ThosL Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 I have this 2002 Forester with 265K miles that has been stuttering/sputtering in the last month or two. When the timing pulley failed, we had the machine shop do the half of the engine showing the low compression. I'm not getting other codes connected to performance, evaporative cannister, etc., just the p130, which is the front oxygen sensor. I'm getting some oil burning puffs, say when I'm going downhill on the uphill acceleration, burns oil then which I assume is valves. I've changed out the plug wires and ignition coil; I pulled a couple plugs which are ok, the plugs have always been fine. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm thinking the p130 may be indicative of excess exhaust possibly a threat to the cat. converter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 Check compression. Sounds like rings to me. What is your oil consumption? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted July 21 Author Share Posted July 21 Oil consumption is not bad, I'd agree the side that was not redone may be the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 When you say the machine shop did the side of the engine showing the low compression, did they just replace the valves? Or did they replace pistons and rings too? If they did pistons and rings, what condition were the two from the repaired side of the engine in? Asking as my L series used to drive awesome until you coasted for a period of time then got back on the throttle again. The worst situation was a long down hill section off throttle - back on the throttle again it was a smoke screen out the back! Replacing the PCV valve didn’t fix it. From memory the issue was cracked ring landing between the lower compression ring and the oil rings. I’m not saying this is the issue, anything is possible though. Changing your PCV valve could help. Sounds more likely that you’ve got stuffed or incorrectly fitted (stuffed!) valve stem seals. The vacuum generated at high revs with the throttle closed could pull quite a bit of oil past a damaged valve stem seal, especially on the intake valves. Not what you want to hear, this is one thing that could cause the symptom you’re experiencing. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 (edited) 15 hours ago, el_freddo said: When you say the machine shop did the side of the engine showing the low compression, did they just replace the valves? Or did they replace pistons and rings too? If they did pistons and rings, what condition were the two from the repaired side of the engine in? Asking as my L series used to drive awesome until you coasted for a period of time then got back on the throttle again. The worst situation was a long down hill section off throttle - back on the throttle again it was a smoke screen out the back! Replacing the PCV valve didn’t fix it. From memory the issue was cracked ring landing between the lower compression ring and the oil rings. I’m not saying this is the issue, anything is possible though. Changing your PCV valve could help. Sounds more likely that you’ve got stuffed or incorrectly fitted (stuffed!) valve stem seals. The vacuum generated at high revs with the throttle closed could pull quite a bit of oil past a damaged valve stem seal, especially on the intake valves. Not what you want to hear, this is one thing that could cause the symptom you’re experiencing. Cheers Bennie I will ask them, what is customary? The machine shop charged $250 for the half of the engine they worked on. I was getting the following codes before I erased them: p130, 447,452,171, 107. Some of those could have been the result of the loose battery cable. Now just evap. system and 130. I just ordered a PCV, will see if it makes any difference. I pulled the rubber hose off and it seemed as if there was a fair amount of oil below the rubber hose intake. Edited July 23 by ThosL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 I would say a normal job is just replace valves and possibly valve stems if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 (edited) So, the O2 sensor (front one) replacement is not indicated? It would not cause the sputtering/stuttering? Updated; changed out the PCV, no real difference. Car is fine until it warms up, then the sputtering, so probably heat related or sensor. Edited July 26 by ThosL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 (edited) Put in an Amazon MAP sensor earlier in the year, could have failed; just google symptoms on these failing. I changed it out again, no big difference; will try the spark plug extender so the p420 code is addressed. Edited August 26 by ThosL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 (edited) Also changed out the downstream O2 sensor earlier today, runs a lot better now, no sputtering! The old sensor was carboned up/black soot. New one does not have an opening that I can see. Edited September 8 by ThosL 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 AFAIK, that year still used the open loop/closed loop tuning in the ECU. Which means it's running off 'set values' 'til it warms up, then starts reading the sensors - such as O2. I don't want to be the one that suggests an O2 sensor - and it not fix the issue. If you do, it should be OEM or Denso quality. Also, the CTS/temp sensor can cause issues like you described. Ideally you'd have an OBD2 reader/scanner - even the low-end $ ones can read 'live data' for O2 voltage and CTS temps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted September 16 Author Share Posted September 16 With 267K plus miles, and burning some oil, I don't see a solution to O2 sensors detecting stuff that the catalytic converter cannot neutralize. So will probably have to live with the periodic loss of power for the duration..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted September 23 Author Share Posted September 23 Today, I got a couple of the spark plug extenders, will need to drill out the quarter inch orifice before putting it back in. Also due to the oil burn issue, have stepped up the oil to synthetic 10w 40. I've also thought about pulling the catalytic converter and soaking it in acetone or other solvent as the Cataclean is short term, I don't want to get a clogged cat. converter I had around 3 years ago and replaced it then. I could also just pull out the cat. converter and put pipes in there, not sure how involved that is and what you do with the sensors. 2002 2.5 engine 267K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 (edited) Be prepared for the stink of exhaust. My '98 runs no cats (turbocharged>>exhaust) and can't drive around w/the windows down b4 it gets too much. Thankfully the AC works. Edited September 25 by wtdash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted September 25 Author Share Posted September 25 4 hours ago, wtdash said: Be prepared for the stink of exhaust. My '98 runs no cats (turbocharged>>exhaust) and can't drive around w/the windows down b4 it gets too much. Thankfully the AC works. The question then is in a working catalytic converter, where does the high oil content exhaust go? The metals turn it into harmless emissions? I'm drilling out the aluminum oxygen sensor extender with a Bosch carbide, diamond tip bit, not easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 ^...I just saw this as my USMB notifcations haven't worked - in years. But not much help here...if you have 'high oil content' the CC isn't going to neutralize that, IMHO, and you may end up fouling a replacement O2 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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