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custom Y pipe layout pics.


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My goal here was to match the lenght of the y pipes. This is not the exact perportions but you can see the flow path. I'm going to try and piece it together this weekend.

 

I also machined flat the exhaust manifold attachment point and ported it.

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I wonder how much it'd run to get a custom y-pipe like that welded up? I don't have access to a mig welder, just an arc welder, and my welding skills aren't up to the task. I've been thinking about taking some measurements, drawing up a CAD model, and then ordering the sections off JC Whitney & whatever catalytic converter site I found that one time.

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Just curious is all.

 

Why the "V" bend? Wouldn't it be better to have it straighter behind the "Y", than that bend?

The V bend is called the collector. It gives you the best flow when joining two pipe into one.

 

The bend after the collector is to avoid my transmistion cross member.

 

I got the Y pieced together today. I will tig weld it tonight. Oh ya did I mention it's all stainless steel.

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The V bend is called the collector. It gives you the best flow when joining two pipe into one.

 

The bend after the collector is to avoid my transmistion cross member.

 

I got the Y pieced together today. I will tig weld it tonight. Oh ya did I mention it's all stainless steel.

LOOKING GOOD
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Looks good man---Two questions--What is the pipe ID & what are you going to finish the system with---:)

the Y is 1.75" and it's 2.0" after the collector.

 

I have a Raptor Turbo muffler on there now but, I don't like the tone at low rpm. I was thinking I would put on the Thrush 2'' and see how that works and sounds. It would definately fit better.

 

Also I plan on finishing it off with a spark arrestor for three reasons.

1, it's a spark arrestor. a good idea if your gonna be ripping through the woods around here.Especially with a more free flowing exhaust.

2, it will mellow out the sound a little. I like to here my car but the people a mile away proably don't

3, and proably the most functional is to control back pressure.The arrestor I bought has about 10 rings you can add or remove them to attain the perfect back pressure and change back pressure for different uses. Open it up to rally. close in down to get some low end power. basically I will have a tuneable exhaust.

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Hey, I like that! Still wonder about that S curve. However, if it's close to mandrel bends then I don't see any problems. REALLY wanna see how that looks under the car! That's awsome, man!
Here it on the car. It didn't fit as tight up in there as I wanted but it's my first time doing something like this. It's harder than you would think to make a part like this.
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I wonder how much it'd run to get a custom y-pipe like that welded up?

Same boat here man. I go to local welding/machine shops for this work. I usually pay $50/hour for just cutting and welding. If you have it all mocked up like the first image and bring it in that way they could do it in an hour or less easily. Most places have a 30 min or hour minimum however.

 

Start calling around :drunk:

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man, i know what willl complete this system nicely. a supertrapp!_!

i have one on my subaru, and it sounds great, and is a spark arrestor system. they sell megafone style mufflers, canister style, and just the endcaps that have the little discs for tuning. and they are stainless steel too.

you can usuallf find them for about 150. mines off of a motorcycle exh system. pm me if you need a deal, i work at tchd. harley dealer

 

and yes, stuff like this is always harder than it seems. i built a turbo manifold for my harley once, and it was a whole lot of tac welding, and grinding, and re cutting, and fitting.....

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man, i know what willl complete this system nicely. a supertrapp!_!

i have one on my subaru, and it sounds great, and is a spark arrestor system. they sell megafone style mufflers, canister style, and just the endcaps that have the little discs for tuning. and they are stainless steel too.

you can usuallf find them for about 150. mines off of a motorcycle exh system. pm me if you need a deal, i work at tchd. harley dealer

 

and yes, stuff like this is always harder than it seems. i built a turbo manifold for my harley once, and it was a whole lot of tac welding, and grinding, and re cutting, and fitting.....

So what you are saying is with a SuperTrapp it would be a fully custom and tuneable stainless steel exhuast system?

