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ride height adjustment, torsion bars


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I'm trying to lower the stock suspension on my Gen 1 Brat. The front was easy, cut coils. On the back I am confused by the torsion bar and how one adjusts ride hieght in the rear.

 

The FSM indicates adjusting inner and outer spline ends opposite one another to lift the rear but say's nothing about how to lower it. It seemed to me that if I knocked the torsion bar splines out of engagement, jack up the control arm to where I want it then drive in torsion bars in at that setting. I did that and unlike the 2 inches that I jacked it up, I ended up with only about 1/2 inch drop. Do you really need to adjust both the inner and outer opposite each other?

 

Anyone have any insights or advice.

 

Caboobaroo? I know you just did this not long ago, I'm going for a bit less drop than you but the same basic plan....

 

garner

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so let me get this right you knock out the inner splines while the rear is at no load and then lower the assy to the next spline? if so might go another 1 or 2 splines and see where it puts ya and also remember those bumpstops! they will hinder you and also look for any bind spots on the trailing arm and if you hit the bottom of the travel you might have to notch the trailing arm or whatever is touching to get the right amount of travel (that's coming from someone that has studied up on old vw's cause of wanting to do a baja a long time ago)

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So technically when I drive the torsion bar it actually drives both the inner and outer splines out. The brat is up on jackstands, I put a jack under the trailing arm and push it up to where I want it, then drive the torsion bar back in, perhaps I just need to go alot further than I think so when it drops back, it's where I want it......

 

garner

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Typically the inner and outer splines have different tooth counts, fine and coarse (I know the old VW stuff does), by mixing inner and outer changes you get very small increments of adjustments. With a little math you can calculate the change at the wheel per spline. On the VeeWee stuff the outers are the coarse set, one spline is about 2” lower, if that’s to much you go back up a spline or to on the fine inner set. I’m sure the Subie system works the same.

 

Gary

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as long as the locking bolt on the outside is still tight it will only drive out the inner splines and yeah just move it up a couple splines and it should lower it and if you want to fine tune it then undo the bolt and move the outer splines for a finer adjustment and oh yeah might scribe a reference line on the shaft and housing before you do this so you know how far you have went and also so you know where the stock placement is so that you can adjust it back to the normal ride height later on

 

hey do you have a IM program so if need be we could just chat this thing over?

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as long as the locking bolt on the outside is still tight it will only drive out the inner splines and yeah just move it up a couple splines and it should lower it and if you want to fine tune it then undo the bolt and move the outer splines for a finer adjustment and oh yeah might scribe a reference line on the shaft and housing before you do this so you know how far you have went and also so you know where the stock placement is so that you can adjust it back to the normal ride height later on

 

hey do you have a IM program so if need be we could just chat this thing over?

 

Ok, now it is seeming a little clearer, rotating both inner and outer opposite each other gives more fine/smaller adjustments. So I went one spine on the inside and it droped about 1/2", should just need two or maybe 3 more to get to the 1 1/2" I'm looking for....

 

bajavwsoobnut, no IM, but email @ garner@uoregon.edu.

 

I'm leaving town this weekend so I won't have a chance to tinker with it again until next week, Thanks for the ideas, explanations. Some times the FSM info is just "engrish" to me and more confusing than helpfull....

 

garner

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