xocomil21 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 I just replaced the oil pressure sensor switch on the drivers side of my 2010 Forester. The videos I saw said to be very careful to only torque it to spec - 12 lbs/ft - as it's very easy to crack the cylinder head. The old switch came out easily, but the new one won't sit flush with the cylinder head before I hit 12 ft/lbs. I did try putting the old one back in and same thing with resistance coming in before it was sitting flush (ie. the threads not sticking out a little). I'll admit I increased the torque to about 13-14 ft/lbs due to using an extension, but left it at that, as I didn't want to hear a "CRACK." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvu Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) As long as it doesn't leak it's fine. They are tapered threads so likely the new one has more meat on it and sits higher. Is the 2010 an EJ engine? If so don't worry about cracking the block. The oil galley has a nut with a tapered hole for the sensor. Worst case you only need to replace that nut if the sensor threads get ruined. Random picture, but you see the nut where the pressure switch goes on to. Edited January 28 by nvu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Yeah, as long as it does not leak. I tend to use a little teflon tape on the threads .( keeping it back from the first, say three threads.) (No tape if it already has some type of coating already on the threads(from manufacturer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 On 1/27/2025 at 10:40 PM, nvu said: As long as it doesn't leak it's fine. They are tapered threads so likely the new one has more meat on it and sits higher. Is the 2010 an EJ engine? If so don't worry about cracking the block. The oil galley has a nut with a tapered hole for the sensor. Worst case you only need to replace that nut if the sensor threads get ruined. Random picture, but you see the nut where the pressure switch goes on to. That's true of the main oil pressure switch. But he said "on the head". The VVT switches thread right into the head casting. If that cracks, it's no small project to repair. Yes, BSP pipe thread, which is tapered to help it seal. It should not bottom out. Thread sealant of some sort should be added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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