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You guys out there with 6 inch lifts


RenaissanceMan
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I just had a question for those that have done this. What exactly do you people do to lengthen the steering linkage on an EA81? Yesterday I was at school and did some major fab work and still ran into a couple problems. I took the the double U joint piece used on ea82 cars, cut it in half, and lengthened it with solid rod and welding. Then I took the lower piece that bolts the the steering dampener and shortened that one about 3 inches, so I had two U-joints spaced about 6 inches or so apart. The problem I am running into is the top U-joint is too steep of an angle I guess and binds up a little whenever I turn the wheel over to the left. Mind you I am running 28" ssr's so I need my steering linkage to be "beefy", and no I dont want power steering either.

 

of you people that have done this before, what exactly did you do?

 

Thanks,

-Mike

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Power steering is totally the way to go. Seriously. It gives you so much more control off-road - it's like a different car.

 

Sounds like you need to get your u-joints farther apart. More distance = less angle. Shorten the peice that attaches to the rack, and shorten the column, then try it.

 

GD

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the three inch lift, has less than 3 inches of extra length in that area. did you lengthen it 6 inches?

never done, or seen the 6 inch lift, so im just guessing here.

i dont have power steering on my 4 runner, and run 31s with no problem, even rock crawling, and high speed, back roads.

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mind you my lift was home made, but what i did was take the splined part off the ea81 rack and cut it in half, lengthened it as much as needed, and used the ea82 double u-joint to couple that to the steering column.

 

mine was a bit hard to steer, but it was a manual rack with 16 inch chevy wheels drilled to fit, HEFTY!

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on ea82s the shaft coming out of the firewall has an inch or so of extra splines. You can cut an inch off the end, and groove the shaft for the clamping bolt. Dunno if its the same on ea81s, maybe your talking about the same thing anyways :rolleyes: Just an idea. On my ea82 with power steering I am lengthening the double u-joint, cutting that inch off the column, and moving the crossmember forward, with suspension arms angled back to keep the wheelbase. That should give me good steering angles.

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big tars yo, its called real life experience.

power steering is for wussies

Fine by me - keep your manual rack - more power racks for me.

 

EVERYONE who has driven my wagon off-road swears they will never build another one without it. It's not about turning force - it's about the buffering action that stops the wheel from being jerked out of your hands.

 

A 4 runner has no bearing on this conversation - it has completely different caster, different turn ratio's in the rack, and different steering linkage. You can't compare them at all. Even attempting to compare the two is just plain ignorant.

 

GD

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I used a basic double joint and a NEW high quality rag joint that I inspect at each oil change, 5000miles so far and it looks great.

 

Let me put in a third option to the power steering argument. I decided against it because I didn't think it was up to the duty of 33x16 swampers. I went with a steering stabilizer from Rancho. It cures the above mentioned issue just like PS does and does not increase steering effort by any signifigant ammount. As light as the truck is, steering effort is still not that bad.

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GD your not helpfull, all you do is derail posts, and jump to conclusions. your comment about power steering being nessecary doesnt even have anything to do with this conversation. i was simply offering my opinion, based on helping with the install of morganms lift.

didnt you hand your car over to some guy to install your lift for you? maybe you are just ignorant.

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there will be no arguments in my thread thankyou guys.. arch and gd, you both have good points. As for me, I just want to stick with non power steering cause I want to be able to feel how much grip my front wheels have, and also its one less thing taking away crank HP, and gas milage, etc..

 

so ANYWAY, I was thinking I would have to shorten up the steer column to get a better angle. btw, for y'all, the lift is 100% homebrew, so I have no idea what the PK & OZ, 3 and 4 inch kit did

 

Fox, I like your idea but I didnt want to put that much of a strain on that steering dampener by turning it off at some strange angle like that.

 

any other inputs people out there?

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Use a 1995 legacy steering knuckle cut in half in between knuckles and weld in the splice

the 1995 legacy steering knukle is double jointed at both ends

and using this method will allow for smooth turning

 

Hassey

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GD your not helpfull, all you do is derail posts, and jump to conclusions. your comment about power steering being nessecary doesnt even have anything to do with this conversation. i was simply offering my opinion, based on helping with the install of morganms lift.

didnt you hand your car over to some guy to install your lift for you? maybe you are just ignorant.

Ok - your right - I'm wrong. You win.

 

Actually - I have installed several lifts, and redesigned my own after the initial install was done for me.

 

GD

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if i remember correctly. a small part of my column was cut. then a double joint and the lower rod had some other part to it.

 

if you are just using standard steering. (which i don't recommend for hardcore trails) trust me. you guys can argue the tire feel thing all you want. but when you are on boulders not moving and no power steering... good luck... pwr steering is the only way to go if you are going to be doing any hard 4wheeling.

but anyways, back to what i was saying. extend the bottom and use a double joint.

 

mine has 2 joints and a rod in the center for the 8 inch lift.

 

pk ond oz are the exact same brand lifts. but what they do is lengthen the shaft out of the steering rack. but you'll probably have to cut a little for better angle.

 

Semper Fi,

Jared

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Use a 1995 legacy steering knuckle cut in half in between knuckles and weld in the splice

the 1995 legacy steering knukle is double jointed at both ends

and using this method will allow for smooth turning

 

Hassey

And this is why you sir, are still a pioneer in Subaru Engineering :drunk:

( pls dont let this go to your head LOL!_! )

 

 

...after the initial install was done for me.:banana:

 

GD

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arch and GD, both quit it, you guys arent helping my post.

 

So anyway I have heard about the 95 legacy piece before, however, I am a poor college student. I want to do something that I can either build or find in el junke (junkyard). I think I am just gonna do a little more cutting and welding, and maybe replace that rubber piece with a new one thats a bit stronger. my linkage might just need a darn support frame to keep things from twisting wrong. Thanks everyone for Ur input.

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If you wish it, I can look for the legacy bit in the JY's around here. We have had a LOT of them showing lately. '95 isn't out of the question at all. Price..... is it small enough for me to pocket?? heh. We can work something out.... Especially with all the carnage I seem to bring with my posts. Sorry about that.

 

Hit me up with a PM.

 

GD

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Hey RenMan.....

 

I've Built Several 6" , 2 - 8inch , a 10, and a 12 inch lift.....the Key thing in doing it is to have 2 joints...one at each end if possible......On Jarods 8" I think we used 3 Joints, and a Carrier Bearing to keep it all steady and in Line...I know I used 3 and a carrier on My Beast's 12" Lift.....

 

Call me if you need, I'll tell you a few secrets....:)

 

Later, John......

 

P.S. to the others I'd Like to see Who can P*ss into the Wind the Farthest.. :banana: I put my Money on that guy Who has installed several and Re-designed his own after it was installed.... :drunk:

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