simplest way I could figure to do the starter circuit was to splice these two wires (large W/R and W/B) that originally went to the shifter on the auto trans.  Cut them on the large side of the factory splices and spliced them together.

Large white/red and white/black wires of B12 as shown below:

For some reason we had to unplug the stock ECU for this all to work properly but we were obviously going to do that regardless.

I plan on adding more detail to the above and other wiring as I have time.

Edited January 31 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Most of the wiring and modules we removed.  Keyless entry, airbags, TCU, ECU, aftermarket cruise wiring.

At first we couldn't remove the ignition key from the lock cylinder even in the off position.  If you plug the shifter (big white thing) in to that white wire plug and have it in park, then you can remove the key.

Those blue and red wires go the park position sensor.

The two black wires below that go to the lock cylinder seem to be the culprit.

If you unplug them at this connector under the steering column you can take the key out normally.  Then you don't have to deal with the park position sensor.  The black connector with two white wires is the other side of the connector.

Alternator wiring.  The two big white wires go to the large post.  Then the black/white wire is the same on both cars so I spliced those.  Spliced the other one.  I did order a wire plug for this so I can get rid of the splices.

Spliced a wire off the EZ36 coolant temp sensor to the dash but that caused the Haltech and dash to read low.  Thought about running an output from the Haltech to the temp gauge, maybe I will eventually but I installed an EZ30 coolant temp sensor.  Same threads, has three pins instead of two.  In the EZ30(D) cars, one pin (2) goes to the ECU, the other one goes to the gauge.  I was hoping this would make the sensor read more accurately on the Haltech (I think it reads about 20F higher than actual) since that's what the base map was set up for but it seems to read the same as the 2 pin sensor.  I ran this purple wire from pin 3 under the intake in some small loom.

Put a spade connection near the engine harness plug.

Unfortunately this didn't accomplish much.  Seems to read the same as the EZ36 sensor on the Haltech.  Gauge fairly quickly goes beyond H as soon as the engine starts warming up.  For reference, the 2001 EZ30(D) sensor reads:

4.6kohms 30F

2.7kohms 60F

190 ohms 212F (not sure how accurate this is)

The 98 Impreza gauge reads:

100 ohms (to ground) H

120 ohms 2/3

150 ohms top of C

180 ohms bottom of C

After some trial and error I spliced a 100 ohm resistor between the gauge and sensor and now the gauge and needle is in the middle at operating temp (200-210F on the Haltech).  This was without the ground for the temp and fuel gauges grounded (see below, pin 16 of the 16 pin EJ connector).  After we grounded that, I removed the 100 ohm resistor and the temp gauge is functional.  Seems to read low though, at normal operating temp (200-210F according to the Haltech but probably a little lower than that) the temp gauge only reads about 1/3.  As long as it's consistent it should be good.

 

Here we have the wires for the instrument cluster.

connector a/i10

pin 1&3 speedometer (not working yet, see below)

pin 8  R/W  check engine light (from Haltech)

pin 9  G/W  oil pressure switch (from engine)

pin 10  G  tachometer (from Haltech)

connector c/i11

pin 3 Y/G auto trans oil temp (spliced to EZ36 oil level switch, see below)

pin 11  W/G  coolant temperature (see above)

Edited April 28 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Leaving this post mostly empty for future gauge cluster updates.

EZ36 has an oil level sensor so I figured, why not run that to one of the unused idiot lights?  It's pin 16 of the EZ36 engine connector (white wire).  Spliced it to the AT temp light since that's no longer a concern.  Unfortunately the oil level switch is apparently closed when the oil level is normal.  So the light is basically always on.  It does turn off while turning left or braking hard.  If anyone knows of a simple way to switch this to be normally open (without a relay or something) I'm all ears.

 

Z and I did a lot of probing and testing of the fuel gauge circuit and long story short he eventually noticed that the ground for the sender goes to the engine.  We grounded that pin of the original engine harness (black red, pin 16 of the 16 pin EJ connector shown below) and the fuel gauge seems to work well now.  I think it's also a ground for the temp gauge.  Certainly makes the temp gauge read higher when grounded (see above).

Cleaner wiring below

Edited April 30 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

My first thought on the speedo was that Subarus are Legos so that should be simple.  Unfortunately not.  The automatic appears to use a 2 pin reluctor (VSS2) for the speedometer.  The 6MT has a 3 pin Hall effect sensor VSS.  First step was to wire the 6MT VSS to the Haltech (SPI4 in my case).  From left to right looking at the wiring harness plug with the latch on top, colors are Haltech:

pin 1 GyR (large/shielded, inner wire is orange) signal SPI4

pin 2 BW ground

pin 3 GyR (small) +12VDC

Have to calibrate it but that seemed to give us a vehicle speed on the Haltech.  Need to take a picture.

