EJ22 Distributor?

[THAWA]

Like I said--I don't want a ECU---and don't want to do all the re-mapping that using a ECU would require--I am not using a Turbo--the class I'm running in is a Non-turbo'd/under 2.5L group.

what do you need to remap? If you're just using a regular engine there's nothign you'll need to remap to use an ecu. I didnt know the turbo part though

 

To create a crank-fire coil pak system would by default require more electronics than I want to use--The cash involved would be better spent in tires-suspension & track fees---The car at present with a 1.8 non-turbo is running faster than the older WRX's & a few sec behind the newer STi's---so to increase the engine size 400cc with the same formula I'm using should cut about 2/3 sec off my lap times---

You dont have to create a coil pack. The engine you buy ought to come with one, and if it doesnt you can pick one up on ebay for 10-20 bucks or so. Also if you buy a long block it should come with all the wiring needed for this. What do you mean by older wrx's, the oldest are only 3 years old! and even the oldest STi's are 1 year old

 

Lastly-I suggest you look at a early 2.2 engine--That "plug" is the machined pass-thru for the cam-not a "oil or coolant return"--it has a small amount of oil pressure, as all the cam galleys in both heads, but only as a by-product, as this is only a drain-back for the rear journal.

I've been looking at an early 2.2 engine for more than two years thank you. The "plug" is designed for an oil or coolant return, I forget which one though. You should take a look at a ej22g.

 

And no, I'm not carrying a FSM or a multi--to redesign back to a simpler system makes it more reliable--not less.

 

This car started as a project to see if I could build a "good" autocross car for under $2000--to date, I am constantly placing 2nd or 3rd in my group--not bad for a 22 year old car.

Just because something is simpler doesnt automatically make it more reliable.

 

 

So now let me ask you, what are you going to do about the maf, knock sensor, coolant sensors, and emmissions?

I'm glad your car is doing great, but I'm just trying to tell you that going from fi to carb is not going to make your car better. Simpler to work on, but not better.

[subusolo2nut]

Look--I see that this thread is going nowhere--I would need to remap any electronics due to the mods to the engine-this is a RACE CAR--NO Emissions required--engine will be bored-cammed-compression about 12to1 & use a free-flow exaust with no emission units--I'm glad you embrace all the modern electronics--I have to work with & trouble-shoot them on a daily basis--I am a factory tech & DON'T want all of that on a car I race on the weekends---In any case--Oregon only requires a car pass emissions for 20 years, so even if I want to drive it to work everyday--I still could & presently do.

 

I LIKE CARBS--I have been working with side-draft Webers & Dellortos for over 20 years now & like doing it--Most people think that multiple carb tuning is a dark art--I like working with them--

 

SO YOU LIKE WHAT YOU WANT & I'LL LIKE WHAT I WANT--unless you can prove to me that your way is the only way to go, I'll go mine.

 

When you've raced for over 20 years, you can tell me what is a "better" way.

 

As for the WRX & STi--one of my friends has a 2002 WRX & another has a New STi--I still beat the WRX by 2 sec & was just behind the Sti--The GLF weighs less than 2000lb & that's how I've been doing it--

[THAWA]

Didnt;' know about the upgrading the engine part either, now I see why you'd have to remap

 

I'm glad you like working on carbs, it's great to see someone not going with whats hip and popular.

 

I can tell you're one of those old guys that does things the old fashion way, there's nothing wrong with that (some of the best people at whatever they do do it the old fashion way), but that's just what i can see.

 

I thought I had said it before but evidently not. I'm glad you're doing better than people in more powerful cars. Driverskill goes a long way. Anyway, you're right, this topic is going nowhere

[subusolo2nut]

Sorry about being heavy handed in my last post--The temp in the shop was about 110 today & the workload was "hell"--I was just wondering if you are talking about the other plugs in the passenger head--there are water & oil ports--I'm talking about the cam rear thrust "plug"

[subusolo2nut]

O--Thanks about the driving part--I enjoy 'cross--you might give it a try-100th of a sec is all it takes to win & you need skill-a great-handling car & good luck. We get people from as far away as Redding & Portland to come here & race--most likely the best track for about two hundred miles around---

[Setright]

I am sure you can find reason to shoot at this too, but here goes:

 

The carb requires a restriction to work. Fuel injection means your intake can be free of restriction. Which would provide better flow and throttle response?

