carfreak85 Posted August 12, 2004 Share Posted August 12, 2004 How the **** do you get the studs that hold the old carb onto the manifold off? I tried the old two nut trick, but it just stretches the studs. I tried vice-grips and the stud broke. WTF is all I have to say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted August 12, 2004 Share Posted August 12, 2004 Hey Galyn, just take a deep breath and step back for a second............ Okay, now I'd say get the stud good and hot, then hit it with PB Blaster. Give it a wiggle back and forth. Unless there is any stud left sticking up, You'll probably be better of just getting a different intake. Sorry man wish I had more words of wisdom, but that's it. Later, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted August 12, 2004 Share Posted August 12, 2004 I had to use a vice grips on my first weber install. the vice grips kept spinning on the stud, so I tightened it up and squeezed it on... it was so tight that in the process of squeezing it so hard, a bone popped out of place in my neck... that smarted!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted August 12, 2004 Share Posted August 12, 2004 heat the surrounding area with a torch, use a stud extractor make sure you use GOOD VICE GRIPS NADE IN NEBRASKA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 12, 2004 Share Posted August 12, 2004 Screw the vice grips - I like a good small pipe wrench for a job like that. The harder you turn, the harder it grips.... Seriously tho - just find another manifold - they are a dime a dozen. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 13, 2004 Author Share Posted August 13, 2004 Ok I finally got the studs out. First I tried heating them with a hot air gun, but that didn't work at all. Then I tried using a blow-torch. That did the trick! So the weber is all hooked up (Throttle and choke) but I haven't done the vaccum hoses or fuel lines yet because the carb is missing the male fuel in barb. Well, thanks for all the suggestions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 Fuel barb from the Hitachi will work. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted August 13, 2004 Author Share Posted August 13, 2004 That had crossed my mind, but the barb from the hitachi has a large threaded end that uses a 12mm wrench to install. The weber looks like it used a press fit barb, plus the hitachi barb looks a bit larger.. If this has worked for you before, then I'll go look at it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 I personally haven't done it, but Skip did, and we talked at length about it over email. He was concerned that I didn't have a return fitting - that it might damage my pump, and sugested I use the Hitachi barb. So far it hasn't hurt me not having the return, so I'm sticking with my stock Weber fitting. Now that's not to say that your Weber's casting isn't different than the ones that come in the Subaru kit.... But I would think it's the same, you just need to run a tap in there to make the threads for the barb. Or like you said - find a press fit one. Personally, I would go buy a grade 8 bolt the same size and thread as the barb, take a die grinder and make my own tap out of it. It's just aluminum after all..... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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