Next step is to set up one of the outputs of the Haltech to get the speedometer working.  I think I know how just haven't done it yet.

 

A few weeks ago we got the reverse lights working.  Spliced a connector on the wires (GB pin 9, BrY pin 10) that normally go to the 12 pin gray auto trans connector to pins 3 and 6 of a connector that plugs into the STI 6MT harness.  Both reverse light bulbs were a little corroded so we cleaned those up.  Then it seemed like we had to shift it in and out of reverse a few times before they'd consistently light up, maybe the switch on the trans was a little sticky or dirty.

Edited April 23 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Leaving this open for AC wiring/control.  It's been working but I need to post some pictures and wiring details although it was fairly simple.  I made a little jumper harness to plug in line with the solenoid on the AC compressor with some long wires going in the car and drove around a completely stock EZ36 Outback and see what kind of voltage it's giving that solenoid.  Seemed to be mostly HVAC fan speed dependent.  On lower fan speeds or when accelerating it was 6-8VDC.  At max fan speed it was 12VDC up to about 3500RPM then it rapidly dropped back to about 6VDC.  So I set up the Haltech to turn it off over 3500RPM, already set to turn off AC over 70% throttle.  Main problem I had is the engine started stalling with the AC on quite often when disengaging the clutch.  I tried a bunch of things and browsed a Haltech group and eventually increased the air con base idle offset to 30% and the RPMs come down much more gently with the AC on.  Power to AC compressor solenoid shown below.  Thermal overload switch bypassed, I don't think there is one on this compressor.

I think the next two pictures are the AC request and AC relay wires to/from the stock ECU I spliced into but need to check my notes and document that.

Edited September 22 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Leaving this open for cruise control/wiring.  On the Haltech you need three safety inputs - brake switch, clutch pedal switch, and neutral switch.  All on separate inputs.  So I wound up getting an IO expander box.  Something I didn't fully consider when picking an ECU, I haven't looked closely but some have suggested that a Nexus is similar total cost but more functionality.  Expander box needs a CAN connection (piggybacked off wideband), signal ground, 12VDC from the battery, and 12VDC switched with the ignition.

On a stock Subaru I think the pedal switches are just wired in series so if one of them goes open it shuts off cruise control.  Clutch switch was fairly straightforward, wired one side of that to DPI2 on the expander box and the other side to the 12VDC output for DPI2. 

This worked fine until I had to replace the expander box and now no longer works.  Thought brake switch would be straightforward but wound up damaging the expander box.  Turns out the brake switch for cruise is already getting 12VDC from fuse #16 LY wire.  At one point I had one of the wires from that switch going into AVI3 which was apparently bad.  Once I figured that out and that the WB wire has 12VDC when the brake pedal is pressed I wired that to DPI1 on the replacement expander box and that seems to work.  

Neutral is the BR and GB wires on the six pin connector to the 6MT.  So I didn't have to run more wires to the trans I just used these two RW wires that go from one of the auto trans connectors to the former location of the TCM under the dash.  This also worked on the initial expander box but doesn't with the replacement.

With a little trial and error and math we have the vehicle speed on the Haltech agreeing with GPS now.

The Haltech uses one input wire for the various cruise functions, then you wire in resistors so each button sends a different voltage.  For some reason I can't find the wiring for it in the Impreza FSM but the 2001 Forester FSM shows the cruise function wiring.  The set and resume buttons each close one circuit.  It uses a couple of diodes to close both circuits for the cancel button.  Normally there's 12VDC coming in on the RG/GR/GB wire (the cruise wiring changes colors at each connector) and when you ground that it activates the horn relay.  So for now my horn doesn't work, I just ran the orange 5VDC output from the expander box in. 

First I tried to wire these switches to progressively go through resistors as many people online suggest, see example below. 

The problem with that is that since the cancel button closes both circuits, the voltage for cancel tends to be very close to one of the other circuits.  So off the BW wire (set) I wired a 1Mohm resistor to AVI1 OG wire.  From the W wire (resume) I wired a 1.5Mohm resistor to AVI1 OG wire.  That took a fair amount of trial and error to figure out the largest voltage spread, it's definitely not a linear system.  With those resistors I had:

rest 1V (more on this below)

