nelstomlinson Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 Just driving along and the engine shut down. The only stored code is P0340, cam position sensor. The P0170 fuel trim code was pending. We put in a CPS from an engine that ran when we parked it. Didn't fix it, so we checked continuity from the CPS connector to the B20 connector at the back end of the engine. Wires are good. We checked continuity from the B20 connector to the B84 connector on the ECU. Wires are good. What else should we check? We will have a new CPS from NAPA tomorrow, but new electrical parts are a crapshoot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 Should have added that we can clear the codes, try to start the engine and the P0340 comes back after a few seconds of cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 You will have to check to see if all the timing marks still line up. If not, redo and when you take the belt off, check to make sure there is no slop with the crank keyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 You can pull the left and right timing belt outter covers and the crank sensor to see all the marks without pulling the center cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 How can you see the crank mark w/o removing the cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 We'll push it into the shop tonight and get in to the timing belt. It's really weird that it could just suddenly skip a few teeth, but that is looking likely now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 How can you see the crank mark w/o removing the cover? If you line up the cam marks and pull the crank sensor you can see the crank gear mark through the hole. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 The timing belt was broken. I don't think we had even 40k miles on it. The toothed idler doesn't turn, so I suspect it seized up and snapped the belt. Anyway, we'll need to get a complete kit on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 Where is a good place to source a high quality complete kit with belt, tensioner, all the idlers and maybe a water pump too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 9 hours ago, lmdew said: How can you see the crank mark w/o removing the cover? If you line up the cam marks and pull the crank sensor you can see the crank gear mark through the hole. When is the last time you tried to pull a cam sensor that has been in there a while? Not hating just asking. They tend to be seized. Insofar as where, i have tried to stay with Aisin metal parts , Misuboshi belts are good but its hard to find them in a kit. Do you have the one or two piece tensioner? You can change the two to a one by replacing the mounting bracket, but if it is good leave it. O. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 It was a mitsuboshi belt that broke. We took the toothed idler off, and that's definitely what broke the belt: it's seized up solid. Pretty sure that one was factory original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 The kits I'm finding have GMB idlers, any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 Not the best but you may find yourself settling on them. NTN, Koyo bearings if you can find them. So that of course means the idlers. The tensioner as mentioned, see if you can get the more recent version with the bracket if your current tensioner is n/a. Is that toothed idle the same as other generations? Kits are getting tricky. Aisin seems to be the way to go but you also see them going to lesser quality as time moves on. Your belt was a correct one. Don’t sweat the name. If it has the timing marks as it should then save that until you are done with the next belt. It may show up unmarked if you get a kit these days. Good luck. You’ll be fine soon enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 (edited) 5 hours ago, nelstomlinson said: The kits I'm finding have GMB idlers, any good? No. If you’ve gotta be cheap get a Subaru belt and lower cogged pulley. You can even leave the covers off to monitor the condition of the other pulleys. The others fail less often and the belt can slide over them instead of everything turning to $!&’jnj!$&! immediately if it fails. The pulleys will rust if it sees a lot of winter snow treatment. Still can run it as the riding and contact surfaces stay clean but it does rust If you get an aftermarket kit don’t use the included bolt, they’re substandard low grade metal and I’ve seen them shear within months of installation (not installed by me) No point replacing the pump. Those EJ pumps fail so rarely you have far more chance of your new aftermarket parts failing than an old pump if it’s OEM. At most maybe it leaks later but probably not. I’ve never seen a failed OEM EJ water pump. Other Subaru water pumps I would replace proactively but not cost conscious EJ jobs. Edited June 15 by idosubaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 15 hours ago, nelstomlinson said: The timing belt was broken. I don't think we had even 40k miles on it. The toothed idler doesn't turn, so I suspect it seized up and snapped the belt. Anyway, we'll need to get a complete kit on the way. something is seriously messed up in that picture. The toothed pulley is not next to the cam sprocket. there’s a smooth pulley next to each cam, there shouldn’t be a toothed cogged idler all the way up there. I’m guessing it totally disintegrated or sheared the bolt off and jumped up that high. That’s the one most likely to fail by 100 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 The current water pump is an aftermarket already, we replaced that around '17 I think. I need to get the maintenance log out of the glovebox and re-read when we did what on this one. I think what you're seeing that looks wrong is the broken belt is bunched up above and left of the cam pulley. It does look a little like the toothed idler, I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 We got the new timing belt in, and now when we try to crank it over it doesn't want to turn. We can bar it over by hand with no problem, if we take the spark plugs out it spins over quickly with the starter, but with the plugs in place it sounds as if the engine is kicking back against the starter. The Aisin waterpump kit was all made in Japan stuff except for the Mitsuboshi timing belt, which was from Thailand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 And my son just found a picture of the crank pulley properly lined up. We should have lined up the square mark, not the notch 90 degrees away from it. Oh, well, we'll do it again tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Also make sure you’re not lining up the arrow on the cam wheels - look for the little line on the rim of the wheel and line that up with the mark on the cam cover. Sounds like you’re almost there! Someone else might know - ‘96 an interference engine? The Gen2 EJ22 got a bump in power and I believe is an interference engine as a result. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 This one is definitely not interference, we can bar the crank over with the cam in any position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 The problem is that we don't do this every year, so we don't remember about the square mark versus the little arrow. We also just realized we forgot to pull the pin out of the tensioner, so we would have had to go back in there anyway! Oh, well, that's going to make redoing it way easier, so it's all working out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvu Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 like they say, fifth time's a charm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 I don't think we've ever done a Subie timing belt in just once, we have to do and redo every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelstomlinson Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 And it's running. It turns out that there isn't a little square mark on the front of the crank cog, instead there's a little line on the tone ring in the back. _THAT'S_ what has to be lined up with the witness mark on the engine and with the line on the belt. The last one I did was the '02, and it did have that square mark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 I forgot to mention that about the crank gear. Glad you got it sorted! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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