lmdew Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 I picked up an 05 Impreza, low mileage 60K. The Speedo does not work and it looks like the milage readout may have burnt out. I'm thinking a new gauge cluster. - The Timing belt has not been replaced, it's low mileage but old. I think it the idler bearings and seals should be changed. I'm also a fan if it's not broken don't fix it! Your thoughts? - Auto trans had a bit of torque bind, by feel. Not flashing trans temp light on start. The car did sit for years, so I hope the clutches were just drided out and it will free up with some mileage and a flush/TransX treatment. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 (edited) Mizumo sells Mitsuboshi timing belt kits on fleabay that include Aisin tensioners. Check the tensioner for hydraulic fluid loss around the lip seal on top of tensioner. Always a good idea to change belt, idlers & tensioner while there. Cheap insurance against bent valves! Save your money and just buy ATF Dexron/Mercon cheap at a local store like North 40 in 2 gal jugs. Do a flush by draining the fluid then refilling, drive for 100 miles then drain & refill again. Do this 3 times. Don't take it out of Park until you're sure it's refilled to cold low mark while idling. Get yourself 3 one gallon milk or juice jugs, cleaned and dried out. Pour the first draining into one jug to gauge how much to put into the second jug for refilling the trans before starting the engine to check oil level cold. Saves a lot of time filling, checking level, etc when flushing the trans. Any additive that causes seals to swell is a bad idea. Edited May 18 by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 I put the FWD fuse in today, no FWD light, but the speedometer of the cluster is out as well. The AT Temp light is not flashing after starting the car. More digging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Definitely change the timing belt kit! Check the main fuses under the bonnet to ensure that’s not a possible reason as to why your cluster isn’t working. Also check all the connectors are properly plugged in behind the cluster. Hopefully not rodent damaged! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I wouldn’t leave a 20 year old belt on an interference engine. If you’re positive it’s Subaru it’s got a lot better chance than aftermarket I’ve seen clutches free up on older ones that sat, just by driving. I’d drive it and periodically remove the FWD fuse to see if they’re any better. Initial torque bind almost always responds well to fluid changes so that’s worth a try IMO. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 I pulled the dash gauge cluster apart and found the FWD, ABS, LO and Hold bulbs missing from the circuit board. Why do people do it. Fix it Right or let people know there is a fault! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azdave Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 7 hours ago, lmdew said: Why do people do it. Fix it Right or let people know there is a fault! A rhetorical question, right? Our world is full of immoral mechanics and car salesmen who know it is far cheaper to hide faults than to fix them. My 87 DL came to me with the CEL bulb not doing a proper self-check at start-up. The bulb had been removed of course. I installed a new bulb and was able to fix the faults. I later found the old bulb under the passenger seat when cleaning up the interior. I bought the car from the original owner but of course he claimed to know nothing about it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 Transmission Drain and Flush today made significant improvements on the transmission torque bind. I always pull the radiator trans coolant hose and let the trans pump out a gallon at a time after I drain and fill the transmission. After 3 gallons the flush is complete and trans serviced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 Power steering belt rubbed a hole in the upper radiator hose a couple of weeks ago. A quick fix. This thing was hit in the front as some point. I pulled the radiator support out a bit and it's been fine. Today going down the freeway, it seemed as if the engine cutout completely a few times. It always came back to life in a second. No codes logged. The temp went up a little but other than that nothing. I checked under the hood when I got home and everything seemed OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 No issues the last 3 days. 30 mile round trip daily. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 I changed out the gauge cluster, it's nice to have speed back. The ABS light is on. I looked for the 6 pin black connector and jumper pins, but did not see them. Anyone know how to pull the ABS codes on an 05 Impreza RS wagon? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvu Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 (edited) It's been so long ago, I forgot if it's taped up to the harness or was one of the connectors behind the inner fuse block. It was definitely hidden when I needed it. Remove the lower plastic panel and 2 x 10mm bolts on the metal protector bracket. Edited July 17 by nvu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 Thanks, I'll take another look. Interesting that the text says side of the driver's seat, but the picture shows the kick panel area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 No luck, still looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 Engine issue, no power came back twice today. 1st time I dropped it into 3rd. Power came right back. 2nd time it had no impact but power came back in 10 sec. or so. p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 When you say the power came back on are you saying the engine lost power/not all horses were working OR engine fired up again after stalling out OR that all electricals died for the moment of time as stated? Three very different situations for the one statement of “no power came back twice today” and “power came right back” etc. Sorry if you think I’m splitting hairs/being too critical - the more precise information shared about this the better chance of pin pointing the issue. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 Agreed. While driving and keeping the eyes on the road it hard to pick everything up. Loss of power. I don't think electric dies as I still had gauges. Just strange that the CEL is not being set. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted August 31 Author Share Posted August 31 Engine issue came back today. The car has been running great with no issues for over a month now. Yesterday, going down the freeway it happened again. Loss of power, rpms dropped going 60 mph. I shifted to N, and gave it a little gas, RPM went to 3K, I dropped it back into D and all was good for a few minutes. Then the freeway turned into a parking lot, with bumper to bumper traffic for about 5 miles. Power loss came back numerous times. RPM would drop a little, no power, it was like I was coasting. Drop it into N, RPM would increase with gas, drop it back into D and I had power again. Now it only lasted a few minutes and the power loss came back. No CEL. I got to my exit and headed home, only 2 miles to go. Emergency Flashers on and the power loss continued. A couple of times the engine died. Shift to N and crank, the engine would start back up. Drop it in D and limp along. I got it in the garage, Park selected and gave it a little gas. RPM 3K but it was hunting, RPM between 2500 and 3500. I turned it off and started it back up and now it would hold a steady RPM. OBDII showed pending miss fire on all 4. I've never had a Subaru perform this way and so intermittent over months. Weeks of normal driving, then it acts up again. NUTS, I say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted September 2 Author Share Posted September 2 Ran just like a Subaru should today. 15 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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