resume 2.17V

set 2.59V

cancel 2.97V

The Haltech seemed happy with this but the cruise still didn't work.  Apparently they're working on a firmware update.  In the meantime, I went back to an earlier firmware version.  That version wasn't happy with just having cruise enabled all the time and required enable and disable buttons.  The only way I could seem to get it to work was off AVI1.  I set it up so the resume function on the stalk enables cruise, cancel and set are as normal.  I set disable to 4.7VDC which will probably never happen but that's fine.  That worked but after I'd drive for a while cruise would stop working.  Seemed like it was because the rest voltage would be different than when I started.  I saw it anywhere from 0.5VDC to 1.7VDC.  Doesn't seem to be based on battery voltage, runtime, RPM, or anything else I can tell.  Seems steady any time I look at it but then a half hour later it'll be significantly different.  I would think it should be 0VDC but that's definitely not the case.  The Haltech will only allow you to increase the voltage tolerance to 0.2VDC which helps but certainly doesn't solve the problem.  On the plus side I experimented with the PID tables a bit and when the cruise does work it seems reasonably smooth and steady.

Hopefully the final step was to wire a 100kohm resistor from AVI1 to ground.  This seems to keep the rest voltage down under 0.1VDC.  To get the other voltages back up, I used a 120kohm resistor for the BW wire (set) and 180kohm for the W wire (res) and came up with the following voltages:

rest 0.18V

resume 1.56V (using this for enable)

set 2.1V

cancel 2.52V

Before heat shrinking and taping.

Seems to work consistently now.  We tuned the PID values a bit (increased proportional and derivative gains mostly) and it holds the speed to a fairly tight window.  Seems smooth at high speeds, some hunting at lower speeds especially when going downhill/minimal load.

Edited September 22 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

I thought the best place to put the ECU would be behind the passenger side airbag panel so B made up this mounting plate for the ECU, fusebox, and dual wideband.

 

DBW pedal wasn't a direct bolt in so we had to make an adaptor plate.

Edited May 12 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Used the Impreza lines from the rack and bent them around and used 2013 Outback pump and hoses and reservoir for the power steering.

 

To be safe I used this drop in DeatschWerks fuel pump.  I've read the turbo Subaru fuel pump is also adequate.

I used an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set that so we're at about 70% duty cycle on the injectors at WOT and high RPM (about 35psi with the engine running). 

Drilled and tapped the fuel rails for return lines as the EZ36 is returnless.

Routed AN lines to fit under the injector covers but this does make the injectors difficult to unplug.

Edited May 12 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

I used Raptor headers that we shortened about 1" for more ground clearance.  Extended one side with stainless for better clearance between axle and O2 sensor and flange.  Not hard to believe these headers add about 10% more power over stock.  A better solution might be to build a set with primaries that are all next to and level with each other for more ground clearance.

The Y is constructed out of 2.25" 4130.

The middle portion is 2.5" 4130 with a V band to a resonator.  Should have used V bands for the ends of the headers.

At light loads the exhaust is pretty quiet but at anything about 1/4 or 1/2 throttle it gets raspy.  A lot of that was coming from the header flange gaskets.  I replaced those with V bands, thought about doing that from the beginning but they already had the flanges welded on them.  Much less raspy now but still kinda noisy over half throttle.

Edited September 22 by pontoontodd

[pontoontodd]

Will try to find/post better pictures eventually but for the cooling system we settled on a modified Miata radiator. 

Pushed the condenser as far forward as we could with minimal cutting/bending/hammering.  Flipped the condenser brackets IIRC, put some rubber in between it and the body.  Seemed like a stock H6 radiator would have fit but it would have been rubbing on the timing cover.  Cut and welded some water necks on the Miata radiator to fit the H6.  This is one of my biggest disappointments of the swap, it might be worth using a second gen Impreza just so you could run a stock H6 radiator.  While we had the water necks cut off it seemed that part of the tube they welded in might be blocking flow.

So we ground that out.

Probably won't matter but I want as much cooling capacity as I can get.

Used a cheap universal fit coolant overflow tank, I've used these on a couple cars/trucks and they seem to hold up.  Swapped to a 13psi cap from the 20psi cap the radiator came with and the level in the overflow seems to go up and down with coolant temp as you'd expect.  Using two pusher fans.

For the intake we just modified a Can Am airbox to pull air in from the scoop.  One downside is that filters are fairly expensive and not really available retail.  Put a water repellent filter sock on it too.  Installed the grommet and air intake temp sensor for EZ30 in it.  Also have a couple cone air filters.  Plan to eventually test them on the dyno and then cut the baffle under the hood scoop appropriately.

Edited May 12 by pontoontodd

[Grennick]

Way to go, Todd! We're looking at this Subaru Legacy with EZ36 as next project. We could use some of your info here. The brake pads and tires from 4Wheelonline for the truck arrived so we can take a look at the Legacy tomorrow.