:banana:

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firstly nice setup .. been thinking about that myself

stainless is past my budget sadly

about that funky "s" curve

since the subie exhaust dumps out ont eh left/ drivers side.. a simple 45 deg or 2 90's would have maybe brought it out a tad bit better

with less snakeyness in the syseten ,,just my thought ,, :)

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Well it's done. sort of. I still need to make the hangers and install the O2 sensor as soon as I find the right size nut.

 

The spark arrestor does a good job at controlling back pressure. It was way too loud without it.

 

I think the matched pipe did the job. My car run noticablely smoother and even.

 

At 5200 rpm the car is really lively now.

 

I spent all day on this final stage and I'm super tired. now it's time to have a beer :drunk: cheers

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firstly nice setup .. been thinking about that myself

stainless is past my budget sadly

about that funky "s" curve

since the subie exhaust dumps out ont eh left/ drivers side.. a simple 45 deg or 2 90's would have maybe brought it out a tad bit better

with less snakeyness in the syseten ,,just my thought ,, :)

Ya it dumps out on the left but it curves right to avoid the trany cross memeber. just like the stock pipe

 

straight is proablly better for flow but you would compromise clearence to do so. I have smashed my pipe a few times so I'm going for clearence.Anyway the new system has no problem with flow now.

 

Stainless was out of my budget also but ,I know a guy who works for Muzzys which is a high performance muffler manufacturer for motorcycles. I payed $40 for the whole set up. Just the collector is a $150 part retail. I could have made it out of titanium but that's a little over the top and harder to weld.

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Well it's done. sort of. I still need to make the hangers and install the O2 sensor as soon as I find the right size nut.

 

The spark arrestor does a good job at controlling back pressure. It was way too loud without it.

 

I think the matched pipe did the job. My car run noticablely smoother and even.

 

At 5200 rpm the car is really lively now.

 

I spent all day on this final stage and I'm super tired. now it's time to have a beer :drunk: cheers

TOO loud? Never! :brow:

 

Glad you are happy with the results. Rev it UP!

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Looking good!

 

I here you on the, "harder to do than one thinks" part. Took me most of a day to lay-out and fit my duals under the '82, and they are straight pipes for the most part. Of course, it would of been easier, ifin I had a chop-saw and welder here, instead of trips to work to cut/tack weld.

 

On the O2 fitting, try a muffler shop, they have them, but not sure if they'd have any SS ones.

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Dude, I want one....but i dont need the bend to clear the trans tho...and you can just put, like...4 inches worth of that 2 inch pipe after the collector in a stright line...

 

How much? Dont need an O2 bung either.

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:slobber: ohh stainless pipes.

 

thats sweet and the welds dont look to shabby either. I do like the low profile bend around the cross member. I always seem to get the exhaust caught on things.

 

how bout a turbo set up?:brow:

I learned how to weld on this project so the welds get better as I went. Tig welders are really nice to use, no splatter. I also ground out the welds on the inside to improve flow, well the ones I could reach.

 

If I do another exhaust I think it will come out even better. I learned a lot on this project and I want to keep up on my welding skills plus I have a bunch of stainless left over.I just need to find a place to bend it. Everywhere around here either couldn't bend it or wouldn't bend it.Except for my friend who got me all the stuff but he just moved back to Califorina.

 

A turbo exhaust I think would be easier because I wouldn't try to match the Y pipe length( I know the turbo doesn't have the Y anyway ). Which was the crux of this job and the part I think I could do better. A turbo with stainless would be cool and it would make the pipe turn different colors after it got hot.

 

Thanks for everyones positive feedback. It's much appreciated.

 

Oh ya the_bard. how much would it cost. I think stainless is $5 a foot. I think a pro could do this job in a day or less, that's $ 250 to $400. I'm guessing I have about 18' of pipe on there so thats $90. I priced a stainless collector at $150 and I think you need that part to do it right.So I guesstimate $490 at the very minimum. Not many shops do stainless so that might be a monitary factor. Also I don't think a shop could legally build a system w/o a cat. I hope there is some usefull info in there somewhere.

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