 

Bang on two dual throat carbs and you may overcome this. However, you will lose low to medium torque, and throttle response. Each cylinder will now have to pull in it's own air from a plenum of nearly still air. With the 1 into 4 of the FI EJ-engine, the air in the plenum is moving faster.

[subusolo2nut]

Well, You are right & wrong--You have a restriction too--Carbs & fuel injection both share throttle plates--which are a varable restriction in the intake--In the case of fuel injection, you have one plate--normally in the 50mm to 80mm size (depends on engine size)--I'm putting two 40mm Dellortos on--which each have two 40mm throttle plates--so four plates at 40mm--owing to the fact that the total won't equal 160mm due to internal resistance (venturies), I should see a real amount of 120mm or so--So, in reality, the carbs will have less resistance--which will lower my low end throttle response, but give me more high end power. As for still air in the intake--also right--at low rpms--which might cause fuel pooling & drop-out--but once the engine is running over 2000 or so, the air stack will be moving fast enough to avoid drop-out.

 

So, the main difference between FI & carbs is where the fuel enters the air stack--you inject X amount about 3/4" from the valve & I'll spray X amount about 6" from the valve(s) (negative point), but be able to increase the total CFM intake available to the engine two-fold.(positive point)

 

Good question--as in anything involving racing, there are pros & cons

[JWX]

if your going to build this one why not just build the EA-81? I mean you already have it, it bolts to your tranny and it only sounds like you need about 150-160 hp to beat the STI. I mean if you deck the head, do soem good head work,(port and poilsh, 3 angle valve job) install 1600(EA-71) pistons (or get some made up) and a good exuast and cam you should be there. I just don't see the point in going to an EJ if you don't like electronics. you can get power out of the EA and it would take prolly the same amount that your going to put into the EJ. but do what you want to do I'm just playing devils advocate here

[MorganM]

if your going to build this one why not just build the EA-81? I mean you already have it, it bolts to your tranny and it only sounds like you need about 150-160 hp to beat the STI. I mean if you deck the head, do soem good head work,(port and poilsh, 3 angle valve job) install 1600(EA-71) pistons (or get some made up) and a good exuast and cam you should be there. I just don't see the point in going to an EJ if you don't like electronics. you can get power out of the EA and it would take prolly the same amount that your going to put into the EJ. but do what you want to do I'm just playing devils advocate here

Add a turbo and then you might be talking about 160 HP

 

I thought the EJ electronics were pretty straight forward. Especially when you get a lot of junk out of the way and think about it in sections/systems. Also a lot more potential for power out of an EJ. More displacement, more valves, more advanced fuel delivery, and aftermarket support.

[subusolo2nut]

Yea--I like the power possiblilties with the EJ22--I just need another Dellorto (about $150 with jets), cut'n'reweld the intake for the dual carbs & set the distributor--then bore the engine-flow & shave the heads & get some good cams--looks like $700/$800 to me--the 5 speed out of a Brighton 2WD is costing me $300---So it looks like about 150Hp for a grand & the car will most likely be 3/5sec faster at the track:grin:

[bajavwnsoobnut]

just a side note thawa and I don't mean to insult you or anything and I don't want any flamage from this but the WRX has been around longer than 3 years. Here in the states yes but the world no. just a clarification

[THAWA]

oh i know, but I didnt think he'd be autocrossing against cars not sold here

[bajavwnsoobnut]

k and ya never know heck for rallyX we are competeing(sp?) against stuff like a 1991 Mini Cooper and also someone has converted a early imp to wrx specs and stuff like that