crankshaft pully. 98 2.5l

[StephenA]

98 outback, 2.5l

I've had this car for 6 months. Now I think I know why the guy sold it.

The crankshaft pully is wearing out. I've been tightening the bolt, but it keeps loosening. So today I pulled it off.

As suspected, the pully is heavily damaged. I have a spare, so no worries there.

The keeper key (cannot for the life of me, remember the proper name) is nearly ready to break.

If the pictures load, you can see what I'm talking about.

So, the question is, do I have to pull the timing belt in order to get that keeper out? If I do that, I guess I should put a new belt on.

I'm dumped a buncha money into the frankenmotor build. (Seperate car) So this car is adding insult to injury.

[nvu]

Yes, the timing belt needs to come off to replace the woodruff key.  It's a half moon shape and can't slide out without removing the sprocket completely. 

 

You need to address why the bolt doesn't fully tighten first though.  If it can't get to at least 90ft-lbs, the key will fail and take along whatever parts associated.  It could be bad luck that the previous owner didn't tighten the crank bolt enough, but it also could be stripped threads in the crank since you noted the bolt isn't getting tighter.

[StephenA]

Oh, the bolt get tighter. It just backs off.

I'm going to put blue thread locker on it.

I experimented with the frankenmotor, which is on an engine stabs, and was unable to get the key out.

So, pulling the radiator and fans, then dig into tbe belt.

Not doing the water pump at this time. I just need it up and running for now.

 

[el_freddo]

Looking at the cam belt off to the right in that photo, third tooth, the cam belt looks to have a decent crack in it. I’d be concerned about that! 

Definitely get in there and sort it out with that new cam belt you’re talking about  

Cheers 

Bennie

[nvu]

It sounds like your threads are gone, can you try threading in the bolt without the crank pulley to see if you can find some good threads left?  If so, you can get a longer crank bolt to grab those threads with the pulley on.

You really want to be able to torque it down to full specs.  It's the force of the bolt clamping the pulley down that transfers power.  The key alone wasn't designed to bear the torque of both cams, crank pulley, and all the accessories.

They key is mainly for alignment of that sprocket, the crank pulley isn't as critical.  It looks like the sprocket is still aligned even if the key looks dinged up.  If you can find some good threads further down, then just leaving the timing as is and using a longer bolt should be adequate.  File the key to get the new crank on flush, it doesn't need to be perfectly aligned.

[lmdew]

125 foot-pounds it what I take the bolt to.