Craigar Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 (edited) When I went to take out this upper left bolt it was feeling really tight, then "rubbery", then the head broke off ... I tried "liquid Wrench" with a nut on the end taping it a bunch with a hammer to "induce vibration" gripping it real tight with needle nose vice grips, etc. and letting it baste for a couple of days.. SO I thought maybe I could use it as a stud with a sleeve nut and it torqued down good. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/album/897-ea82-water-pump-broken-bolt-fix/ Edited July 4 by Craigar added images 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newmexguy Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Neat, interesting fix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 I found them on Amazon, local big box hardware stores don't have em ... we can by nut and bolt kits for "baby cribs" but all the nuts are same length. this seller has them in 15mm and 20mm length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VT6Y58J?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 That’s an awesome fix for a crappy situation! Good on you for thinking outside the box and even better for sharing! I’m guessing you had to drill out the hole in the water pump to accommodate that style of nut, correct? Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Fabulous fix. Thanks for posting. did you cover it in antiseize? You used a lock wager under the head? The metal is probably low grade and will corrode easily. if the timing covers are still intact that’ll help. Not a big deal, much better to deal with that one or two more times in the distant future if needed than the mess of getting that stud out. I think I had one years ago with a bolt entirely missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 (edited) Shoot, I bet you have not completed the job , otherwise, I am forecasting some foul language coming up. I have just installed same brand pump to one of my EA82s Get your verniers on the job to measure ID of the hole for the metal pipe that fits in with the supplied O-ring. After not getting mine in with silastic stuff as a lube, then with petroleum jelly - no way Jose. Measured up about 0.9 mm smaller ID than the old pump. All pumps I have had in 30 years all had a machined finish to this inlet port on the pump. This one- a cast finish, so not to the specification i expected. I ended up using an imperial O-ring, then shoving it in the other new pump I bought same time, twisting it in dry, until the non machined surface wore the o-ring down to a fit, tight fit. Gooped up with blue max or the like. Job done. I sleeved the bolt holes in pump housing with a metric heat shrink tube to isolate the alloy to steel bolts. I also filled up underside weep hole - if it is gonna leak from the seal, I want to see it up topside thank you very much ! I love those sleeve nuts - thanks for showing detailed photo and details of where you got them. I want a box of various sizes for the future Cabinet making world stuff made industrial strength. I also copped a part number picking issue when pumps supplied, bought 110mm ones, received 105mm. I got a 99% refund, and got to keep them. I made up a 5mm spacer from a 57mm metal disc from the metal supply shop, wasted loads of time making a hole or two in it to go between pump pulley and flange. Working at the moment. Edited July 7 by Steptoe's photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 (edited) Whoah! yea I haven't got it finished, got/been waylaid with "acute viral bronchitis" as they proclaimed in the ER on July 7th ..that now seems to be past the viral stage but it's bad to where I'm rattling and can't get full air capaciity .. I think the hole for the pipe looks like a casting so I better deal with that before I go much further.. and I was getting ready to torque down the crankshaft pulley and noticed 3 "timing marks"that look factory installed, but no obvious way the the pulley is "keyed" to the crank? SO I don't want to torque it down until I know.. ? thanks! Edited August 9 by Craigar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 You can key the pulley in to the crank in some respect if use the cam sprocket as a drill guide, do offset two roll pin arrangement in 5mm roll pins. But why bother ? I am planning to do a harmonic balancer mounted 36 minus 1 tooth trigger wheel set up for megajolt EDIS4 - 1 day ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 upon closer inspection 3 "timing marks" are NOT factory, they almost look installed with a chisel - and I can easily see the stock marks on the flywheel and checked timing with a Xenon light gun using them a few years ago. - so why bother, don't need em = Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 (edited) On 7/6/2024 at 7:50 AM, idosubaru said: Fabulous fix. Thanks for posting. did you cover it in antiseize? You used a lock wager under the head? The metal is probably low grade and will corrode easily. if the timing covers are still intact that’ll help. Not a big deal, much better to deal with that one or two more times in the distant future if needed than the mess of getting that stud out. I think I had one years ago with a bolt entirely missing. They are stainless steel and used a locked washer and enough liquid wrench in the rusted threads to fake as anti seize I guess... I doubt I'll ever take this apart again if successful repair initially - considering getting a Soobie HEV (or maybe Toyota, Honda or KIA if too good of deal to pass up - and Toyota made all the electric power train parts in the Soobie HEV) Edited August 10 by Craigar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 (edited) On 7/7/2024 at 1:47 AM, Steptoe's photos said: Shoot, I bet you have not completed the job , otherwise, I am forecasting some foul language coming up. I have just installed same brand pump to one of my EA82s Get your verniers on the job to measure ID of the hole for the metal pipe that fits in with the supplied O-ring. After not getting mine in with silastic stuff as a lube, then with petroleum jelly - no way Jose. Measured up about 0.9 mm smaller ID than the old pump. All pumps I have had in 30 years all had a machined finish to this inlet port on the pump. This one- a cast finish, so not to the specification i expected. I ended up using an imperial O-ring, then shoving it in the other new pump I bought same time, twisting it in dry, until the non machined surface wore the o-ring down to a fit, tight fit. Gooped up with blue max or the like. Job done. Piss = yup ...let the games begin - and I noticed that it wasn't machined before I put it in but figured they knew what they were doing ... yea, they were "saving a buck!" at our expense.. well at least nothings in the way *maybe* I'll come up with a way do a bit of a poor mans polish BUT I'd have to pre stuff the hole with a rag and hope to get all the sanding dust out..... I'm in L.A. any easy way to get an "imperial" o-ring here - maybe Home Depot but almost all the little stuff there is from Asia... Edited August 10 by Craigar ..another brilliant idea.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 maybe I could use a brake cylinder hone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe's photos Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 I'm in Australia where went metirc 50 and 51 years ago , yet in that same week, I trekked into the Albrecht bros. discount store - ALDI and they had their specials - o-rings kit, metric or imperial - take your choice ! I already had a kit from a previous special. Yes, Chinese sourced and not the best stuff when exposed to our UV light, but, sealed inside blue goop - should be OK. OK so far. I would rather you rub the o-ring down instead of subjecting the coolant side to anything that might damage seal - the bag warns to flush of nasties before you fit the pump ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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