kayakertom Posted November 3, 2024 Share Posted November 3, 2024 The instructions from Moosen was very helpful... This was to clean out a rodent nest... Not much fun getting to the heater box! Found out that my replacement core does not match what I need; the old one was not leaking but I wouldn't want to go through this ordeal again. Trunk and back seat filled with all the parts removed to get to the box. I'll bet when things go back together that I'll have extra parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted November 3, 2024 Share Posted November 3, 2024 Good luck. If you can’t find parts catalogs online let me know. They have the exploded views that help in times like this. Service manual might help some too. Been ages since I’ve messed with those 85-89s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted November 8, 2024 Share Posted November 8, 2024 Love the three door coupe!! We didn’t get them in Oz. Special import only and they weren’t known or weren’t popular. I’d have one! I’ve done this dash removal several times. Not too bad once you know what you’re doing. Best of luck sourcing a new heater core, mind you, your unit looks like it’s an all copper unit without the plastic end tanks that can let go in a big way! You could have this checked over by a radiator specialist to get the ok. Regards Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted December 27, 2024 Author Share Posted December 27, 2024 Update on the heater core project (I was traveling and working on other things but now getting back to the project): Dropped the old heater core off to the Beaverton Macs shop for inspection / pressure testing: https://macsradiator.com/ just talked to the technician and it holds pressure but some fins are a little loose. Guess what it would cost to recore? $495! Plan now is to reinstall the old unit but also to put the aluminum one in place of the AC evaporator (cut off some of the pipes and add hose extensions out the firewall) and then if the old heated core leaks to move the heater hoses to the new unit. Has anyone done this? Photo of the AC Evaporator in half the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 Have paused the repair and am still looking for either a lower cost recore or finding a ready made unit that could be substituted. Hart Radiator in Kelso, WA says ~ $350 for a recore. Have asked auto parts stores if they can search by core dimensions = 7" x 9" x 1.25" but that doesn't seem to be possible. Will see if an AI search will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 A decade ago I got an all brass/copper unit for $AU220. I dare say price skyrocketed due to lack of units being moved and possibly special order only with long lead times. Get a new all metal unit and forget about it. The wallet pain sticks around for a while but you’ll get over it when you have long lasting reliable heat every time you need it. Don’t shove a second hand unit in there, ask me how I know this is a crap move!! Twice Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Here's what AI says, shows promise: Finding a heater core with exact dimensions of 7" x 9" x 1.25" inches is challenging. However, the APDI 9010503 HVAC Heater Core is a close match, measuring approximately 7.75" x 9" x 1.25" inches. Amazon This heater core is constructed from aluminum and is compatible with various vehicle models. If precise dimensions are critical for your application, consider reaching out to specialized manufacturers like The Brassworks, which offers custom fabrication and restoration services for heater cores. The Brassworks They can create a heater core tailored to your specific size requirements. Before making a purchase, ensure compatibility with your vehicle or system by consulting with a professional mechanic or contacting the manufacturer directly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 AI is getting results closer to something that could be used: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRCNH9010200 Cut off a bit of the pipes, re-flare and add hose.. https://www.carparts.com/details/Nissan/Sentra/Replacement/2000-2006/REPN503001.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 OK, I found a replacement heater core that fits in the plastic heater box: https://www.carparts.com/Heater-Core/Replacement/REPM503005 I'm looking into using Sharkbite 1/2" 90 degree elbows to reuse portions of the old piping: https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-Connect-Plumbing-Fitting-UR248A/dp/B0C4QWMXST/ref=asc_df_B0C4QWMXST 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Mmmm tasty ! Nice job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newmexguy Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 (edited) All the "old timey" radiator shops here (las Cruces NM) are gone. A few persist in older industrial areas E of downtown El Paso, forty miles south. There are few cheap options left. Your approach is interesting and resourceful. I've heard good things about "Maine Radiator" but suspect they too, are very spendy. Edited February 2 by newmexguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted Monday at 03:12 AM Author Share Posted Monday at 03:12 AM (edited) Some slow progress: Cleaned and renewed the foam on the flaps; cleaned the debris out of the fan squirrel cage. Switched to 1/2" - 90 degree copper connectors to connect the old brass heater pipes to the new aluminum heater core. The reason for this is that the brass pipe is thinner than regular plumbing pipe and where it needs to be cut is not very round due to the factory bends - to solder, the brass needs to be a tight fit to the copper, so it takes a little effort with a proper sized socket to reshape the brass. Photos: Foam tape used for the heater flaps. Foam tape on flaps. Old heater pipes marked for lining up with plastic supports prior to cutting. Squirrel cage before cleaning. 1/2" copper 90 degree joints soldered to old cut brass pipes. New aluminum heater core set up to braze to the copper connected old pipes. This is the brazing rod I am trying to use: https://parts.rheem.com/product/RPD-SW-ALCU5-5 First attempt not successful (rod not flowing)! Am trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong - any hvac people out there??? Edited Monday at 03:14 AM by kayakertom spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted 2 hours ago Author Share Posted 2 hours ago After some Al-Cu brazing practice, the old brass pipes are now attached to the new aluminum heater core. Had to redo the brass pipes to the copper elbows because the melting temperature of the AL-Cu brazing sticks is higher than the plumbing solder used for the brass pipes to the other end of the copper elbows. The brass pipes are made of thin brass, so that necessitated using brazed elbows rather than the shark-bite type. Next step is to slightly modify the plastic bosses that anchor the pipes to the heater box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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