harrellee Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 I noticed this when I test drove it and I really didn't mind, I mean what do you expect for $500.00. So the car is really not exclerating that well. You pull out of first and just about have to put it on the floor. And the rest of the gears are reallty not that much better. It basiclly starts to stuter and finally picks up. So my first thought would be one of the timing belts. Just because it feels like a running problem and not fuel delivery or spark. The car is a 1987 GL-10 Wagon with the 1.8L Carburated engine with 135K on the clock. All replys would be helpful and thanks in advance! Larry Oh by the way the turn signals are not working as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReluctantMechanic Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 I bought a 87 GL10 not too many months ago also. Got it apart right now, started with the radiator and then decided to change the belts while I had the radiator out, which then developed into tensioners, idler bearing, seals and now the oil pump.....but that is another story. Mine is an automatic and since I was not interested in performance I have not been concerned about the sluggish acceleration. But after reading some old threads and a little experimental driving it is evident that the engine performs best between 3 and 4,000 rpm or possible higher. With all the vacuum lines I would not be surprised if your problem is related the carb. Try searching the old threads and you will probably find some related topics. There are a lot of very knowledgeable "gear heads" on this board that can help you. RLM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 87 GL-10s should be SPFI, is there a big black oval thing on top of the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 87 GL-10s should be SPFI, is there a big black oval thing on top of the engine? Most were turbo, some were SPFI, none were carbed unless someone swapped a carb motor in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WagonsOnly Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 the only carbed gl-10s were in '85 and '86. There were also a couple of hundred MPFI non-turbo GLs and GL10s sold in '85, there was one in the Marketplace with the red interior package about a year ago (TROGDOR! had it). But '87 and later were all either SPFI or MPFI turbos. 135K is right where a t-belt should start giving you problems--it's 15K overdue for a swap. (Or 75K if it's never been done before.) But it could also be fuel pressure, air filter, a vacuum line, the auto tranny (if so ill-equipped), the clutch...Start with the simple stuff first (t-belts and a tuneup, it probably needs it anyway) and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideyz Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 I like the vacuum leak possibility. Get yourself a can of carb cleaner and spray it on all the vacuum hoses and connections, and the intake manifold areas... with the car idling. If the RPMs change when you hit a certain spot with the carb cleaner, you have a leak. Make sure your air filter and fuel filter are fresh. You could also have an exhaust restriction. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 they still made carbs thru 87 on the ea82. does the car have a vac hos diagram under the hood? is there any odd connectors that used to be mpfi or spfi? does the coil bracket have the ignotor? if there is an absence of those, i bet the car came as a carb for 87, an odd model. if someone swapped in a carb motpr they would have had to swap in the carb fuel pump, and do some modified wirin tho get the pump to work on its own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my toy Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 I bought a 87 GL10 not too many months ago also. Got it apart right now, started with the radiator and then decided to change the belts while I had the radiator out, which then developed into tensioners, idler bearing, seals and now the oil pump.....but that is another story. Mine is an automatic and since I was not interested in performance I have not been concerned about the sluggish acceleration. But after reading some old threads and a little experimental driving it is evident that the engine performs best between 3 and 4,000 rpm or possible higher. With all the vacuum lines I would not be surprised if your problem is related the carb. Try searching the old threads and you will probably find some related topics. There are a lot of very knowledgeable "gear heads" on this board that can help you. RLM[/QUOTe the electric solinoids on the carb gave me a similar problem can get at napa but exspensive so i took them off removed the spring and needle put soliniod back on ran great still like that today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my toy Posted August 17, 2004 Share Posted August 17, 2004 i had a similar problem with the carb the two electric solinoids on the carb were bad napa had them avaiable but rather exspensive so i took them off and removed the spring and needle put the solinoids back on car still runs great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrellee Posted August 18, 2004 Author Share Posted August 18, 2004 Ok today I removed everything up front and discovered that the timing marks were off. The Timing Mark on the D.S. was facing up and the Timing mark on the P.S. was facing down. So I took the belt off the P.S. and turned the cam to were the timing mark was facing up in line with the notch and refitted the belt. So put everything back together and reset the timing becuase it was obviusly off. The car is still running bad. I am starting to think that there is something going on in the Carb. So any suggestions would be great. I am not a Carb man I have always dealt with fuel injection systems. So Help if you can!!! Thanks in Advance! Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 They were right the first time 'round Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Yup, The two cams are supposed to be 180 deg off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrellee Posted August 19, 2004 Author Share Posted August 19, 2004 Ok so I am a moron! I missed that step. I see that I was suppose to turn the crank shaft 180 degrees before I put the D.S. belt on. So if it were right and that was not the problem what is the next step for fixing this huge loss in power. I know the engine is good I did a compression check this morning and got about 200 lbs per cylinder on the third turn of the starter. So where do I go next? Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozsubie Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Doh, for some reason my browser didn't load all the replies and I was going to mention the belts being right the first time, but looks like you already know that. For the other problem I'd check the choke isn't stuck on for starters. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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